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Would buying a new router get me a new IP address? or would it stay the same?

My Windows 10 desktop PC is currently connected via ethernet cable to my wireless router. What's the best/easiest method to force a new IP address and device ID? Would rebooting my router accomplish this? Would upgrading to Windows 11 give me a new device ID?

If I'm editing 1080p video files in Da Vinci Resolve, will it matter if my files are located on a spinning hard disk or a solid state drive? If so, how much of a difference in speed will I notice with an SSD?

This is helpful, thanks! In terms of reliability, do both brands have around the same reputation?

Hi guys, I need a new 4TB internal HDD for my home PC. I'll mainly be using it to store my local music library (I'm an audiophile so I keep lots of FLAC files), work documents and TV shows/movies. I'm currently looking at either the Seagate Barracuda or the Western Digital Blue. They're both 5400 rpm and SATA 6, so I'm not sure which one is better or what the differences are. The WD Blue is cheaper, so should I just get that? Or are there any other differences I'm not aware of? Thanks!

6GHz has much less range than the other bands though right? So how would it work if I walked outside to the living room and my connection got really weak? Would I be able to automatically switch between bands in order to preserve the strongest signal, or would I have to manual switch to 2.4GHz/5GHz every time I walk into the living room?

I tested it with Speedtest and it was 116 Mbps, but I don't know if that's my actual speed or if it's being capped by Wi-Fi 5.

Hi guys, after many years I'm thinking about finally upgrading from my ISP-provided router (it's a TP-Link Archer C2 with Wi-FiI 5). I mainly use an ethernet cable with my desktop PC, but I figured that I should probably upgrade my router to get faster internet on my phone and laptop. I have a fiber optic broadband connection so I'm pretty sure my current router isn't letting me make use the full internet speed that I'm paying for. I know that Wi-Fi 7 is the latest standard now, but none of my devices (Galaxy S24+, M3 Macbook Pro) can take advantage of it, so I'm wondering if it's even worth going for a Wi-Fi 7 router. My budget is under $200 and my apartment is around 2,000 sq ft (only one floor). Right now I'm looking at these two routers: TP-Link AXE75 - WiFI 6E with Tri-Band support TP-Link BE3600 - WiFi 7, but only supports dual band Which one would be better for my use case? Are there any other options I should be considering? And how much of a real-world speed difference would I notice by upgrading from my ISP-provided Wi-FI 5 router?

Got it. So would I need to go into the BIOS after installing the 2nd kit and apply the XMP profile again? Or would I just be able to plug and play since I"m already using the XMP profile for my current kit which has the exact same specs?

What if the 2 kits have different memory manufacturers? Would that cause an issue?

This is my current RAM that I purchased 2 years ago. It's a 16GB (2x8GB) kit of Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 CL16 memory. The version number is 4.32, and the timings are 16-18-18-36. The full model name is CMK16GX4M2B3200C16. I'm now at the point where 16GB isn't enough for my daily workloads, and I want to upgrade to 32GB. I'm considering just buying this kit which looks identical (besides the color) and adding it to my existing 16GB, but I want to make sure it's actually the same and that the 2 kits will be able to run together perfectly. Can anyone advise on whether or not it's ok to do this, and what steps I should take after installing the new RAM to make sure it works without a problem? My CPU is a Ryzen 5 3600 and my motherboard is a MSI B450 Tomahawk Max.

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I just bought a new Sceptre 1440p monitor and noticed that there are 2 settings on the OSD that control how bright the screen gets - "brightness" and "backlight". Which one should I change and why?

I can't do that because I'm using DisplayPort for Freesync and 144Hz.

The real question is whether Cyberpunk 2077 will support AMD's version of raytracing