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soup

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Posts posted by soup

  1. I would .  Top is three out (two are at 3/4ths as it is running through a radiator) two in so negative pressure.  Bottom is four in (two at 3/4 because they are running through a radiator) 1 out so positive pressure, extra air will leak out any gaps and that perforated panel at the side of the expansion slot covers, rather than sucking air in those same gaps/perforations,. As these are unfiltered dust will be sucked in too (there are those that say positive or negative air pressure makes no difference [EG Carey Hollzman despite his years in the business I do not feel he is not correct on this one]).  And as you either live in a very dusty area or you haven't blown out your rig in months the less dust the better . I do not feel air recirculation (blowing out the back then back in at the top) will be that much of a problem especially if you don't in someway box in the system .

       Overall reccomendation go for scheme two (all in at the top).

     

       TBH getting rid of that dust will do a lot towards you getting better thermals (certainly more than worrying abou which fans should be sucking and which blowing [within reason])

  2. RAID is a Redundant Array of Independant/Inexpensive Disks basically a RAID combines disks to either increase speed or to increase 'safety'

     

    There are several 'types' of RAID 0. 1,  10 etc

    To increase speed what happens is the first half of information is written to the first disk the second part of information is written to the second disk this is called striping and is used in RAID 0.  Although this increases the speed it is very dangerous as if one disk is 'lost' all the data is useless and with two disks the chances of one failing are doubled(ish) .

     

    To make the system safer all data can be written to a second disk (RAID 1) this is called mirroring so if one disk fails all the data is still intact on the other disk. However the storage space availlable versus space on the disks is halved

     

    10) is really just 1 + 0 , much more complicated RAIDs can be built up but they pretty much don't apply to home setups

     

    All this is pretty much rough and ready so check wikipedia and Linus' own video to glean more about RAIDs.

  3. Perhaps the easiest method is to detach the BIOS battery for 10 minutes this should fully restore your BIOS to defaults (remember to set date and time etc properly).

     

    Looks really easy to do on yor notebook

    Ignore his weird accent it is English honest( mind you his English is better than my hoogiemcwhifer)

     

    Good luck.

  4. Most problems can be fixed by 'turning it off and on again', however the circuitry still has 'juice' available to it.  What you should do is switch off then GIVE SUFFICIENT TIME FOR THE CAPACITORS TO DISCHARGE [1] before switching back on.

     

    [1] Obviouslly this won't work with CRTs as they have capacitors that can hold charge for months.

  5. Make sure there is nothing in any of the drives (music CDs, thumb drives anything) set the BIOS so that the one and only drive in the Boot order is that which contains the Windows installation files . 

     

      In the 'old days' when a system tried to boot if it failed it would go into the next item in the boot order but with the advent of ten (see assumptions, more rather than less info please) the system does not run through the boot order in the same way Now the Bios may think it has found a drive, if it discovers any sort of file system, and the system just waits there waiting on something happening.

  6. 1 hour ago, fpo said:

    How does a mac address get assigned? I understand there are a lot, but couldn't 2 different factories accidentally produce the same one? Someone in a later post said it sometimes happens and you can get a new one through a method.

    What is meant to happen is that a block of addresses is assigned by the IEEE to a manufacturer. MAC addresses were initially meant as a unique identifier but the method to spoof MACs being relatively easy, and manufacturers reusing MACs [1] has meant sometimes machines on the SAME network subnet have  two devices with the same MAC and everything goes to 'a big ball of chalk' (this happens more often than some administrators  like)

     

    A MAC address is of the form 10-C3-7B-CF-B2

     

    [1] When manufacturers deliberately re use MACs  they try to send the items to a vastly different location so there is a reduced chance of them being on the same network as the previous item with the same MAC

  7. Each and every IP addy (of the form 139.130.221.221 ) is made up of 4 octets each of which can have 257 values so 257X257X257X257 which is around 4000 million, individual addys.  But there is also something known as NAT (Network address Translation)  whereby as far as the ISP is concerned all computers on a network have one IP and every computer on that network is assigned (by the router or... an IP in the range 192.168.???.??? or 10.???.???.???. )  To combat the very thing you are thinking about this system IPv4 is being replaced by IPv6 (coming soon .  It has been coming soon for at least the last ten years) some systems are IPv6 ready and allready have IPv6 addresses but this is not yet in the public consciousness.  This gives someting like 3 X 1038 adresses surely enoung for a planet with 'only' 7 x 109 people.

      Mac addresses are 48 bits long so there is no prospect of us running out of MAC addresses any time soon.

      Obviously this is very simplified but the basic ideas are there.

  8. As you can't move to colder climes you will just have to live with fans etc. Cases help direct airflow to where it is required so quite often the airflow is actually 'better' with the side closed than open

    Never have more fan(s area) out than in .  If anything have more in than out, gives positive pressure which helps restrict dust ingress to the machine.

    The fans in will already be moving less air as it is blowing air through the radiator.

    Two in through a radiator does not equal the two exhaust so perhaps the two in through the radiator+one unrestricted intake in against the two fans working as exhaust.

     

     

  9. Seems others have been here before and after much research have found all the Dodge bodies for the Slash are Rams and all the Charger bodies are for monster trucks unless you can find something else that floats your boat it looks like the self vacform route is the way to go.

     

     Don't think this is really the type of forum you want, it is more of a Computer/gaming type forum.

    Hobby electronics (in this case) mean electronics as a hobby rather than using electronics in a hobby

  10. If the fans are blowing through radiators or hard drive brackets or that sort of thing then use static pressure fans if the flow from them is basically unimpeded then use airflow fans.  But realistically either will do in a pinch, though not optimal, if you can only get RGB in that size/type of fan in an SP one there will be no REAL harm in using it when really theory dictates an air flow one.

  11. Availlable from Amazon.

    https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Brass-Motherboard-Standoffs-Computer/dp/B00213KL5I/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1484874736&sr=8-11&keywords=standoffs

     

    they are also availlable from your local electronics store, they are quite the staple so I would imagine that any computer store would carry them .  I am in Scotland so I do not know what stores are availlable to you but I have seen s few videos were they talk of getting a CPU from Best Buy so would imagine that store also carries standoffs, take a loose one with you to ensure you get the right length, thread etc.  The store I would use here (if for some reason I couldn't wait on Amazon delivering is Maplins

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/motherboard-screwnut-standoff-50-pack-a05bj

    stand-offs are not 'as rare as rocking horse droppings' so should be relatively easy to find.

  12. 1 minute ago, Godlygamer23 said:

    It depends on where they're located. If they're nowhere near the board, it's fine.

    I meant under the board, obviously if they are the outer ones for E-ATX and your using a MiniATX board, edge ones don't matter

  13. You will have an extremely difficult time removing standoffs by hand . Can you 'borrow ' pliers or a small adjustable wrench/spanner, perhaps a screwdriver with many optional bits sporting a nut driver.

     

    Do NOT be tempted to run the system with the standoffs that are not being used in place however generally it is not the end of the world if not all positions have a stand off in them.

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