I have a spare key for you guys Please gimme 5 stars and a like (not needed)
Here are the instructions:
Blood Dragon – Ubishop Download
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Step 1: Go to http://shop.ubi.com/FC3BDAMD, Log in or create an account
Step 2: Add Far Cry 3® Blood Dragon to the shopping cart
Step 3: Click on "Click here to redeem link'
Step 4: Enter the game code below and click apply
Step 5: Click the checkout button and fill out the necessary fields.
Step 6: Click on submit order then click on begin download
9guqd26gj <----- code for coupon in shop to get it free
When the computer is starting and you get the black screen with the flashing cursor,spam the F8 key. This will take you to a menu where you will tell windows to start in safe mode. Once in safe mode and booted into windows, open the start button in the bottom left and in the search bar type run and hit enter. In the window that pops up delete whatever is in the box (if there is anything at all), type cmd and press enter. From there, to change a user's password, type:
net user user_name /domain (replace user_name with your user name)
When you are prompted to type a password for the user, type the new password, not the existing password. After you type the new password, the system prompts you to retype the password to confirm. The password is now changed.
Alternatively, you can type the following command:
net user user_name new_password (replace user_name with your user name and new_password with your new password)
Now, DON'T forget it this time!
Table of Contents Update One Here Update Two Here Update Three Here Update Four Here Update Five Here Update Six Here Update Seven Here Update Eight Here Update Nine Here Update Ten Here Update Eleven Here Update Twelve Here Update Thirteen Here Update Fourteen Here
So it begins!!
For those who wish to have a look at the sketchup model for this desk,
I have uploaded it to here
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97695353/desk%20final.skp
You can download Sketchup here if you do not have it
http://www.sketchup.com/download
Conceptual design
Here is what the timber looks like. Is native NZ Rimu. Please excuse the end one with the bird poo, that will be sanded off in due course. bloody sparrows in the shed >.<
Cut some of the pieces to length of 650, after everything has been glued together will refine the length to 600
Tools for the job. PVA glue, biscuits. annnd a... Biscuit cutter? (who cares about its real name biscuit cutter sounds cool)
As you can see, there is some light inbetween the boards, so a nice plane on areas will help close those gaps up
Some fellow putting the biscuits into their grooves after a nice layers of PVA Glue.
All clamped up, with some weights on the timber to stop it from setting wonky This here is ONE side to the draw unit
Had to take the pieces to school and use the planer to make the edges all smooth, and to take any imperfections out
Here are the two horizontal supports for the desk, which the one on the left will be at the front as it has the toe bit on it. Sanded down with lovely wet and dry sandpaper to give it a baby smooth finish
This is what happens once you get a nice plane
drilling out the holes for the dowels to go in, 1mm larger then the dowel so that the glue sets better
Once all holes drilled its time to start gluing them in place, and setting everything up to be cramped together
Now she is cramped, the draw body is setting, and now it is time to make the draws them selves
Here are the draw fronts cut a little oversize just to be safe, not sanded or thicknessed or anything yet
My small wee thicknesser working its magic on the draw fronts, boy does this puppy make a mess!!
currently have two racks installed at the moment, start from the bottom and work your way up. Doing one at a time to make sure everything fits perfectly on the first time!
These are the draw sides, just some MDF which I will be painting matte black. Think it is somewhere around 12-13mm thick.
The box of which the draws will be just sitting there for a test fit, have to make sure that it sits on the sliders properly
And here are the sides and front/back for the two bottom draws going to school to get everything cut to length properly and use that lovely big planner (note to self, buy one of those big planners as they make life so much easier)
Bruce one of the pet lambs thought he would come up and see what's up. Was more interested in sticking his head in boxes around the shed though lol
Since the thicknesser I used at school had a few chips in the blade (GRRR) spent about an hour belt sanding the sides to make all the imperfections go away, belt was a 'used' 120 grit piece
Time to smoothen the sides up and then further make sure there are no ridges because you can certainly feel if there is anything wrong with a certain spot if the rest is smooth! This was I think around a 80 grit on a circular sander
After happy with the piece of timber, it was time to move to the 240 grit wet/dry. After 5 minutes of nice, slow and steady sanding. I can assure you that there was much pleasure in rubbing my hand around the timber... my GOD it is smooth.
So this is what it looked like before sanding
And this is what a few minutes of 240 grit wet/dry does
All the pieces have now been sanded down to get rid of all imperfections that I could
Sam and I discussing what to do next.
GOOD MAN SAM! That's right, have to have the aluminium rods for the 'files' to sit on
All cut to length and the ends filed down
All is well
both ends in, and the file fits. Looks like my measuring was correct
Sam now bored and reflecting on life as it is
Predrilling holes for the sides to be nailed to the Side of the FRONT/BACK
Both sides done
Add a line of glue for extra support
Straightened it up and nailed em all in!
Now to do the next side
Can't forget to add the rails in when putting the other side on!!
Predrilled the holes and put the nails in ready to smack em along the bottom.
Here is the draw unit in some decent light Still have to get the draw front on too.
Time to screw the rail sliders for the draw on. Firstly I pre drilled the hole with a very small drill bit, just to prevent any cracking of the MDF then in the screw goes!
Here is the bottom draw front, and after some 360 wet/dry. You can see the shiny'ness, it is so smooth
Since I cannot do any more draws till I get some more custom wood, thought I would be useful and get the other sides legs sorted. So found some nice pieces of more Rimu, which will be thicknessed down a bit, and will router the edges too
Ran them through the thicknesser, got hit in the face by a few flying chips. Lucky my safety glasses protected my eyes
So now both pieces are lovely and square/flat/straight
Time to clean up the mess made by thicknessing...
Clamping a bead across the front piece and the draw, to make sure that everything is lined up
All lined up, happy with it. Now let us screw it on!
The final result
Time to sort out the spacing between each draw, found the right packers.
Everything has been cut up to length and sanded down for the middle draw unit.
Let us commence the building!
Time to get the runners aligned and sorted too...
Getting the spacing sorted with the new packer, and then clamping and screwing again
Same as before of how to do the attach the front piece to the box
Only one left to do!
Here is my beast and the box of bits
Time to router the edges of the legs! Here are the two bits that I will be using (note: the big one is for the legs, the small one is for a bevel around the outside of the draws)
I hadn't used a router before, so got mum to show me how to do it,
We were left with a good result, nice smooth. lovely.
Now time to sand the edges down so that there isn't a "step" from the flat piece to the curve (above pic)
Routered the edge of the LEFT and RIGHT side of all the draws and the BOTTOM of the bottom draw.
Once I finished sanding the saw marks, the curve had kinda disappeared, no problems. Will re-router it again
The timber I am using is recycled stuff, so there are a few nail holes here and there. Clever trick, use the saw dust of the rimu that has been collected in the table saw bin and mix with PVA glue to make a nice formula that will fill in the holes, dry hard. and then be the most unnoticeable filler!
After the pva had dried, this is what we were left with
The chisel then got it off to a nice smooth finish that will get sanded down, it might not look perfect, but you can notice a hole in a timber from a mile away
Now it's time to get a piece of wood sorted for the side rail connecting the two legs together
Might as well get the back runner cut while I am here!
yep. I have 2 248h panels which I recommend you get instead because the 247h has horrible ghosting.
The 247h is actually a 23.6 inch monitor and has an ugly large bezel.
The 248h panels are great if you are on a budget but eventually I had to upgrade :/