Jump to content

ind3x

Member
  • Posts

    652
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denmark
  • Member title
    500+ posts and still no profile pic.

System

  • CPU
    i5 4690k
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97 Gaming 5
  • RAM
    HyperX 16GB @2400MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4GB
  • Case
    Corsair Graphite 230t
  • Storage
    256 GB Crucial mx 100 (random harddrives for storage)
  • PSU
    Evga Supernova G2 750W
  • Display(s)
    24" acer 1080p (primary) 21" benq t2210HD (secondary)
  • Cooling
    Corsair h80i
  • Keyboard
    CM Quickfire TK (Cherry Mx blues)
  • Mouse
    Logitech mx518
  • Sound
    Logitech z506
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

921 profile views
  1. Rig name: I ain't gonna name this CPU: i5 4690k @ 4.4GHz GPU: MSI GTX 970 @ stock RAM: 2x8GB DDR3 1600MHz
  2. i would go 390, despite owning the 970, due to VRAM. The 3.5GB are not a problem, it's only when i hit 3.8GB i see a performance decrease in GTA V, and this is only due to my two monitors
  3. 1 partition, use it all for windows and programs/games/whatever I don't see that point at all to partition your drive for any reason?
  4. My two cents: I've chosen between brown and blues, and i prefer the blues. The difference between them are not that big, but i preferred the blues, due to the tactile click, on top of the tactile sound. Both giving me good sense of what i'm typing. In a blind test, i would have a hard time telling the difference between blues and browns if i couldn't hear. So if you don't feel like having a noisy keyboard, and stand between browns/blues, definitely go for browns. If you want the clicky sounds, go with the blues. I can't comment on reds etc. as i haven't spent much time with them. But reds are linear, and have a smaller travel time, so they are in theory faster for gaming. But the early actuation point makes it a lot easier to spam the reds, than the tactile switches.
  5. That's why some fans come with rubber mounts, basically a rubber 'screw' which isolates vibrations. (Noctua and others have these)
  6. I would just do 1x200mm in front, 1x140mm in back, face CPU cooler fan backwards, pushing air towards exhaust. Passive exhaust top.
  7. If you just need to swap the mobo+psu+CPU you should be able to get an i5 or i7
  8. Besides the sending mail is fake, the link they want you to click doesn't show the url, as usually done in trustworthy mails (eg. itunes.com/account)
  9. Or buy a cable and wire it up properly?
  10. Seems realistic, a lit screen does use a lot of power compared to standby if your brightness is up. Also, the percentage of battery is not always accurate. I've seen my bar go from 15% to 5% in 30 seconds.
  11. ind3x

    arduino code

    It doesn't seem like you're using the pixel code wrong, but try organizing your if and while statements with proper indents (tab) so it's easier to read your code. And then check for infinite loops you can get stuck in. (like while( x > 5) {something something x++;} this will loop forever and get stuck)
  12. ind3x

    arduino code

    Could you post what part of the program you already have written? And give a link to the reference of the LED library?
  13. i've had similar weird behavour, but only when my CPU was OC'ed. The thing i don't get is, an OC from 3.5 to 3.6GHz causes random crashes as often as my stable (win7) OC at 4.5GHz. for now i'm running at stock speeds, but i might seen check if an update has fixed the issue, as there's no point in running stock speeds on a 4690k
  14. Trolls in LoL is why i quit more than a year ago. I've played since, confirming that the LoL community is really bad...
  15. Yes, but is it filtered? Otherwise it will blow dust straight into that cooler, which is harder to clean if it's closed. If you have any bottom front fan mounts, i would fill these first if the bottom one isn't filtered.
×