Meowster

I recently got an Asus ZenBook Duo 14 and its been great so far. But a few days ago, I plugged in my laptop to my monitor (Samsung M5 smart monitor 27'') and went to change the resolution settings, the HDR option was not available because "the display doesn't have a HDR certificate" or something along those lines. Does anyone know what this is? I also tried the laptop with my TV (Samsung QN85A 55'') and it said the same thing. I know definitely that both displays are compatible with HDR becuase I use them with a PS5 and a gaming PC and both allow HDR.

First time posting in this thread, hope this fits under the right category. At work, we had these ViewSonic CDE5520 55 inch 4K displays and long story short in around December 2021 the display panels were damaged due to a water sprinkler malfunction. I have now got 2 of these motherboards (see the picture) which still work even though water got inside the display. Unfortunately, the place I work had to throw these alright, but before we did I took out the boards to maybe find a use for them. Is it possible to do anything with this motherboard? I looked at the specs and it looks like it has a 1.4GHz quad core ARM processor with a Mali G51-MP2 graphics core (I'm just assuming here but it sounds like it might be a Mediatek or Amlogic chip). This display apparently runs on Android 8, which I can confirm when the display was last used. I sadly didn't take note of the panel, but I hope someone can help me out here and help me hook up a display to this thing?

On the right side, I've taken a photo of what I assume is the power connector, which is labelled POWER and has some voltages written near it on the silkscreen. Would I be able to hook up a few power supplies here aswell? 

It would be nice to repurpose these boards from going to landfill. 

On the pictures, I've shown all the usable connectors, I also assume L+ L- and R+ R- must be the left and right speaker channels

I recently picked up myself a Samsung Galaxy S6 in gold which lookes very nice. When I picked it up from the seller on facebook marketplace, I noticed the back glass was bulging because the battery had expanded. No big deal, got a new battery for £7.50, installed it and moved on. The main issue is that it has no AMOLED panel or digitizer. I am confident the device works, as it reports as "Fast charging" on my power bank and the phone gets hot whilst charging, and I can even feel it warming up after a while after holding down the power button. My only main concern is that there may be a fault. Look, I'm no expert on older Samsung phones but my S6 isnt vibrating, showing the blue/teal LED upon startup and the capacitive home/back buttons aren't lighting up either. Is this all happening due to the missing display?

And also, I have flashed the latest official Android 7 ROM for it and it appeared to pass according to odin. So my question is, can I somehow test this device without a screen before I make an expensive purchase of an official AMOLED for nearly £70? I do believe the phone should be at the "Welcome" screen where you select the languages and all that stuff, but can't be 100% sure

On 5/15/2022 at 6:30 PM, Falcon1986 said:

Have you tried searching online support forums to see what others have used? Since the manufacturer is no longer available, you'll have to rely on what others with similar devices have done. There's not much we can do to help if you don't share the exact make/model.

 

If the cards you've found are inexpensive, it might be worth it to just try one. Keep in mind that some OEMs will lock hardware support through the BIOS to specific brands.

This response is kinda late but thank you. In the end I purchased a Sony branded card which was supposed to go in some Vaio notebook but it ended up working just fine, had some troubles as the drivers from the manufacturer (which were actually on some german FTP) were all in Chinese but eventually got there.

I hope this fits under the right category, technically its still networking? Anyways, I have this rugged tablet thing that runs Windows Embedded 7 standard made by a company which apparently no longer exists. It works fine and I have upgraded it a few times now. However, I would like WWAN to work, since it says it supports it. I got a brochure for it online, and it says that the device will support a WWAN card with a Qualcomm Gobi 3000 chipset. I have fond various models online, and the connector is the same but they are all branded eg. HP, Sony, Dell etc. Will a branded card work with my tablet? Or do I need to find a non branded one, such as a Sierra one perhaps?

The other day I found my old Google Pixel XL 32GB. One time a few years ago, a system update was installing, and the phone rebooted and never came back to life. I can still "feel" the device working as it gets warm when plugging into a charger and once the battery charges, the little light on my USB phone charger thing turns off indicating the battery is charged, so its not completwly dead. But there are no lights or display activity when "turned on". I plugged it into my computer and found it does actually technically show up in device manager under the name Qualcomm HSLOADER or something like that, can't remember exactly. Is there any hope I can maybe reflash the operating system on it from the beginning? Have had a look on other forums but none of them are actually well written and unclear instructions are given.

Is there still any hope for my Pixel XL? It would be nice to have it working again...

My uncle had given me his old Surface RT whilst he was clearing out. Its still quite useful to me, I only use it for checking emails and typing a few lines of text in Word. However, the battery is starting to expand a little bit, I noticed this when I opened it up when I was replacing the charging port. Is it possible to buy a replacement for this device? I looked extensively but I couldn't find any replacements for it, at least from the UK. Could anyone possibly let me know if one is available? I'd love to continue using this device if a replacement battery is out there

38 minutes ago, BondiBlue said:

That's not too bad at all for a G5. If the exterior of the case is in good shape (especially the bottom feet - they're super easy to destroy if they're dropped, see the video below for a good example of one destroyed in shipping) then you shouldn't have any issues getting a decent price for it. I can't give an exact estimate as I'm not in the UK and don't know how the vintage Mac market is doing over there right now, but if I was selling that machine here in the US I'd ask $250 minimum. 

 

And it's actually not too uncommon to see weird RAM configurations in those machines. I picked up a 2006 Mac Pro 1,1 earlier this year, and it has 9GB of RAM. I have no clue why the original owner didn't pull the stock 1GB out, but they didn't. 

That's still not a bad machine. 8 core Xeon W, 8GB Vega 56, 5K display, 32GB of RAM, etc. I'd love to get my hands on one of those in about a decade to see how well they hold up. 

That's a sweet machine. I've always wanted to get my hands on a Quad, but every time I find one for sale locally it's either immediately gone, it has major functional issues, or it has major cosmetic issues. I managed to get a single 1.8GHz G5 system for free a few months ago, and it's in mint condition. I think the actual highlight of that deal was the free 23" Cinema HD Display that came along with it. 

 

Here's the video of the G5 that was destroyed in shipping. It's a sad fate for many of these cheese grater G5s and Mac Pros. 

 

Thanks for that, it really helped me out a bit to decide on a price. Mine is in almost perfect condition, it stands straight and the feet don't seem bent anywhere. I'd say there might be a shortage of these in the UK at this moment, since coming across any vintage Macs or in general any old computers can seem quite difficult here, most the stuff I buy for my collection is either imported from other countries, most coming from the US but some are from Sweden, Australia etc. I think I might set up an eBay auction on it since these machines, like I said are quite uncommon in the UK since the sad truth is, many companies and individuals throw away or dump their old computers/tech. It makes me sad how these poor old machines are being thrown away more commonly

8 minutes ago, BondiBlue said:

Those are very nice machines, but they're only worth so much to a collector who really wants one. Here in the States a stock G5 Quad would go for anywhere between $100-$250 depending on specs and whether or not they have any issues, such as the cooling system. What are the specs of your G5?

 

If you can find the right buyer they're worth a decent bit more than that, but it all depends on the specs, your location, and the buyer. 

 

Seriously?! That computer originally sold for no less than £4,899, so getting one of those in any kind of a lot deal is incredible. It didn't age particularly well, but it's still an incredibly nice computer for what it is. Nice find!

Indeed the joblot was a great find! If I can remember correctly, my machine is equipped with 2 250GB hard drives, a GeForce 6600, 4.5GB of RAM (weird configuration I know) and I've given the whole chassis an inside to out clean by stripping nearly everything down. 

If you're curious about the iMac Pro specifications, I think it was the base model 2017 one, with no additional changes to the hardware.

EDIT: Oops, forgot the CPU. Its the dual CPU 2.5GHz variant, resulting in a total of 4 usable cores

Just now, Mel0nMan said:

That could be on the higher side of prices I suggested, seems like great condition. 

I might be able to add some photos of it to the post later, but can't do that now as still at work and don't have the pictures on hand haha

3 minutes ago, Mel0nMan said:

Well, unserviced it'd probably be a few hundred, like $400-600 depending on local market. If you've replaced the coolant and that sort of thing it would be a bit more. 

I have opened up the LCS one time, and to my surprise there was no leaks or crystals forming yet. Its quiet too so that aspect of the Mac is fine in my opinion

In mid 2020, I managed to purchase a HUGE Apple device joblot, which contained many older model MacBooks, iBooks, PowerMacs and a few iMacs (One iMac Pro!) and a couple of iPads. This was an excellent purchase, especially for £250, I'm not joking. The owner was nice and all and agreed to take down the price to £200. This was the best deal of the year for me.

Anyways, in the joblot was a PowerMac G5. Now, I'm no expert on PowerMacs but I had a suspicion that this may have been the liquid cooled variant due to the odd power connector shape. Turns out, I was right and it turned out to be the PowerMac G5 Quad 2.5GHz. 

I've had quite a bit of fun with it throughout the 2 years, and even took it to a local retro tech nerdy meetup thing. But now, my time with it has ended and I'd like to let someone else mess around with this cool machine. Can anyone suggest a price for this lovely beast? I did extensive eBay searching and sadly didn't find a single one on the UK eBay page. 

On 12/28/2021 at 11:33 PM, adarw said:

i would install a light linux distro. 

That is something I did consider, and I definitely will try that out at some point, but I'll first enjoy the ChromeOS experience without google play for now. I can seem to live without it now that I customised it to my liking some more 

The title pretty much sums up my question. I had recently acquired a free Acer C720 Chromebook, which has now been updated to the latest OS it can handle: Chrome OS 76.0.3809.136. I am wondering, is it possible to get the play store running on this little thing? Not a big deal if I can't, but this machine is just so nice and compact and I have kind of become attached to it throughout my short ownership of it. 

19 hours ago, OhioYJ said:

Maybe. So you can usually use Odin to flash factory firmware. So if Android 8 firmware is available for this device then it maybe possible. 

 

So here is the catch. I have a limited number of Samsung devices but I've run into this situation before. In my situations the Bootloader versions are checked before flashing, if it's older it won't flash. The good news is it doesn't always change. In my case I've rolled back from Android 11 to Android 10, I just had to find an Android 10 firmware right before 11. An early version of 10 on that device had an older bootloader and prevented me from downgrading. 

 

So your best bet is to find the newest version of Android 8 you can and see if Odin will let you. For this can of recovery procedure I would use Odin and not Heimdall. 

I've found an Android 8 build which was the last 8 build before 9 rolled out for the device. Unfortunately, it didn't work. I got an error on the phone which said: sw rev check fail bootloader device 10 binary 1. Has the bootloader updated itself? And also, would a custom recovery like TWRP make a difference?

I've accquired a Samsung J2 Pure from a friend which permanently moved from the US to the UK and gave me his old phone which wasn't needed here. When I looked at the specs this phone looks identical to the J2 Core, however the J2 Pure can upgrade up to Android 9 and has Knox. Is it possible to downgrade Android 9 with OneUI 1.5 to Android 8 with Samsung Experience? This phone feels really slugish on 9 and I always loved the Samsung Experience UI. The phone is currently running Android 9 (J260AZTUSBBUA1) and has the January 1 2021 security patch.

Any help is appreciated, I am responsible for any damages that may occur to the damage, and I don't really care much about it since all it will do is be my backup phone (Yes, its unlocked from Cricket)

I purchased 10 "2GB" memory sticks from my local hardware shop. I installed ChipGenius on my computer and it says the actual NAND chip is a "Micron - 1CE/Single Channel [MLC] 4GB" but Windows only reads the USB stick as 2GB. Is there a way to make it use the full 4GB? (I know it wont be exactly 4GB but anything would be better than only ~1.87GB)

10 hours ago, xAcid9 said:

Try Manjaro KDE.  https://manjaro.org/download/

 

Okay, so I downloaded the ISO and it booted. But it is stuck at 800x600 on the PC but it works perfectly on my ThinkPad. Is this some driver issue perhaps? And I'm connected via DVI on the PC

1 hour ago, xAcid9 said:

What software you use to create the bootable USB?
Try https://www.balena.io/etcher/

I used Rufus, then I also tried your suggestion. But still nothing

I am making the switch to Linux at work, and I got told I can pick any distro I like. I have been browsing the internet for good distros and a friend recommended me Pop_OS! I downloaded the ISO, burned it to a flash drive, booted to it and it did not work. It says 'you need to load the kernel first, press any key to exit'. This is as far as I have got. The computer is one I built myself with an Asus Prime H410M-A and a Pentium Gold G6400. It should run, but it doesn't.

Can someone explain to me what is happening here? It also won't boot on my ThinkPad X1 Carbon either

32 minutes ago, Moonzy said:

Hmm... Given it's a used GPU, the previous owner might've treated it harshly and we would be none the wiser, especially if he's selling two 1070, high probability that he's a miner(?)

 

I bought mine new because of these reasons, I can't tell how harshly it's been treated before

He told me he used them in SLI, I can confirm as I went to collect them in person. I doubt he was a miner as he had a full RGB rig with I think it was a i7 7th gen something. He looked like just a gamer, however I don't know if he ever actually cleaned the GPUs and/or his system

4 minutes ago, Moonzy said:

Ah, I'm using an rm850x until recently I added HX1000 and AX1600i to the mix

So it's not your PSU, probably (good PSU can still be bad, depending on luck)

 

Truth be told, I was an idiot miner for about a year, and mined on high power consumption

But iirc I limited it to 90% or 80% in fear of it failing, so maybe that helped

 

Nonetheless, I still find it odd that you manage to fry two GPU (which I assume is 100% of your mining GPU) within a year, and I would like to find out why, still

Even at stock settings a card shouldn't fail like that in ANY load within that timeframe

Perhaps it's the riser you used? Or were the GPU stacked closely in a enclosed casing in pcie slots?

I would also really like to know the same. The PCIe riser I used was a generic one I found on Amazon, I doubt it was the riser as now its working in one of the servers at work. As for the GPUs, they were in an open mining case with plenty of ventilation, and the GPUs were spaced apart too

1 minute ago, tikker said:

No, it's just another load to the GPU. 100% just means the GPU is working as hard as it can and isn't much different from seeing 100% GPU in games. What you do want to keep an eye on are core and memory temperatures (especially the latter for the 3000 series).

 

The difficulty here is that you don't know it was mining that caused this, because you don't know whether they wouldn't have died after 5 months from that day anyway. You wouldn't say "gaming killed my GPU" if it dies 5 months after you started gaming and I don't think we have seen 1070s dying left and right from mining. That would have made the news.

I think it may have been the mining, as the GPUs were used for gaming before for a few years and the previous owner never had any issues. However undervolting probably would have prevented the issue? I'm not too sure

15 minutes ago, Moonzy said:

May I know what PSU you used, and did you learn about undervolting before or after they died?

 

None of my GPU died, I've been mining almost non-stop since 2017, my oldest GPU now is 2018 so about 2 years non-stop

 

My 2070super have mined more than its worth, probably three fold or more by now(?)

Three of my 3060ti that I acquired in December have already mined their worth last month, perhaps there's something off with your configuration if majority of other people are making money from it while you're losing money? I'm interested to know why so I can avoid it

The GPU I was using was a Corsair RM1000x which was left over from a project I never completed. Maybe it was just my bad luck, but the hardware I was using just kept failing eg. fried out RAM stick, motherboard failed. I doubt it was the mining fault however I managed to RMA all the components. Since then I haven't mined again on GPUs, but I do have 2 Antminer S9i in my garage running occasionally. 

And for the undervolting, I learnt about that soon after they died

20 minutes ago, Moonzy said:

What are we comparing it with here?

Idling? Turned off? Gaming load?

 

Any load on your GPU increases the chances of it going bad

But if you tuned your GPU right (lowering power limit, boost up fan speed to cool the VRAM chips which aren't temperature monitored and is hit the hardest in mining ETH) then the risk of it failing is lower than if your GPU is running at stock settings in gaming, or any other load

 

A well tuned GPU, paired with a decent PSU, shouldn't have much risk, other than fans wearing out, which is an easy replacement through warranty or diy solutions

 

 

Can you elaborate as to why?

With my experiences in mining, the card has a shorter lifespan and I'm talking months until it dies. I had a small 2 GPU mining rig with 2x GTX 1070s and theyy both died within 5 months of 24/7 mining. I learnt that you need to undervolt the card slightly for better lifespan.

I'm not a huge fan of miners and I mostly quit mining due to just not being worth it and I was spending more on hardware than actually making the money