Forge

fwiw, the 5 pin power switch/LED header is probably the same as for Optiplex 7010, so it should be easy to eliminate the F1 message for the power switch.
 
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/925354-optiplex-7010-power-pinout/

 
The Optiplex 990 is virtually identical to the 790, so this may help with the 34 pin Front I/O connector pinout:
 
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/960047-dell-optiex-790-front-panel-pinouts/
 
The above link shows this pinout.  Whether the pinout is actually correct, I cannot say.

 
If it is anything like the Optiplex 7010, where the above image seems to show two 'Common' pins next to the audio pins, it wouldn't surprise me if one of them was in fact the 'Front I/O cable detect' pin and not 'Common'.
 
The pinout for the shorter 20 pin Front I/O connector on later Optiplex 7010 is here and may better explain what I'm going on about.
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/987783-optiplex-70109010-front-io-panel-pinout/
 
If you get the wiring wrong, then yes there is a risk of damage.  eg. miswiring the USB2 ports could lead to damage to the USB ports on the motherboard or to any attached USB2 device.

Go into configure -> Temperatures and find your CPU cores and Graphics Cards. Change "warning" to something like 100C. This is the temperature at which your fan profiles are ignored and all fans spin at 100%. By default this is set to 50C for some reason.
 
Also a note about Asus motherboards: for some reason no 4 pin can labelled "opt" (ie opt_1, opt_2...) seems to be controllable. I have only tried this on a Rampage IV Extreme and a Rampage IV Black Edition but it holds true for both. Every other 4-pin is controlled just fine.

Update 
(Highly requested) Added a script next to the program to setup a scheduled task to run FanControl at startup Added a "hide fan speed cards" checkbox in the left menu Migrated back from LibreHardwareMonitor to OpenHardwareMonitor, the original project, as support is seemingly back The fan speed cards are irrelevant once all control cards are matched, so I added an option to hide them to reduce clutter.
As for the lib switch I'm not too sure yet, I can easily switch back if needed, we'll see how it goes.
The startup script will work with any version of FanControl you are running.
 
Cheers!

it's for compatibility... because a blower card is a self contained system that does not rely on case fans to push out the heat
that way nvidia and AMD are making sure that those reference design cards can be used in as much situations as possible.

like they said, their target is to release the horsepower and the manufacturers, their coolers

There are quite a few reasons:
 
1. It's highly "compatible" with most cases... especially in OEM ones where airflow is minimal and you need to dump out the hot air.
2. Cost.
3. It's basically tradition at this point.

I only heard of colorful (I live in Korea), so I would recommend buying that.

They are not fake/scams
 
There is official Colorful store so i'm sure that these cards are not fake.
 
There are feedbacks of 750ti and 1 tested it and its 750ti, also if its fake i can easy use despute and get money back so there is no problem about scam

Colorful is a bit like Biostar. Not the best brands but good enough
 
Never heard of Veineda, even among my Chinese friends who are PC enthusiasts
 
Yeston is much smaller than Colorful. Imagine XFX that's even smaller, makes Nvidia only cards and dont have the fame.
 
I'd say Colorful is the best bet for customer service.
Please stop quoting all the pictures. Hard to read, especially to those on a phone.

980ti (SLI no less) works fine on my much older x58 board, Z77 should be a cake walk!

May not be relevant but I have been working on a vertical mount for my machine, if you want something DIY.  It is unpainted here but requires no modification to my case.  I just mounted to some available holes and I extended the mount back an inch or two to give space for airflow.  I didn't want to cut the case.  Did require a router to make room for connectors.  I'm more comfortable working with wood.

I would really like to thank the OP for posting his build. It informed me of the possibility of adding a new fan (I ended up cutting the back fan wires and splitting them so I could power both) by removing the HDD frame, but the PWM information was precious!
This computer was going to the trash bin (really) according to my (not-very-smart) former boss, so I took it, dumped the HDD, and put in a new Crucial 240GB SSD. At the time I was short on cash so simply updated the graphics with a Zotac GT 1030 - two years of happy potato gaming ^^
From the original Dell build I updated the BIOS, recently added more RAM for a total of 16GB, installed an i7-2600, and replaced the PSU with one that could provide more than 146W on the 3.3 and 5V rails (following the advice from user Speedstep on the official Dell forums).
Now I'm just waiting for a GTX 1080 to arrive  (let's see if I can still access the SATA connectors!)
Thanks, asand1 !
 

I used an aviation snips (straight) (from Milwaukee) - it's like super strong scissors. Plus a thin tipped plier to bend the metal edges a bit in order to keep cutting.
 

Hello guys today i bought palit gt 1030 and i oc'd it. The results were... how to say it, perfect. 270 mhz on core and 651 on memory (i think i can oc it even more). I gained 7,8 fps on AAA games. How does other pascal gpu oc

I was wrong. The MSI 980 Ti Lightning is 330mm long: https://eu.msi.com/Graphics-card/GTX-980-Ti-LIGHTNING.html#hero-specification
 
Can't help but feel that people who buy these things need to compensate for something... Low framerates, probably.

Zotac GTX 980 Ti Amp Extreme at 328.2mm: https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/gtx-980-ti-amp-extreme#spec
 
You won't find one longer than that.

Rig name: Saphira
CPU: Intel i7 2600 @3.4GHz
GPU: Asus Strix Nvidia GTX1050Ti OC
RAM: 16GB ddr3 @1333MHz
Score: 3.5
(all in all, very pleased)

Drilled the rivits I believe.

Before you installed the front fan, how did you get rid of the HDD metal frame? Did you hammer it out?