thermalgoop

More YouTuber & Business™ news than strictly tech, but: Summary Earlier today, Louis Rossmann discussed a couple of in-depth reports alleging fraud on Google's part concerning their AdSense service. Specifically, the reports state that Google grossly misrepresented the environments in which an advertisement was served through their platform. Advertisement space that was sold as being exclusively on-platform YouTube video ads was routinely deployed as banner ads on third-party websites with minimal target interaction. If proven true once the lawyers weigh in, this will have a massive impact on AdSense and all who leverage it. Quotes My thoughts Wut the LTT gon do? Sources https://adalytics.io/blog/invalid-google-video-partner-trueview-ads https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/refuting-every-lie-misdirection-non-answer-googles-response-fou

Hey all, I was doing some maintenance on my pile of derelict tech when I noticed that one of my original XBOX consoles, a rev. 1.6, had multiple failed capacitors. Apparently these are from a bad batch of caps from Nichicon. These are not the clock capacitors that notoriously leak and destroy rev. ≤1.5 boards, but the 3300µF 6.3v caps that are near the CPU (probably not helped in any way by the CPU heat). As seen in the photo below, only the larger capacitors with the cross-shaped vents had begun to fail to the point of leaking. A couple of the smaller 100µF 25v caps also looked suspect, so I replaced those as well. All those with the K-shape on top appeared fine. New capacitors in: And we're back in business! These 3300µF capacitors seem to only be present on the rev. 1.6 XBOX boards. You can cross-reference your console's serial to its revision here: XBOX Dev Wiki: Hardware Revisions

Of course, when they said you can run Quake II RTX on a Pascal card, I had to try it. On my 1070Ti (2010mhz core) I barely managed double digit frame rates at 720p when the game first became available alongside consumer Turing cards. Now, with the new Vulkan RT update, I get 30-45 fps with a bunch of goodies turned on and high illumination (still at 720p). Even at low res, it's kinda neat, and now very playable.

How much stuff do you have running in the background? Disable any unnecessary startup services and applications in Task Manager and reboot. If it has been off for a while and you just turned it on, Win may be updating in the background, and any antivirus software will be updating databases, too. Check temps and whatnot, as well. If you're bumping off the thermal limits of your CPU, it will throttle clocks. Is your RAM running at full speed (XMP on)? Zen CPUs really rely on RAM speed for good performance.

This is Windows telling you that the Boot BCD (replacement for boot.ini in Win Vista and newer) can't work with your system config, or has become corrupted. In my experience, this screen is usually blue in Win 10. Are you are trying to boot Windows in Legacy Boot mode? Your board is UEFI, so it was almost certainly installed and configured for UEFI boot. Make sure you have selected the UEFI option for Windows Boot Manager in your boot device list. You can force the system to only boot in UEFI mode by disabling the Compatibility Support Module (CSM) in BIOS. If it is trying to boot Win 10 in UEFI, use the other system and USB drive from earlier and download the Windows Media Creation Tool. Use the tool to create a Windows installation media out of the USB drive, boot your PC to it, and select Repair.

If your issue is that the WiFi signal is weak, or you simply need some ethernet-only devices connected, you can get a cheap used AP that is supported by DD-WRT and use the AP Client Bridge mode. You can place the bridged AP in a more advantageous spot (in a hallway, by the stairs, whatever) for the WiFi signal, and run ethernet cables a much shorter distance. I did this when I was in middle/high school and my dad had the AP in his cave of an office in the most remote part of the house from my room.

I'm not sure what the posts above were describing, but if you are using a splitter, simply split the green plug, with one end of the splitter going to the desktop amp, the other end going to the subwoofer. I don't think you'll have any issue of running the speaker amp into the subwoofer, as the plugs for those two things are mechanically incompatible. The parts you will need (other than the amp, speakers, and sub) are: 1X 3.5" Male to double 3.5" Female Stereo to Stereo Splitter 2X 3.5" Male to RCA Male A spool of copper speaker wire (banana plugs optional for brownie points), wire strippers (teeth), wire cutters (also teeth if you're, like, super gnarly)

Sorry! My solution isn't the smallest, it's one of those stereo amplifiers you'd find in a well kitted-out living room. The more well heeled folks tend to upgrade them frequently and discard them freely as the video side of their fancy Audio/Video hardware gets outdated. Consumer audio hardware hasn't really advanced a whole lot in the last decade, other than internet features. If your mobo has the block of six connectors (Blue, Green, Pink, Orange, Black, Grey), simply run a plug from the green to your amp, to your speakers. Then, run one from the black to your subwoofer. It isn't the most elegant solution, as you'd have to have the levels on your sub and amp cranked, and adjust volume through your OS to adjust the volume uniformly across both sets, but it works. If you run the 8-ohm amp into your sub's amp, you'll overdrive the input of the subwoofer amp and the impedance will be far out of range for the amp connected to the sub. This will probably damage the amp in the sub and possibly the amp connected to the sub, as well.

Just use a normal stereo receiver/amp. You can find a pretty good one for cheap these days if you don't need the fancy HDMI/networking features. I got my 500W 2012-ish model Yamaha Natural Sound receiver with 9 active channels, line level outs, and two crossover'd LFE channels for active subs for $35 at GoodWill. It's also nice, because you can use the SPDIF out on your PC and off-board the DAC functions to the tuner, away from your electrically noisy and also likely lower quality onboard PC audio. I daily this kind of setup. I highly recommend it if you've already got some nice home theater style speakers. Way cheaper to get killer audio for your PC than a specifically designed desktop speaker setup of comparable quality.

The BIOS file you flashed may be corrupted, at least the boot logo probably is. I'd start by downloading the BIOS file again (or a previous release that still supports your CPU) on another machine, verifying it to the MD5 sum (if the site has one available), and flashing it again. Your not booting to Windows issue is likely misconfigured/unconfigured boot drive(s), if you simply loaded a factory state onto the board and did no further config. While you're at it, might as well turn XMP on.

This is true, and I would recommend offsetting the front fan if OP can, but just in case (pun, hah) this is also perfectly effective at displacing heat. I haven't noticed much difference between my box and my buddy's, who also has a D15 in an H440 with Noctua case fans, but got it when he built it, so properly sized the RAM lol. I imagine the noise difference is more pronounced on a cooler with less/smaller fans. The huge 140mm spinny bois in the D15 aren't that loud at full blast, and it's not an annoying noise, it's a pretty low pitch and blends in with the background nicely.

The third video is literally his LTT channel video with the M1 Mac. So, uh, are you very smart, uh?

Please move to: CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory Ryzen 3/5/7/9 are the "tiers" of CPU they offer in the Ryzen lineup, not the generation. AMD is currently on the Ryzen 5000 generation (R9 being 5900x and 5950x) which 500 series chipsets support, supposedly without the need for an AGESA update.