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thermalgoop

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Everything posted by thermalgoop

  1. Of course, when they said you can run Quake II RTX on a Pascal card, I had to try it. On my 1070Ti (2010mhz core) I barely managed double digit frame rates at 720p when the game first became available alongside consumer Turing cards. Now, with the new Vulkan RT update, I get 30-45 fps with a bunch of goodies turned on and high illumination (still at 720p). Even at low res, it's kinda neat, and now very playable.
  2. How much stuff do you have running in the background? Disable any unnecessary startup services and applications in Task Manager and reboot. If it has been off for a while and you just turned it on, Win may be updating in the background, and any antivirus software will be updating databases, too. Check temps and whatnot, as well. If you're bumping off the thermal limits of your CPU, it will throttle clocks. Is your RAM running at full speed (XMP on)? Zen CPUs really rely on RAM speed for good performance.
  3. This is Windows telling you that the Boot BCD (replacement for boot.ini in Win Vista and newer) can't work with your system config, or has become corrupted. In my experience, this screen is usually blue in Win 10. Are you are trying to boot Windows in Legacy Boot mode? Your board is UEFI, so it was almost certainly installed and configured for UEFI boot. Make sure you have selected the UEFI option for Windows Boot Manager in your boot device list. You can force the system to only boot in UEFI mode by disabling the Compatibility Support Module (CSM) in BIOS. If it is trying to boo
  4. If your issue is that the WiFi signal is weak, or you simply need some ethernet-only devices connected, you can get a cheap used AP that is supported by DD-WRT and use the AP Client Bridge mode. You can place the bridged AP in a more advantageous spot (in a hallway, by the stairs, whatever) for the WiFi signal, and run ethernet cables a much shorter distance. I did this when I was in middle/high school and my dad had the AP in his cave of an office in the most remote part of the house from my room.
  5. I'm not sure what the posts above were describing, but if you are using a splitter, simply split the green plug, with one end of the splitter going to the desktop amp, the other end going to the subwoofer. I don't think you'll have any issue of running the speaker amp into the subwoofer, as the plugs for those two things are mechanically incompatible. The parts you will need (other than the amp, speakers, and sub) are: 1X 3.5" Male to double 3.5" Female Stereo to Stereo Splitter 2X 3.5" Male to RCA Male A spool of copper speaker wire (banana plugs optional
  6. Sorry! My solution isn't the smallest, it's one of those stereo amplifiers you'd find in a well kitted-out living room. The more well heeled folks tend to upgrade them frequently and discard them freely as the video side of their fancy Audio/Video hardware gets outdated. Consumer audio hardware hasn't really advanced a whole lot in the last decade, other than internet features. If your mobo has the block of six connectors (Blue, Green, Pink, Orange, Black, Grey), simply run a plug from the green to your amp, to your speakers. Then, run one from the black to your subwoofer. It isn'
  7. Just use a normal stereo receiver/amp. You can find a pretty good one for cheap these days if you don't need the fancy HDMI/networking features. I got my 500W 2012-ish model Yamaha Natural Sound receiver with 9 active channels, line level outs, and two crossover'd LFE channels for active subs for $35 at GoodWill. It's also nice, because you can use the SPDIF out on your PC and off-board the DAC functions to the tuner, away from your electrically noisy and also likely lower quality onboard PC audio. I daily this kind of setup. I highly recommend it if you've already got some nice hom
  8. The BIOS file you flashed may be corrupted, at least the boot logo probably is. I'd start by downloading the BIOS file again (or a previous release that still supports your CPU) on another machine, verifying it to the MD5 sum (if the site has one available), and flashing it again. Your not booting to Windows issue is likely misconfigured/unconfigured boot drive(s), if you simply loaded a factory state onto the board and did no further config. While you're at it, might as well turn XMP on.
    1. PlayStation 2

      PlayStation 2

      Mediocre LaserDisc player with an optional Sega Genesis or Neo Geo modules

    2. thermalgoop

      thermalgoop

      It could do a little more. There was a module for connecting it to a PC by serial, for debug. The intended use was to create interactive games/applications that read video from LD and programs from the CD drive. A creative, but obviously bloated, workaround to the limited capacity of early CDs. Yes, it was a huge commercial flop. 

  9. This is true, and I would recommend offsetting the front fan if OP can, but just in case (pun, hah) this is also perfectly effective at displacing heat. I haven't noticed much difference between my box and my buddy's, who also has a D15 in an H440 with Noctua case fans, but got it when he built it, so properly sized the RAM lol. I imagine the noise difference is more pronounced on a cooler with less/smaller fans. The huge 140mm spinny bois in the D15 aren't that loud at full blast, and it's not an annoying noise, it's a pretty low pitch and blends in with the background nicely.
  10. The third video is literally his LTT channel video with the M1 Mac. So, uh, are you very smart, uh?
  11. Please move to: CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory Ryzen 3/5/7/9 are the "tiers" of CPU they offer in the Ryzen lineup, not the generation. AMD is currently on the Ryzen 5000 generation (R9 being 5900x and 5950x) which 500 series chipsets support, supposedly without the need for an AGESA update.
  12. Asus boards are known to push various boosting techs a bit more aggressively than AMD/Intel spec and other board manufacturers. I have seen a lot of people less than impressed with PBO, it looks like a pretty minimal amount of effort manually OC'ing your Zen yields higher clocks at lower volts and temps. Being fairly familiar with Asus products, I'm sure any auto OC'ing tool (like PBO) that AMD made available is enabled by default on their boards.
  13. Lol beat me to the punch, saw the title in the sidebar and showed up to do the same.
  14. A few years back, I spent about four hours arguing with Xfinity about the same charge on my first bill, alongside an "In-Home Setup" charge. I never let any Xfinity dips into my home, and certainly didn't request their presence. After much blood, sweat, and cursing, the only thing I'm getting ripped off on now is the internet connection itself.
  15. I run mine with both fans exhausting, pulling the air through my D15 for RAM clearance, rather than pushing it. The temps are great. Running the front fan a little offset shouldn't be a big deal, I do this with my BeQuiet! single tower cooler in my HTPC and it is fine. As long as the center fan is aligned properly, it will probably make absolutely zero difference in a behemoth like the D15. Also, be wary of clearance with the side panel of your case with the front fan sticking up like that. This config wouldn't fit in my NZXT H440 when trying to clear the shrouding on my Corsair Vengance
  16. After running your dump file through the WinDbg tool, it looks like your system crashes are related to AuthenticAMD.sys, so it's something related to your CPU, chipset, or their drivers. My best guess is that some call that your game makes isn't being handled correctly due to outdated or corrupted drivers. Try reinstalling the most up to date chipset drivers from your mobo manufacturer, and make sure that Windows and your BIOS are up to date. This also may just be one of those lovely things Windows has done to itself. It may come down to wiping your boot drive and trying the whole Window
  17. What board ya got? Most 80/90 platforms from the big brands can overclock (the H81-I Asus board in my HTPC multiplier OCs, although the power stages are trash), so it may be worth checking out the 4790/70k. The Devils parts are a bit better with thermals and clock a bit higher than the Haswell bits, mostly due to the IHS situation being revised. Unlocked or not, the higher clock speeds and HT will make a difference in modern titles. I replaced my 4670 with a 4770k a while back and it's not night-and-day, but it's noticeable, especially with modern titles that are more multi-threaded.
  18. It really depends how your cooling is set up. If it's set up like a "wind tunnel" where the sides of the case help funnel air through your chassis, then no, you probably won't get better temps with the side panels off. The air pressure from the front fans will be lost out the gaping hole you've opened up. If you're running an AIO, pumping warm air into your chassis, then yes, you will probably notice better temps, particularly on an air cooled GPU.
  19. Haha I know. I was being a bit of a smartass.
  20. You may want to consider the 970 Evo 1TB NVMe, since you're getting a board with NVMe support. SATA is definitely going to be slower.
  21. ....uhhhh...I wouldn't recommend this... I highly doubt you'd be able to dissipate enough heat with a PC chassis. You'd basically only get any effective cooling out of the mobo tray part, because they're bolted or riveted to the rest of the case, which doesn't transfer enough heat to be useful. A small tower cooler has much more surface area in its fins than your mobo tray. Also, the mobo tray is usually painted or coated with something that wasn't designed with heat transfer in mind. And there's a lot of components that stick out over the CPU. You'd definitely be better off with one of these
  22. Since you already have the kit lens that has a decent range of focal length for your application, maybe find the distance that you use the most, and get a prime lens. If it's a cropped (APS-C size) sensor 35mm is nice. Prime lenses usually give a much crisper image, because there's less elements (pieces of glass) than in a zoom lens. You can also get a much faster lens for much less $$ in a prime lens. Sigma makes some pretty nice ones, I like my 50mm f/1.4 EF lens a lot. Although a cursory Google search looks like it may be difficult to find some of their more popular offerings new at the mom
  23. This is lovely and all, but I have no friends and I only downloaded Discord to join the Linus Discord, I sub on FP @ OG tier. But I still have to wait until my Discord acct is old enough.. I promise I'm not just here to spam, I pay LTT moneys.
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