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WildW_UK

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About WildW_UK

  • Title
    Newbie
  1. I received a free one just before Christmas. It's still in the box. I considered opening it once but realised there's no audio output jack so it's basically useless.
  2. Hi folks, I've had an LG G6 for almost 3 years now. . . honestly it's fine, but I keep noticing that I would like a better camera for stills and video. I'm not sure if what I want is realistic though. So I'm working from home and I'm trying to shoot a video in my office to demonstrate some new software feature I'm working on - I'm not trying to directly screen grab a PC, this is an embedded control system a touchscreen and external hardware inputs, so I want to shoot video of my whole setup including a screen. If I point the camera at my screen, the whole background goes dark - automatic exposure control doing its thing. If the camera catches the window then the same thing happens, the room goes dark except for the window and you can't see anything useful. My eyes don't do this, they can see a reasonable balance of everything. I would like to shoot video that looks like what my eyes are seeing. How hard is that, and what is stopping it from happening? Could this be improved with a different camera app? (The built-in one doesn't have any manual controls for exposure). Is the camera itself capable? Is ANY (phone) camera capable? Am I trying to do something simple or impossible?
  3. As an old person (40+) I would have loved to find out if this fancy upscaling does anything good on the made-for-480p content I spend most of my time watching.
  4. That's a complex subject that you would be better asking Google and finding a proper guide, but the basics are that you'd need an older SD card (pre SDHC, less than 4GB) to transfer over an exploit file that you can open on the Wii. When opened that file will let you install a modified set of Wii operating software that will run homebrew software, including loaders that will run both Gamecube and Wii games from USB drives (memory sticks or hard disks I believe) and emulators for older consoles.
  5. There needs to be a secret pass-phrase you can use on tech-support calls to identify yourself as tech-savvy so you can skip all the stupid steps you've already tried. Or someone needs to tell me what it is if it already exists.
  6. It is possible to softmod it and run games from USB however . . .
  7. I use identical generic black HP keyboards on my computers at home and at work. After some years they get kind of gross with dust and crumbs, and I mean to clean them, but they are so cheap I just buy another. I have several gunky ones in boxes that I might clean if I feel poor next time. After holding onto a Sandy Bridge i7 for far too long, last year I finally upgraded. I was so sick of overclocking and stability testing that I bought an i5 9400f and told myself it would be fine at stock. And it is fine.
  8. If you want a PC to run old DOS games and you really want to avoid DosBox then you probably want to start with ancient hardware. Sound in particular was done very differently in the DOS days and you would almost certainly not be able to get any sound from any modern motherboard's on-board sound hardware. There were a very small number of PCI sound cards that had DOS drivers (e.g. by Ensoniq who were later bought by Creative and re-released some of those cards as Soundblaster), but other than that you are looking at much older systems with ISA slots - nothing later than about 1999 / Pentium III / very early Athlon era.
  9. Only just replaced my 2600k - too many volts for too many years degraded it and I couldn't keep it cool any more. Z77 motherboard is still ok though. I honestly would've been more interested if they'd started 20 years back
  10. Back in my student days, some 20 years ago, I used to sit with my roommate and watch him play JRPGs like Grandia and FF7 on the Playstation. They weren't the kind of games I've ever got into playing, but I was able to experience the story while enjoying good company. Maybe it's like that if you're watching the same people regularly. All my friends these days are retro-gaming youtubers, although most of them don't know they're my friends.
  11. I recently built an i5 system and saw something similar. Assuming you have good cooling then the CPU should be able to maintain its maximum turbo of 3.8GHz on all cores indefinitely. However there can be bios settings that limit the time the CPU can run at turbo speed. Look for settings in the bios called something like long term power limit. On my motherboard this value was a power level in watts and there's a time limit setting next to it. The quoted TDP of your CPU is 65W, but this is for the base clock speed of 2.8GHz. When turbo kicks in it will be higher and the system will let it run for some time at a higher level but then slow it back down again. It looks like this could be what's happening for you. The fix is to increase the long term power limit. Some folks seem to just say to put in 9999 as the value. When I was first testing my CPU cooling with Prime95 and CoreTemp I noticed that it would run at the all-core turbo for about a minute, and then dropped down to the base clock speed. CoreTemp shows the current TDP of the CPU, and under all core turbo it jumped from 65W to around 100W. I set my long term power limit in the bios to 125W, and now it will run at the all-core turbo speed indefinitely.
  12. If you install both on the same drive you need some kind of boot menu to select which one to start - Windows or Linux will do this for you though. If you boot from separate drives you need to select which drive to boot from, such as spamming F11/etc when you turn your computer on to get the bios boot menu. For me the real benefit of separate drives is when you change your mind later or want to reinstall one of the OS - it's much easier if they're on separate drives that don't know about each other.at boot time. If they're two partitions on the same drive, good luck reinstalling one without breaking the other.
  13. I have a big old-fashioned stereo amplifier (receiver) on my desk that drives my headphones and some bookshelf speakers. It's big and bulky and sometimes I think about getting rid of it, but I don't know what else I would do. I'm assuming that with modern 3D audio everyone games with headphones now. . . but does everyone still have weak little PC speakers with a headphone socket? Do you just use headphones plugged into the sound card? Where's your volume control? And how do you pipe your TV, other PCs and consoles into your headphones? What's the modern normal for audio?
  14. I recently replaced the hard disks in our home file server (nothing fancy, just a PC running Windows 10), and I'm using the old drives as an offline backup, only powering them on occasionally to update the backups. I've used Microsoft's Synctoy to sync folders and everything works great. However, the new drives are larger than the old ones, and one of the backed up folders is soon going to get larger than the largest backup drive. At that point Synctoy is going to stop being a solution. I like that with this sort of method the backup is a directly usable copy of the data, and I want to avoid using any sort of raid. The first option that springs to mind is the split the folder in two and sync it to two separate drives, but that's not ideal. I'm aware that there are a few alternatives to Synctoy but I haven't used any of them. Do any allow some kind of automatic splitting of the copied data between two target folders, or maybe something different that would better? Any ideas?
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