MrYuriy

... Your SSD isn't on AHCI by default? If not, do it from your BIOS. But yes, of course have AHCI enabled. I can't think of one reason to have IDE enabled. And to answer your question, that quick google search on AHCI .. is EXACTLY all that it is.. It just gives you extra features such as being able to hot plug and some more shit.

Continued beautiful work. Kudos! Loving the mod and your autograph on it

Great, then you're all set. Sorry, I had to bite my lip on a lot of my networking "knowledge" that I felt may or may not apply in Singapore, since I know nothing about it. Only that I could point to you on a map. But, from the sound of things; looks like you've got your answer(s).

Before having the ISP come out there (unless they do 3rd-party jobs) have a network IT come in and essentially "activate" the ethernet port(s) that you need. That may entail getting a router, but if ISP doesn't provide it anyways...

That's fine.. Just unplug it when you install Windows OS.. You do have it on a separate drive, right? Just unplug the rest. Have only 1 HDD/SSD plugged in until the install is done.

WTF! Haha, yes. That is exactly what's causing it. (99.9% chance) Take ANY & ALL HDD's out (completely unplug) then do a clean install from a HDD you know works well. Windows likes doing shit like this sometimes. Pointless shit that makes no sense, yet causes it to fail. I swear, Barnacules purposely threw troll codes into Windows.

The only correct answer to his entire post. Close thread.

That depends... What exactly is behind those "Ethernet ports" ..? Like, is there a server room? Switchboard? Anything that would show that something is actually inside those ports? If not, then you'll need a modem or figure out something to do "behind the walls".

Windows OS itself somehow corrupt? It seems to me as the only variable, since you've already done a clean re-install and also a new HDD. I mean, what else could it be? There is a troll sitting on top of a gnome's head inside your OS, duh..

In that case, with those components, to be honest you could go either way. What I am gonna add, however, is although it will cool you down just a tad, it may just not be worth it to go 60mm. So, personally, if I was asking this question myself - I would stay 45mm, you have a great flow, everything seems fine & dandy as it is.

Ok, so of course have rear fan in push (blowing hot air out) and no, absa-freaking-lutely do not do push/pull here. This is a perfect setup for this config: 3 Front: Pull (air intake) 3 Top: Push (air exhaust) (see the pattern there? a lot of times, balanced math = balanced flow as it is here) And then put the Rear in Push (exhausting). That radiator will be an ice cube with 3 fans blowing cold air in from the front cooling the radiator, and the 3 on top keeping it chilly sucking out any heat, with the rear one finishing the job not allowing heat from the PSU to get in the way, for example. Boom!

As I see it, no rear fan right? Just making sure. You have an arrow pointing into the case, just wondering why.

I guarantee you guys, with how things are going now (keyboards, mice, gamepads, controllers, headphones, cases, etcetc) all being RGB, by next year or so, cases will just be Black or White and have RGB everything in them. It's the smart only way to go. I know that doesn't help you.. But I feel like a question like this is like somebody asking me what THEIR favorite number is..

Neither of those options are why you should use a push/pull config. Worrying about keeping the radiator 2 degrees colder comes 2nd to balanced airflow as the main goal. Such a configuration should only be used depending on the flow of your case. The entire goal of fans, as they have been for 30 years, before radiators n such, is to suck cold air in, blow hot air out. I'm not saying that because you don't know that, I am only saying that because, ultimately, you should answer this question yourself and not take others "opinions". Judge the airflow in the case yourself. Most of the time, the push and/or pull fan(s) on top actually impede airflow; therefore, lessen the performance. But if you need to cool the radiator more, while having balanced airflow in the case, so long as the config doesn't block it - then go for it. Now, if you want to draw us a chart/picture or even just detail your case, fans, and placement, we could help you more accurately. I'll let you know right away whether the push/pull would help or harm. Anyways, hope that helped.

Lol.. There's more factors & variables than just throwing on headphones.. The HD 800s, for example, take a hell of a lot more to power than most.. Connecting a $50 set of headphones to an iPhone and a $500 MIGHT yield same result if you don't know what you're listening for... Most people just don't fully understand how to properly power audiophile equipment, and don't know what they're actually missing. That is, of course, if they actually even care.. But still. Anyways, hope you find what you're looking for mate. I tried to help!

Ohh shit, I knew I was missing a vital element in my last post... That I somehow forgot from my first...? Sorry my friend to waste your time. Although, I still say go for a company that does audio, not gaming-focused headsets. Those have the worst audio quality-to-price ratio. But Idk many wireless offerings beyond the few I'm personally looking at; as I mentioned, probably will go with the Sennheisers. Yeah, they're a bit more pricier. But I've always not cared about what I spent when it comes to Audio. It's one area where price usually does matter. #iBlameItOnTheDrugs

Well, it would help if you told us the budget! Also.. Please for the sake of ALL that's holy do NOT shop for a pair of headphones with a mic already on them.. That is about a 95% chance they won't be as good as they could be, say audiophile or studio quality or whatnot. Simply spend $30-40 and get yourself a ModMic (which is going to be a much better mic than any mic you'll find on any headset) and you can also move the (awesome) mic to another set. Because just from the getgo, looking for a pair with a mic on them not only diminishes audio quality majority of the time, but also limits your search heavily.. With a ModMic (or Zalman's offering) you can buy any pair of headphones you like and make your own headset. To my point, that Corsair headset, for the price-to-audio quality is not good in comparison to a plethora of other offerings. Why not just do that?

Those are great. Sennheiser just released some Wireless headphones. If I recall correctly, it's the Urbanite Wireless series? Maybe. You didn't mention a budget, but those I've been thinking about purchasing myself, so I figured I would throw them in.

If you don't find a tutorial/video of dis assembly for that particular GFX card, just find same brand/nearest card and follow the guide. It's usually just a bunch of screws & slow, tedious work if its your first time. But pretty straightforward once you see a couple videos of different cards being taken apart. As far as using conductive paste - you only use a small amount on the actual chip on the GPU - the rest you want to use thermal pads (should be pre-applied). I can't speak for that card in particular, but 90% GPUs will apply what I said.

Ohh.. Ok! Glad you went with the same one. Like I said, I love & rely on those PSUs as my main drivers for any important build.

I take it the capacitor was off the motherboard? Either way, if you tested, especially applying stress on the remaining parts, they boot, work just fine, etc.. Then you lucked out & ur good to go. Only other thing I would recommend would be to get a new PSU just in case. Personally.. I say same one, lol.. I use it on all 3 of my builds right now. AX860i. NEVER a problem. Won't even knock on wood; i'm that confident.

Cool stuff. Keep updating it & us on it! #PlannedConfusion Now, apologies for going a bit off-topic, but.. Your first pic gave me an interesting idea.. Building a mechanical keyboard INTO a desk. Your lone keycaps placed exactly like a keyboard gave me the idea.. And it looks so sick if it can be executed well! What do you think? Lol.

I was there. Cool shit, huh? But thanks for posting, everyone should see this!

Okay, that's fine. Just get a diff CPU then. I would still apply my other suggestions. Just keep CPU as low as you can.. I guess if you're going stronger CPU/RAM combo go for it, but if pure gaming.. Spending more on GPU would be more beneficial IMO.