Derkoli

I really just think you need to expose yourself to the scientific process, and allow your data to be easily available for free and in an extensive, but organised way. Allow it to be scrutinised. Allow it to be easily changed and updated as new information is released or discovered. Do not lock it behind a paywall. Provide all of the data you can supply for the test conditions. Tell us all of the variables. Take criticism and allow your test methods to be fluid. Tell us the software versions of everything, tell us what drivers you're using. You guys have a lot of resources at your disposal, and you could be a real force for good, and a force for transparency if you pull it off properly with integrity. But you must take criticism and allow yourselves to not be offended by it. When measuring audio equipment, tell us what the air temperature and pressure was. It does matter. If you need help with anything to do with audio, you can message me, or get in contact with Amir from audiosciencereview.com. Not disclosing variables and admitting mistakes will be the downfall of Labs. Provide literally all info. What cables did you use? Drivers used? Software versions used? Ambient temperature? For PSU's, tell us what the current RMS voltage was. What was the peak-to-peak voltage? How much distortion did the sine wave have?

Yeah, my Atom LT wets out in about 5 minutes with fresh DWR lol, one of my nano puffs can last a bit longer, but still not great.

Personally, I'd compare it to the Arc'Teryx Proton LT (basically just a warmer Atom LT), or the Patagonia Nano Air Either way, it's priced pretty much exactly the same as the competition. Major difference is the insulation type (synthetic vs down), and we're not sure how warm the LTT jacket is.

Yes, this is very possible and simple to do. Connect your soundcard to the RCA input on the subwoofer, then connect the RCA output of the subwoofer to a random input of your choice on the Denon amplifier. The subwoofer will behave as the crossover, and then once youve balanced the subwoofer volume wise with the Klipsch speakers, you can adjust the overall system volume with the soundcard or windows.

Even the most basic Genelec subwoofers feature a built in crossover system. You'd run two XLR's from your 200m DAC to the subwoofer, then the two outputs of the subwoofer would go to your 8010ap's. The subwoofer handles all the crossover stuff.

The cables make no difference. The only time cables make a difference is when you're doing long runs. A high quality (and often expensive) cable does really matter there. But it's such a niche use case and does not matter for short runs. I've tried and owned setups that cost north of 500k, and cables don't matter for audio quality. Where they might matter is for aesthetics. In that case I will spend 100-125 on a good thick power cable, because they look pretty great to me, and I can get the proper length that's needed. For interconnects, I just use some Van Damme XLR's, they cost 35-50 for a single channel, but it's worth it for the quality.

Those speakers would be a great bet, but I do think they deserve some better amplification than an Onkyo receiver. Also, ignore power output. The speakers will use 5-10W during normal listening. You don't need tonnes of power.

Good point lol IMO, the Kef R3 is just a better LS50. I agree. I haven't heard one before, but based on some reviews, I imagine they hardly sound agile enough for music or movies. Honestly, getting a pair of active speakers could work too. Then you just get more speakers and an AVR with more pre-outs to upgrade to surround sound in the future.

If you're just doing 2.1, don't go for an AVR. Spending 3k on a 2.1 channel setup is a much much better idea than spending 3k on a 5.1 setup. Less is absolutely more. Personally, with this budget, I'd get a 2 channel receiver plus 2 standmount speakers, with some good cables and stands. For about 3k, you can easily get a pair of Kef R3 speakers, plus a Marantz PM6007 receiver, which will sound brilliant together. I've heard Kef R3's before, and they're amazing. You then either feed the Marantz analogue signal from a DAC, or give it an optical/coaxial signal to deal with by itself. It can also output to a subwoofer if you add one in the future. Then you can just sell the marantz, buy an AVR, add some speakers, then you have a 5.1 setup if you want it in the future. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kef-r3-series-passive-3-way-bookshelf-speakers-pair-black-gloss/6309092.p?skuId=6309092 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/marantz-pm6007-155w-2-ch-stereo-integrated-amplifier-black/6510171.p?skuId=6510171 Ehhh, if you have a good quality subwoofer, place it properly, integrate it properly, then they absolutely improve speakers.

On the little control panel/unit that connects to the subwoofer, press the "effect" button until none of the 3 effect lights are showing. Also, set all your surround speakers to "small" in control panel so the subwoofer gets signal.

I mean, the Apple Dongle even outperforms the Chord Mojo in some areas, and matches in the rest. Which is a £10 device versus a £500 one. Hell, I do half of my listening now through a Behringer UMC22 which feeds two JBL LSR308 Mk2's. Like 600 dollars for a 2 channel setup, and it rocks.

Probably not, unless your current DAC is pretty broken. I have a hard time distinguishing between DAC's even on really expensive speakers.

I'd just grab a Denon AVR-X2700H, I used an x8500h for a while, and it sounded just fine for an AVR.

I would attempt to get a setup that works with Dual Bass turned off, as the mains will be still playing bass this way. It removes one of the main benefits of having a subwoofer, which is to reduce distortion from the mains.

Are the front speakers set to "Full band"? They shouldn't be when using a subwoofer. Turning "Double Bass" on makes both the subwoofer and speakers produce bass. Also, try pressing "Q" on the AVR's remote to access the quick settings, check if the tone control is set to neutral. Also check the tone controls on the front of the AVR aren't set weirdly.

I'd totally remove any crossover settings you have for the subwoofer, check the gain in the menu on the subwoofer (-1dB is loud, -100dB is quiet), check the gain on the AVR aswell.

Could you try hooking the sub up directly to your PC if you have a 3.5mm to RCA cable? It'd be good to figure out what exactly is the issue.

You need to flip the switch on the sub from "High level" to "normal". Also ensure that the gain is turnt up in the subwoofers menu, and on the AVR's menu.

https://www.ifixit.com/Parts/iPod

Yes, it does. "HDMI Support for Audio Return Channel"

Sonos would be simplest then, just chuck a Sonos Amp in each room, it'll handle inputs and powering the speakers.

The cheapest you can possibly go for 7.1 is a Sony STR-DH790. https://www.richersounds.com/sony-str-dh790.html

For 1k CAD, I'd just maximise the speaker quality and get a 2.0 setup. Either nab a pair of S2000MK3's (if you have an optical output on either your PC or TV), or you can push your budget a bit and get the S3000Pro instead. Both are an excellent choice and come with a remote so you're not screwing around with getting up to adjust volumes. If you want to upgrade to a 5.1 or 7.1 in the future, then you can simply buy a receiver with pre-out's and keep using these as your front channels. https://www.amazon.ca/Edifier-S2000MKIII-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07ZVP9XBG/ref=sr_1_27?crid=2SMKL8DTHSQUU&keywords=edifier&qid=1666655716&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjMxIiwicXNhIjoiNC43OCIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTgifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=edifier%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-27 https://www.amazon.ca/Edifier-S3000Pro-Audiophile-Active-Speakers/dp/B07NP3CS11/ref=sr_1_36?crid=2SMKL8DTHSQUU&keywords=edifier&qid=1666655716&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjMxIiwicXNhIjoiNC43OCIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTgifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=edifier%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-36

First off, how are you wearing them? You typically have to wear B&W stuff with the headband tilting further forward on your head than you'd think. Just put them on normally, then move the headband forward on top of your head. If that doesn't work, you can stretch them out over time.

It still should be able to push a 5.1 system to reference listening levels. Even if its spitting out 75W a channel, that's still quite alot. Either way, if you are clipping the built-in power amps, you'll need something external. Just getting something seperate for the front mains (your RP-280F's) will let the Denon give your other channels some more power. Just make sure whatever you buy is specced to provide over 125W per channel at 8 ohms. Also remembers your speakers will dip below 8 ohms, so if the amp can provide lots more power at 4/6 ohms, then that'd be great. You should also get a sound quality increase from external amplification. Most AVR's sound like crap. Including my Denon X8500H, which sounded mediocre at best, especially if I fed anything decent with it.