Kryptyle

Just started folding with my Rig while social distancing (9900K and 2080TI all custom loop). Time to drop those viruses faster than a motherboard. For some reason RTX is not on though.

It was given as part of their Black Friday 2019 promotion. I think they gave them out to the first 200 orders or something. I got one, it looks good, but the software is really immature. The fan control works very well, and you could just use g1/4 temp sensors to have loop temp as well. As for ARGB control, you can't individually control components, it's all or nothing. Settings aren't great either. It's basically an alpha level product at this point, which is probably why they gave it away so people would test them. I might add it in in the future if the software gets better but I doubt it.

That's a very good point, I'd forgotten about that, routing the internal display output would certainly be what I'd call too much of a pain, let alone routing the networking. Thanks for finding that though, I'll certainly look into it, but realistically with Display and Networking being highly complex I doubt I could manage it. I'll keep digging around, don't want the dream to die just yet lol.

Space wise I'm thinking of removing the hard drive, it's true it still probably wouldn't be enough unless I can find a tiny enough board and even then I'd probably have to trim the PCB to get it to fit. Agreed, I've definitely oversimplified when I said it's just soldering the pins, I haven't looked at any of the diagrams from the other project but will update once I verify what they'd done. Another issue I foresee is that being a gaming laptop, the input voltage and power were quite high, potentially higher than what the Type C spec would support and I'm not sure what I'd do in that case. As you can all probably tell I'm still thinking through the project and whether it can be done. So far it doesn't seem impossible. Just seems like a massive pain, but at this point still interesting to me at least.

I appreciate the answer, though I understand this would require additional functionality. This is why I'm looking into how to adapt something internally to PCiE and then use that to add in a PCiE Type-C card. As for Power Delivery, I have found a few projects online of people getting this to work, replacing their barrel connectors for Type-C ports that do only power delivery without any of the data functionality. If I can solder the right pins onto the Type-C output of a PCiE card I think this should work. I miss the expansion slots too, life was good then. I completely agree, it would definitely be more cost effective Time-wise to just get another laptop,.I just think this might be a fun project since based on the condition it's currently in, I can't really sell this laptop. Good to know, I was looking at the internals and noticed the WiFi is an add in card into what looks like an M.2 slot. I know Linus has experimented with running GPUs off of these ports in the past through PCiE, this might be another route to take. I know I'll lose WiFi and will have to use an external adapter, but I've seen some Nano WiFi Dongles so I could live with it.

Hi Everyone, TL;DR I have a slightly older laptop that's still pretty decent. I'm looking into whether it would be possible to mod a Type-C port onto it, giving it the full featureset for USB 3.1 Gen 2 including Power Delivery, DisplayPort Output and the other basic features like networking etc. Longer Story: I currently have an awesome PC, I use it to game as well as to do some light Photo Editing as well as Casual use. I also have a slightly older Laptop with me I use from time to time as a secondary device, for travel or on the bed use. It's a Gigabyte P34W v4, a pretty good Gaming Laptop at the time spec wise. It has an i7-5700HQ, a 970M as well as 16GB Ram.Internally, it has an mSATA slot where I have a 128GB SSD, and a Sata port where I have a 1TB HDD in. The only issues are damaged hinges and a battery that won't hold a charge. I first considered buying a Surface Pro 7 as a light secondary device, but I've of late been interested in repairing the minor physical damage, replacing the battery and running the laptop itself. But I would like a Type-C port. My idea, is to wire in a Type-C port where the current power barrel jack is. Then, and this is all thery on my part since I don't know what the Pin layout for Type-C looks like yet, I would solder the power pins from the Type-C port to the internal power pins that the barrel jack used. That would handle Power Delivery. For the actual USB Video and Data functionality, I was wondering if I could adapt either the mSATA slot or the SATA port internally to a PCIe and then add in a PCIe card that does Type-C so I could get me the data functionality, and solder those pins in so I could have a complete solution. If anyone has anyone has any experience doing anything similar please let me know! I couldn't find anything like this online as far as I checked and was curious as to what the community thought. Cheers!

Pull up task manager and look at the background processes, is there anything in there running that you think shouldn't be on there? Also what applications are enabled on startup in Task Manager, that significantly affects your boot time. Have you formatted and reinstalled windows at all since the issues started, curious to know if that helped. What it sounds like to me is a bunch of background processes clogging up your memory and using CPU clocks when they shouldn't. A fresh windows install would solve this. But check Task Manager first to establish if this is the issue.

I second that, it is most likely a cooling issue, in which case REALLY matters. Do the following: Run a few benchmarks with your side panel on, use something like afterburner to check temps and see what they are like. (They are probably pretty bad if you're having freezes. If they are bad, then move forward. If the temps aren't that bad, maybe it's a bad part, look for strange clocks on your CPU and GPU, especially the GPU is the GPU clock locked at a particular clock speed or showing some other strange behavior? Try reseating the CPU in the socket and the GPU in the PCIe slot and see if that makes the system more stable. If the CPU and GPU were hot with the panel on, remove it and see how much of a difference you have, it should be significant, if after removing it your benchmarks and tests are running smoother and temps are down, you might need to look into some better case fan configurations. If you don't see great improvements, on either CPU or GPU check the following: I believe the H500i has a PSU shroud, is your GPU on the lowest PCIe slot such that its fans are right up against the shroud? If so you are choking it, and it's not able to get air, bring it up to the top slot. If your CPU is still hot, are the fans spinning up? What cooler do you have? If it's a beefy cooler but not giving you the performance you need remove the cooler and inspect how the thermal paste spread on the cold plate of the cooler and IHS on the CPU, if it looks like it didn't spread evenly then clean it up, redo it and mount the cooler again. Sometimes the cooler may not have mounted properly the first time, a fresh coat of thermal goop and mounting would fix that. Try these steps and let me know if it worked out in the end. Also what is your fan configuration on the case.

A few troubleshooting steps for you: Unplug your monitor from the CPU and disconnect it's power cable, wait like 30 seconds and plug in the monitor to power and switch it on, don't connect it to the PC and don't turn on the PC. If the monitor says 'No signal detected' then it is either a problem with the output on your PC, the HDMI Cable, or the input on your monitor. If this happens, does your monitor have another Input, a display port or another HDMI? Try plugging your monitor through the alternate input to the computer and try booting it up. If it works, then the first input was broken, and this one will work from now on. If it doesn't work, perhaps there is something wrong with the output on your PC, or the cable itself. If it doesn't show anything at all (no input not found error), then either the monitor is not receiving power, i.e the power cable may be at fault or the monitor's power circuit is faulty. If your monitor doesn't seem to be the problem, try another cable, if it still doesn't seem to work, try another monitor with the PC, if it still doensn't work your video out on your PC might be at fault.

Not all of them are at 5V, for example if your audio system is older and has a USB it's unlike it'd be 5V, it's more for plugging in a flash drive to play songs off of. Many newer cars have all 5V USBs, or a few which are marked with a charge icon to let you know that you can charge off of it too. Car manuals will have this info if you're curious or are looking to buy a car.

It is most likely the additional threads, as well as the Turbo Boost advantage, also the older chips were a little more generous in power usage and would turbo up for longer if I'm not mistaken. While it does have more L3 cache, it does have a significant bus speed disadvantage, I haven't done the calculations but I think it might just even out. I think it's likely the Turbo speed, maybe the next time you're gaming and streaming monitor what clocks each CPU is going up to and see how long they're maintaining those speeds. Btw are you playing and streaming on the same PC at the same time? You might want to equalize all variables, are you using the same GPU? Because that will affect your results. Try using the 1060 on each CPU and check it out.

The PC shouldn't have too much of a problem, if you have a good Virtualization tool you can specify the VM to have 2 cores and that would make it quite performant. However, you'll run into a problem with RAM, 8 Gigs won't be enough for 2 systems, especially if one is trans coding and acting as a NAS, it'll need at least about 2-4 Gigs right there, that's going to harm your gaming experience. Also VMs are a pain to set up, it's not impossible and they can be very reliable, but they are annoying to configure. You'll need a separate video out for the VM, which means possibly a low-end GPU for that as well adding to the cost. Honestly, a VM on the same machne is a very cool thing, if you've got the higher end hardware and pocket for it it's awesome, but if you just want something that will work well when your mom wants to watch something, go with another computer.

Looks pretty good overall I'd say. The processor isn't too overkill, it's pretty balanced and you should not see any bottle necking. You're right there are great deals on the 1080Ti if you can find a trustworthy source so go for it. I only have 3 suggesions: Get 16 Gigs of RAM, definitely, you'll need it, especially as games are getting more and more RAM hungry, yu don't need to spring for 32 just yet, but I would HIGHLY recommend 16 at least. Maybe a slightly beefier PSU? 550 should be fine of course, but a 650 might give you room to grow. As long as you're looking at ATX they all coust about the same and there is always a deal somewhere on a good branded PSU. But not necessary, just a suggestion, if it hurts the budget stick with this. Also you might need to get a Hard Drive as well, 500GB will fill up real quick. How much storage you need is up to you, but they're available on the cheap. I put together this Parts list, it's about $732 excluding the cost of the Video card, since you'll have to find the deal yourself, but I think you can get a great machine for your price point. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($259.79 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI - Z370-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($108.39 @ OutletPC) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($104.64 @ OutletPC) Storage: SanDisk - SSD PLUS 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Newegg Business) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X Video Card Case: Fractal Design - Arc Midi ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Cooler Master - MasterWatt 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($36.98 @ Newegg) Total: $732.56 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-01-11 10:06 EST-0500 Hope this helps!

Yes exactly, though if you have them on the cooler you would be able to set up fan curves to reduce the RPMs. Though if you're doing that then you're basically downgrading the fans back to the regular fans' RPMs. The NH-D15 is a great tower style air-cooler. In fact, it'll generally let you overclock pretty well too. The cooler comes with two of the NF-A15 140mm fans anyway. Those should be more than enough for overclocking. My suggestion would be to get the cooler and try out how much you can overclock, if you are happy with the results then you wouldn't need the higher power fans anyway. If you have a stable overclock but your temps are too high you can go for the Industrial fans. I think you should be fine with the NH-D15 as is though, what CPU are you planning to cool? I'm not sure if I saw you mention that.

No problem, fans can get confusing. Those are Noctua's industrial line, they are build with far superior materials and are more expensive. They run at higher RPMs too and can get quite loud, annoyingly loud in fact. The difference between the two fans is input voltage rating. The first is rated at 12v of input voltage. This is typically what PC fans run at. The second is rated up to 24v, your motherboard is very unlikely to provide that kind of output. I'm not familiar enough with the fans to know what they would do under under-volted conditions. If you had to go with one of these I would suggest the first fan. Having said all of that, I wouldn't recommend going with the industrial PPC fans. They're loud, expensive and a little overkill. They are the best for cooling no-question, but you may not need them. If the only reason you picked them instead of the regular ones is because they are black instead of brown and beige and ugly (Which is a very valid reason, I love Noctua fans but I hate the colors), then there is another option. Check out the Noctua Chromax 140mm fans: Chromax NF-A14 The fans are black and they allow you to customize the noise dampening rubber grommets too so you can match them with the rest of your build. Also they aren't as expensive as industrial fans and are much quieter. They are basically better looking regular Noctua Fans.