kingknightrider

Strange... I saw the Z623 had subwoofer and two speakers but one green 3.5 jack. I assumed since it was of that design the subwoofer would work via those channels. I don't know why they are so bent on 3.5. Every time i bring it up and they act very strange... almost as if its personal or something. They are using the same system as me: Logitech Z506.

Are there any center channel speakers that have a 3.5 jack instead of the wires? I don't know why but they seem to have this aversion to wire type speakers... I think I will ask them tomorrow why.

I don't doubt it -just trying to fit the best I can find in what they want in the budget they have. Personally I am fine with 5.1 Logitech Z506 -I have no complaints. Ah the Logitech 623 would use the sub-woofer in the FL FR right? This person has been using the same sound system as me except it is now failing. And I quote: "5.1 isn't cutting it anymore -time to go 7.1" but they want to keep the 3.5 jack.

The pebbles come as a pair connected by a 3.5 and sound better than default Red Dragons of similar price. At least if sound tests on Youtube are any comparison. I would get single speakers but can't find single speakers with 3.5 for $40 or less. Don't know why they require it be 3.5 period. I don't understand why so many adapters will be needed this is the extractor: So straight from the GPU HDMI-IN (other side) > 3.5 from speakers connect here and sound... Or am I missing something?

I got a request from someone on devising a 7.1 surround sound system for under $250. NOTE: They have a few rules: 1. Only 3.5 jacks BUT No motherboard audio. They have been burned so many times they want nothing to do with it. 2. Speakers must have a sub-woofer with direct control on the speaker. 3. Total must be under $260. So I started looking around but could find no 7.1 sound system that would fit this for under $350 at the least. So my solution is kind of.... weird but here it is: 1. First -get an HDMI cable and connect it to the Graphics card HDMI port. 2. Connect the other HDMI cable end to a: Monoprice BlackbirdTM 4K Series 7.1 HDMI Audio Extractor: 3. Connect the following into the Front Left and Right connection: Logitech Z623 - get fronts and sub-woofer out of the way supposedly. 4. Connect three of the following: Creative Pebble 2.0 USB-Powered Desktop Speakers with Far-Field Drivers and Passive Radiators To the Front Center, Rear Left and Right and Rear Center Left and Right. 5. Then use a USB wall charging station to power all the USB. This gets the price to about $255 with shipping and handling. NOTE: The center, side and rear speaker(s) will consist of TWO speakers instead of one. So the center will have two, left and right side will have two and rear will also have two speakers. Which will mean that in total it will consist of 12 speakers and a sub-woofer. My concern is threefold: 1. Will this cause an echo from the dual speakers on the center, sides and rear? 2. Will it also duplicate the sound leading to reverberation? 3. Will this even work?

Alas such is life... to bad can't have a window now and "Force" choke the CPU to death now for another.

Of course nothing is going to run the same in the BIOS versus an Operating System. That doesn't help the issue either since even in Windows Ryzen Master displays an AOT voltage reading. I would much rather use OCCT, HWInfo64, Core Temp and ROG CPU-Z -using the CPUID SDK over it. Since they now use the SV12 TFN sensor to give a live reading and not an AOT reading like RM. Again this is based on Ryzen 3000 and below -if it has been updated or fixed for 3000 or even 5000 I can't say. Still I would rather trust my BIOS for voltages and frequencies over Ryzen Master Windows readings any day. To do otherwise is to live foolishly and I will not be caught in such a crowd.

No problem. I thought you wanted it to survive till RMA time but I guess if it fails before that window opens it isn't a problem?

This is untrue. I know programs that show the right voltages better than Ryzen Master. These programs in my opinion are ALOT better than Ryzen Master. Ryzen Master is a program that has never shown me the right voltages in comparison to the BIOS. Maybe that has changed since Ryzen 5000 was released but I would never trust RM over my BIOS. AMD should stick to what its good at with hardware and stay out of the software market altogether.

So a 3800 static is giving errors on a 3600 chip? Yep its a crap chip. Don't worry your not the only one to fail the silicon lottery. Have you tried setting a static 3600 and see if the errors continue? Or again use the method above and can slowly decrease till no errors show: Control Panel > Power Options > Change Plan settings > Change advanced plan settings > Processor Power Management: Change Maximum Processor state from 100% to 99% <<Decrease the number until no errors show. Will show exactly how bad the chip is... Though in all accounts the chip should have probably been binned as a 3100X Either way getting the errors to stop will give you more time before chip failure.

I just noticed your clock is 3800mhz... The default clock for the 3600 Ryzen 5 is supposed to be 3600 MHZ. Whether you know it that chip is being overclock. You are not overclocking it are you? If you are take it back to defaults clock speed and you should see the errors stop.

That is a deviation of the line of PSU's from Antec that are actually worth anything... The Antec line of PSU's worth anything are the RED and BLACK HCG version: The one you linked I would not know personally. Maybe a rebranding of it which proves its post 2018. I am using Antec HCG PSU in the picture in the two computers here. Both PSU's have been running 24/7 since they were bought in 2011 and 2015 comparatively. Maybe I just got two diamonds in a rough though. Any buyer that changes the price like you have described isn't someone who I would buy from. Also here is what amazon does to cover a third-party buy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=GQ37ZCNECJKTFYQV ALL THIS SAID: After looking over the PSU teir list over if you budget is about $90-$120 then I definitely have a better choice than that one. https://www.amazon.com/MSI-MPG-Power-Supply-PSU/dp/B08PDV45F8

First I guess I have been living under a rock in not knowing that ANTEC is now making thermal pastes.... How does Antec Formula X stack up to the other mainstream thermal paste options: Arctic Silver 5, Arctic MX-4, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NT-H1/2? Would its longevity be longer or shorter before having to reapply the thermal compound? For example my builds that have used Arctic Silver 5 in the past take about 6-8 years before needing a reapplying. Or maybe longevity is related to the W/mK of the paste... nope -that has nothing to do with longevity.

Just curious if you found out anything or had to indeed return it?

This is indeed hardware related. HOWEVER it may not be the CPU. It could also be the memory or the motherboard. At least these are the most common causes. Though I hate to quote someone from the Microsoft website -here it be: What I would advise first is to default your BIOS. See if it still occurs if so move on to these other tests: If it does continue you really should check your CPU, Motherboard, Hardware and Memory with diagnostics software. Like PB says check the memory with the Memtest86+: https://www.memtest.org/ CPU and motherboard I would use: https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/cpu-z-download.html https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/hwinfo64-download.html https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/gpu-100 https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/download-maxon-cinebench.html Use: https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/coretemp-1-rc1.html To check voltage stability and also clock timings are correct while testing with the above. Also don't forget to check your hard drives as well: https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/crystaldiskinfo-download.html' Also for the bouncy ADHD ryzen chip... I assume the chip is going turbo? Your can disable the PBO or if you don't want to do that... Go into: Control Panel > Power Options > Change Plan settings > Change advanced plan settings > Processor Power Management: Change Maximum Processor state from 100% to 99% this will halt the chip from going turbo.