Burdla

Comrade I too have a very similar issue with my HX1200 with a serial number starting in 2303. Unfortunately mine was a little more on the catastrophic end and posted on LTT Forums here in hopes of insight. RMA process is started through Corsair so fingies crossed. Testing the unit by shoving a paperclip into the 24 pin seems a little too janky for me and will just let them deal with it. Maybe it will be another batch of recalls and Corsair can take some notes off EVGA power supplies. My old 850W G2 lasted nearly 10 years with a moderately overclocked i5-4690k and GTX 770 SLI. The Corsair lasted all of 10 minutes.

Doing some homework because of a major issue after swapping some essential pieces and need to learn more. Problem is when the power button is pressed only one single click happens. No motherboard LED, not a single fan trying to start spinning, Hue 2 lights do not turn on, or even a momentary dim from the lamp on the other side of the room. F to pay respects in thread is appreciated. Put in some all-new parts including a PSU, BIOS settings were reverted to stock to be stable prior to overclocking the snot out of it, didn't even get there :c . Installed windows with some small hiccups, got into the desktop, all hardware seemed fine and dandy, then out of nowhere system crashed and blue screened. OS struggled a lot to repair itself and uninstalled newly downloaded Windows updates. Booted automatically in safe mode without being prompted. Shortly after complete and sudden power down. No power back on ever again, do not pass go, do not collect $200. In the process of checking all the necessary diagnostics boxes. What has been done so far: Checked the house circuit which did not trip. Unplugged and turned off PSU switch for 10 minutes to remove any residual energy. Used different outlets all while trying with and without surge protector and raw walled. Learned I do not want, need, or should use multi rail. Likely not even over current / voltage protection kicking in. What is just about to be done: Recheck if I used the proper cables for the corresponding parts and that they are plugged in properly everywhere. Enable my OCD by not letting the peas and corn of cables touch in case its a random short somewhere while unplugging things. One by one revert to replaced parts in efforts to find the broken link. Then and only then will I be able to confirm without a shadow of a doubt it is in fact a DOA HX1200. That is unless somebody more knowledgeable than me suggests a step I'm missing or something not considered. Will update the class with big updates so the omniscient search engines can hoard this data. Worst case scenario I somehow fried the entire system but unlikely since won the silicon lottery with 4.82 gHz fresh out of the box. Overall rig is at this PCPartPicker URL Replaced: Corsair HX 850 to Corsair HX 1200 Ryzen 3700x to Ryzen 5900x WD SN750 500GB M.2 to WD SN850X 1000GB (Old SSD was showing early signs of death because I'm a data hoarder, still works just not in the system anymore)

Very understandable, the desk is bigger than the pictures give it credit for. Had my back against the wall to get the whole desk in frame. 7 feet length x 3 feet wide for both sides, and the hutch is 6feet tall.

After 8 long faithful years I finally swapped out my very first motherboard, an MSI Z87-G45. It was the last remaining part surviving the purge of beginner parts for big boy components from RAM, CPU, PSU, drives, you name it, this mobo outlasted it all. For a solid 5 years it ran in tandem with an overclocked Intel i5 4690k @ 4.3 mHz, Kingston HyperX Fury 2x8 DDR3 2400 mHz, and GTX 770 SLI. (Janky I know, but it worked flawlessly.) I would have waited out the rest of the boards days and populated more DIMM slots, but the Cooler Master 212 Evo w/ dual fans makes a clearance issue forcing you to not use it or use low profile RAM on ATX boards, which the HyperX is not by any means. Nor can you get more DDR3 HyperX at those speeds without scouring the internet with a fine tooth comb. This machine is my personal daily driver that I use frequently to play video games and use for school work which involves a lot of playing around in GIS software. So I saved up my nickels and dimes over the pandemic and last month bought a new mobo to replace the old one, switched from team blue to red with a 3700x and decided to cool it with a Corsair H150i, obligatory upgrade from 2x8GB to 2x16GB, and revamped my cooling situation by picking up some Noctua case fans. First picture is the complete new build working as intended. Below is a complete PCPartPicker list including peripherals, and excluding a 7 port USB 3.0 PCI hub made by the small Chinese firm Orico. Temperatures are acceptable, 1% lows idle are about 27C, 1% highs under full load are 63C, average idle is about 32C, while average full load is approximately 55C. Although Corsair iCue in my opinion is worse than any plague in history and I think this software frequently malfunctioning is directly responsible for increasing my average and 1% full-load CPU temps by 25-50%. During testing and breaking in the new components, about a week ago I had to force-restart my system after Civ 6 crashed. iCue was very much not a fan of that, and failed to recognize the pump in the software forcing it in "safe mode" which blinks the LED's red, and fans operate at 100%. A few restarts and forced firmware updates it fixed, but since then my data has been skewed towards running hotter and fluctuating throughout the range a lot more often. I unfortunately somewhat need the software since my RAM, AIO, and keyboard lights are all configured through it. The second picture is NZXT CAM software, responsible for managing 4 LED strips off an NZXT Hue 2 and changing colour according to CPU temperatures. Temperatures broadcasted from this software are as accurate as resource monitor, and a program called Core Temp, validating it's accuracy. Picture 3 is CPUZ software showing the maximum stable frequency achieved through AMD Ryzen Master auto-overclock. Keeping CPU temps chilly while under full load hours at a time is obviously a must if I am to keep these parts for at least 10 years. Upgrading from a 4690k @ 4.3 gHz, 45C 1% highs after 4 hours of Witcher 3 gainz. Instead liquid cooling with the Corsair H150i, the CPU cooler I used had 2x120mm fans attached to the heatsink in push/pull. Replacing the triple radiator was a top 2x120mm exhaust and a Blu-ray drive. (RIP In Peace, it won't fit now w/ new cooler) Noctua p14's replaced the stock 6 year old dying 140mm fans that came with the case (Corsair 750D) set up as 2 intake and 1 exhaust. Combined the old setup worked as a low pressure system because of the sheer volume of air circulating through the system, but now operates as an ambient air cooler and provides the radiator with cold air. Pictures 3 and 4 are of my battlestation which was finished right before the pandemic. The monitor is an Asus VG32VQ 31.5" curved 16:9 VA panel @ 144 hz and 4ms gtg response time. I would go all out on a banging ultrawide or IPS panel but I'm limited by physical space in the hutch of my desk. Keyboard is a Corsair K70 Cherry MX Brown, Mouse is a Logitech g502 Proteus Spectrum, then for audio / comms I typically use a Logitech g935. Personalized goodies are a bunch of Bionicles, a rubber chicken, Lego ISS, and a bunch of different types of rocks then minerals including fools gold and raw asbestos. Oh yes and I drilled small holes in my wooden desk to properly cable manage a 1080p webcam, and an xbox one with zero airflow that runs like a furnace. No clue why. Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $319.99 @ Newegg CPU Cooler Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE CAPELLIX 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $189.99 @ Amazon Motherboard Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard $219.99 @ Amazon Memory Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $326.70 @ Amazon Storage HP S600 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage Seagate FireCuda Compute 2 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive $207.00 @ Amazon Video Card MSI GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB TRI FROZR Video Card Case Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case $109.99 @ Newegg Power Supply EVGA G2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $139.88 @ Other World Computing Case Fan Noctua P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan $14.95 @ Amazon Case Fan Noctua P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan $14.95 @ Amazon Case Fan Noctua P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan $14.95 @ Amazon Case Accessory NZXT HUE 2 RGB Lighting Kit LED Controller Monitor Asus TUF GAMING VG32VQ 31.5" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor $427.99 @ Amazon Keyboard Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 Wired Standard Keyboard $159.99 @ Amazon Mouse Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum Wired Optical Mouse $74.98 @ Amazon Headphones Logitech G935 7.1 Channel Headset $119.99 @ Newegg Speakers Logitech Z150 0 nW 2.0 Channel Speakers $19.99 @ Adorama Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $2361.33 Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-03-03 20:49 EST-0500

Are there any 3+ USB port hubs currently on the market that are powered by PCI-E alone? I don't care if its a x1 or x16 form factor but the big niche of a hub that I'm looking for is that it does not need an external power cable. Being picky so I can manage the cables properly both inside and outside my case. Thinking something along the lines of this Chinese board (Newegg.ca), but just significantly more reliable.