Spyder1384

Not a problem. Hopefully they'll get you back up and running properly in a decent amount of time. Good Luck

What is the rated download "and" upload speeds that you're supposed to be getting from your ISP? The 100Mbps is only your download speed.

just down or down and up?

what are the rated speeds that you're supposed to be getting from your ISP?

Also, just looked at your Speedtest. Looks like the numbers I've been getting lately from my ISP. I'm rated at 100 down and 20 up, but my numbers were looking almost exactly like yours on speedtest. As it turned out they have a faulted node from a lightening strike that they've been working on for months now and still haven't been able to pin down the problem.

It couldn't hurt. A lot of ISPs have external tests that they can run to your modem to try to check things on their end as well.

Agreed, verify that there's no point of contact on the back of the MoBo, Maybe try testing it out of the case would be best to ensure no contact. Just set it up on a piece of cardboard. If it still fails then I might be concerned with one of your points of contact from the CPU.

I agree fully with @Viper9 if the GPU is testing good in another system I'd say that all other testing you've done is sufficient and would contact ASUS about the MoBo. Their support is usually really good from my experience.

It seems as though you've been fairly thorough in testing your system to try to recognize the GPU. Have you tried testing the GPU in another system? Or changing what power plugs are running to the GPU?

There's a lot of factors that can lead to excessive latency. I've personally been having a problem with my ISP that's causing some notable packet loss which in turn is giving me random spikes in latency. Firstly, I'd make sure you're computer is running clean and has all latest updates including BIOS. Secondly, wipe then update the ROM on your Router (assuming you have a personal Router). Third, run at least 5 consecutive speedtests, I would recommend using SpeedTest.net. Lastly, head over to packetlosstest.com. This will give you an idea of weather or not there might be line issues or faulty hardware somewhere. If you are showing notable packet loss, it doesn't mean that it's on your end. (As is such the issue in my case). Another thing you could do is run a ping test to your router to ensure that the connection there is solid and stable. Open a command prompt and type in "ping 192.168.1.1 /t". Keeping in mind that that IP address is common for most routers and that yours may be different. You can find out what yours is by typing "ipconfig /all" in command prompt and seeing what it says for "Gateway". In any case, let the ping test run for about 5-10mins then come back and hit "Ctrl+C" to end the test. As long as you're on a wired connection you shouldn't see a response higher than 2ms (typical). This will at least validate the connection from PC to router. If your numbers are higher than 2ms or you have any packet loss I would start by replacing the cable between the 2 and try all tests again. While cables don't necessarily fail often, they do still fail and should be checked/replaced if you're having issues where they might be suspect. If you can manage to test and determine that all of the tests on your side are good (ping test) and after updating everything including router that your speedtest and or packetlosstest is still not as expected, I would then contact your ISP and make sure to have all results available for them so they can easier determine that the issue is not in any of your hardware so that you don't get charged for a tech call.

As long as the BIOS is current one thing to consider is that there may be a setting to tell the BIOS what your "Primary Display" should be. (I.E. - Integrated, PCI, PCIe, etc.). I would check for that to be sure since you're board is capable of integrated graphics. I've encountered this before and didn't even notice until I made it as far as getting Windows installed and trying to install the latest Drivers/Software for my GPU.

Sometimes your performance related issues can be nothing more than you need a BIOS update. I've seen CPU, GPU and M.2 NVMe performance all improved noticeably just from making sure I had the latest BIOS revision. If you've looked over everything else, I would reset BIOS, Update to latest and then reconfigure BIOS and try again.

Upgrading your MoBo will not necessarily warrant better internet speeds. In most cases it will have little to no impact whatsoever. Most internet speed issues come down to what your provider has provisioned on your modem and how you have your router configured if using a personal router (which is always a good idea). If you are using a personal router, it would also be a good idea to make sure it has the latest firmware installed. The only thing that comes to mind outside of that that could potentially have an impact is system resource consumption at idle. Assuming that you have Ideal percentages at idle, i wouldn't worry about your hardware or software. I would say that Ideal percentages should be around 10% or less on CPU, same for GPU, roughly 4-6GB in use RAM (From my experience) and HDD use may vary some. These numbers are assuming that it is a fresh boot of the machine and that you have given it enough time to process all updates/startup items/applications on a Windows 10 Environment.

As with most ISPs the biggest thing they're going to tell you is your Download speed. If your provider is telling you it's "Gigabit" internet, you still need to verify what upload speeds to expect as they're not usually good about giving this information up front. As far as your Speedtests go, with an ISP rated Gigabit download, I would expect that based on your local traffic to internet as well as volume traffic for the HUB/Node that you're connected to for your ISP, an average of +/- 800Mbps or better is expected and also usually within an expected range as far as your ISP is concerned. During times of High Area Traffic it may not be uncommon to see it drop down to around 680ish Mbps.

My personal preference has always been ASUS boards. I've used them in my last 3 systems and have always had excellent reliability and long term use out of them. I'm still using my 10 year old system as a management server for my home network as well as remote management for a couple friends/family members. That system has an ASUS M4A-87TD/USB3 board where as my current build has an ASUS Crosshair VI Hero. Everyone has their preference, and there's a lot of good boards out there. The biggest thing I would suggest is to figure out what you have to plug into it currently and make sure it has enough expansion to accommodate any future upgrades you might have in mind.

I definitely agree with @Fasauceome, I would also try to make sure it's on the latest release for BIOS as well. I've been able to correct a number of issues that people were having on older hardware just by doing a BIOS update/reset and a clean install of Windows.

Pinging your router is a great idea. You should typically see <1ms with a 2ms max over a wired connection. If you start to go above that at all or have "No Response" given then your problem is local. If that looks good you can try going to packetlosstest.com and see what it might be able to tell you about your connection to your ISP and if the problem might be there. I had to do this somewhat recently with my ISP, turned out there was corrosion on one of the line connectors...

Decompression during download or pulling from your XBOX are both possible options. If you want to narrow it down at all, I would suggest that you uninstall completely, use DiskMax to clear any cached or windows temp folders (pretty good freeware), then open the performance tab in windows task manager and monitor your NIC/Network usage/speeds as you re-download the game. Or whatever netmon software you may prefer. This will give you a better understanding of what your Network is actually doing and not what is being reported by the "Store".

Most mid to high level ASUS routers that i've looked at allow for configurable DUAL-WAN. While i've never used it, my ASUS GT-AC5300 supports this feature. If you're not looking to go too crazy though, you might be able to find a Refurbished ASUS RT-AC5300 for a good price. This would set you up with a decent Tri-Band router with DUAL-WAN support and some pretty good custom ROM options if you chose to. Looks like you might be able to find one for roughly $190ish USD. I personally don't find that cost to be excessive as last i looked the ASUSWRT-Merlin community was still looking pretty good for this model.

There are a number of routers with DUAL/Multi-WAN capabilities. I personally have an ASUS GT-AC5300. The configuration allows me to enable and specify the DUAL-LAN type and port(s). Try to keep in mind though that this will not increase your throughput. You can specify it for load-balancing or fail-over. I'm not sure how this would react in the event of running out of your monthly allotted data as far as trying to use your secondary WAN as the primary due to speed limitations. This would still definitely help though if you have enough devices using the connectivity at once on a regular basis.

Ok... with the diagram that you've given, assuming there isn't a ridiculous distance from the storeroom to the PCs location and that you have a decent WiFi adapter in the PC, I would just suggest getting a decent router to put in the storeroom. ISP>Modem>Wall>Storeroom Wall>Router Internet Port This would allow you to have an independent connection from the existing WiFi, plus then you'd have a usable router for when you do move out as almost any purchased router is better than what you're issued by an ISP anyhow.

I've heard of similar issues on ASUS boards. They have a "BIOS Flashback" USB port on the back that allows you to update the BIOS directly with just the board. I'm not sure if ASRock boards have anything similar, but I would definitely try it if you're able to. The process on an ASUS board is to load the appropriate BIOS update file on to the root of a USB drive, put the drive in the port specified on the back panel, push the "FlashBack" button and wait for the light to stop flashing. Had to perform this once on my personal rig due to a failed BIOS update, took roughly 10 minutes to complete, but afterwords everything worked perfectly.

I've seen this issue personally and it can be frustrating. The issue that I found came down to the BIOS boot type versus how the USB Bootable was configured (UEFI or Legacy Boot). If this does not match up you will have issues. Windows likes to try to set up everything now for a UEFI environment, but if your system is not configured for it or does not support it, you will have to change how the bootable media is created.

Thanks for the reply. That's mostly what I had figured. I know the RT-AC5300 has open source firmware, but I'm not sure how open the firmware is on the GT-AC5300. I've used PuTTY for a couple permissions settings for USB drive access, but that's about it. Was hoping someone might be a bit more familiar with modifying the firmware through CLI. Anyhow, thanks again.

I'm trying to find a way to set my home network up to allow for PXE boot, but am trying to do so without the need for additional DHCP aside from my router. The router is an ASUS GT-AC5300 so I know I'm able to use CLI via PuTTy. I'm just not overly familiar with the CLI environment of the router. Pretty sure the only thing I need to be able to do is have DHCP define Options 66/67 to make this work the way I'm wanting. Any help would be appreciated.