rhyseyness

1 minute ago, Billy_Mays said:

Can your pc handle 4k gaming?

Does it matter?

Upscaling to 4k will make games at 1080p look better than on a 1080p display, without the power requirement.

Especially if this is going to be used primarily as a TV, I don't think this is important.

6 minutes ago, Sebastian Kurpiel said:

Hey guys, I've looking to get a monitor for my apartment. My current set-up has my desk facing my bed and I'm wondering if possible that I could use a tv instead of a monitor because I tend to play video games laying down in my bed and I figured the larger screen would be useful. I've been debating getting this (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=16C-000P-00177&ignorebbr=1) as the tv and if I had to go with a monitor I would get this (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-VA32AQ-1440p-DisplayPort-Monitor/dp/B01M10V28T/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501767322&sr=8-2&keywords=asus+32+1440). Is there any downfall to the tv? I could only think that when I code it may be a little awkward, but that's it.

Thanks for the advice in advance. 

 

Edit: I'm eventually planning on getting another monitor purely for coding,  one that can go into portrait mode.

TV's are slow when it comes to image processing.

They do a lot of processing before they actually send the image to the screen.

If you're super casual gaming, then it won't matter.

If you're playing competitive CS:GO, I wouldn't recommend it.

TV's can also be funny about the fomat of PC inputs, and you might have to mess with some settings to get it to work/look right.

TV's with "game mode" enabled can be a bit quicker (not monitor levels), but they won't look half as good.

Other than that, it'll be fine

Hope this helps

3 minutes ago, shezow said:

I've tried cleaning the slots, but normally they work fine after re seating without cleaning.

Interesting... Anything weird with your setup?

Is it extremely hot/cold/humid or anything where you keep your PC?

Other than this, the only thing I can think of is the module is not working correctly and needs a full reset (taking out motherboard) every now and again to reset it.

Is it during use that it changes or after you've shut down?

If it's only after a shut down a solution might be to sleep your PC rather than shut it down.

Does all software show it going to 4GB usable or just task manager?

Does it say 8GB is installed still?

Just now, shezow said:

The thing is, this happens on and off every month, and is temporarlily fixed by re-seating the RAM. I don't think the problem is with the sticks

Yea sorry, just edited my post

Sounds like a stick died... If it's all one stick, sounds like a component failed.

Got any other RAM to test with?

EDIT: Sorry just read properly.

Sounds like there's some crap either building up in the slot or on the contacts.

Have you tried giving both a clean with IPA?

Sounds like something is causing a bit of a dodgy connection between the stick and the slot.

Can't think of anything else hardware-y that would cause such a problem.

Hope this helps

1 hour ago, cluelessgenius said:

thank you. do you have personal experience with it or?

im asking because im not entirely convinced one 15 buck dongle is gonna be better than another 15 uck dongle.

I'm afraid not.

As I say, I have an aftermarket radio with built in bluetooth.

The reason I picked that over others is A: It has good reviews and B: It has volume control, which suggests to me that it's output is too loud for some systems (above line level).

Saying this, it is possible that the aux input on your head unit just isn't at the same level as the other "channels" (radio/CD).

If this is the case, and there's no adjustment available, then your initial idea of a small amp inbetween the dongle and head unit could be your best bet.

What's your car/head unit model and the bluetooth dongle you're using?

Could be a common problem with either.

Have you been able to test with aux directly between source and head unit yet?

2 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

well thanks for understanding but nobody here seems to understand what kind of recommendation i mean. its like if i was asking for a monitor recommendation and half the people go "no just get a beamer" and the other half is like "no yeah definitly get a better monitor"

can somebody please recommend me a specific hardware solution to all my problems?

Hope this helps:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Receiver-Portable-Microphone-Streaming/dp/B00Y29NXEA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501757130&sr=8-5&keywords=bluetooth+adapter+car

16 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

yes oem. yes bad. no not changing it. usually i would too but the way its integrated in the car id have a big screen in the  front with nothing on it and thats stupid. 

Yea I understand that.

I'd recommend either a better bluetooth adapter or aux connection (as everyone else did )

6 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

ok makes sense but me personally im not an audiophile i dont hear a difference with bluetooth and i dont think my car audio is that good anyway so idk i would like to stick to bluetooth for convinience. ill try directly and see.

 

any body have a recommendation for a "good" bluetooth dongle?

Sounds like your head unit is kinda bad tbh.

Is it OEM?

Have you considered changing it for an aftermarket one with bluetooth built in?

That's what I did and haven't looked back since.

2 hours ago, unknownmiscreant said:

Not sure you understand what I meant by "full range drivers" I mean a single speaker handling all audible frequencies, not 3 separate speakers in a single enclosure. I'm all for 3 speakers in an enclosure such as the JTR's you mentioned. If I had more space and budget I would do something like this myself.

Totally agree cheap things are bad. Thats why if I can't find something I like that is decent, I will make it myself.

By good full range drivers, do you mean a single speaker handling 100Hz to 20kHz? I have not in my life managed to find one that comes even close to separate tweeter, mid range and sub-woofer. The bose system that was left behind by the old owners of our house has a fairly crappy sub-woofer that struggles below 50Hz and has a single 2" driver for tweeter and midrange. It sounds like utter crap, and is easily bested in terms of fidelity and volume by the system I made, I equalized the sub-woofer so its flat to 30Hz, rather than highlighting the easy to reproduce 100Hz frequencies to make the system "appear" as though it has good bass. If you have managed to find a decent full range driver, please let me know, as I would like to build a speaker set that is fairly portable, and sounds better than crappy bluetooth speakers.

 

As for crossovers, I only warned against the single capacitor, as its a cost cutting measure taken on crappy products. It doesn't do very well, as the midrange driver is still fed a full range signal. Much better to have an inductor as a low pass filter on the midrange and a capacitor has high pass for the tweeter. Better in some aspects is a 12db per octave filter made up of a capacitor and inductor on both the midrange and tweeter. However some people dislike these as they can notice when voices change from the mid range to the tweeter. The ultimate solution is bi-amping, where a 24db/octave active crossover can be used after the preamp. This then allows the tweeters and midrange to have separate amplifiers, and for proper equalization of the sub-woofer, to allow a 15" driver to extend to 15Hz or below (provided the amplifier is powerful enough.)

 

As for your comments along the lines of "if its half decent it will have a crossover," that was exactly the point I was trying to make, to help OP avoid crappy speakers. If someone had told me that when I first got into audio, with a budget around the same or lower than, it would have saved me a fair bit of time.

 

I was also saying this, as alot of the really high end speakers are setup for bi-amping, so have separate inputs for tweeters and midrange. Just connecting these together and hoping for the best usually ends badly. Getting a crossover sorted requires some fairly advanced measurement of theile-small parameters of the speakers which requires a fair amount of specialist electronics gear. This can often be found in data sheets for new drivers, however it is often hard to find, particularly for old speakers. If you are looking at ported speakers, then the enclosure design also makes a difference to the frequency responses of the drivers. Even if you get this far, sourcing a pre-made cross over at least where I live is surprisingly difficult, and making one requires again electronics knowledge and tools, for soldering etc. As well as the inherent risk of frying amplifiers due to short circuits etc.

Yes, full range driver as in one driver from 100Hz to 20KHz.

It's all in the box design, much less the driver itself.

Putting a full range driver in a box which is designed for a midrange-tweeter setup, is like putting an open baffle driver in an enclosure.

Good box design+good full range driver=sound as good as a midrange+tweeter box... Don't get me wrong, it's a different sound, but by no means worse.

I agree with a lot of what you say here.

However, imo, this are only considerations to be taken into account at a much higher budget level than OP has.

I doubt OP will notice the difference between a 3rd order Butterworth and 2nd order Linkwitz! (Whether I could or not is questionable tbh!)

I don't think that at this budget range, the type of crossover is going to be make or break for sound quality.

The construction and driver quality are going to be way bigger factors than how bad the crossover may be.

4 hours ago, unknownmiscreant said:

Dont go full range drivers if you are after sound quality. Basic physics dictates that they do badly at both lows and highs.

Look for something that has dedicated mid-range and tweeters, preferably with a crossover. (A single capacitor is a bare minimum on this front).

That's really not true.

Good full range drivers are good full range drivers.

On the second front, not sure what speakers you've been looking at with a seperate mid-range and tweeter, which didn't have a crossover.

"Has a crossover" is not something to look for in a speaker.

If it's got seperate drivers and is half decent, obviously it will have a crossover.

OP, Dackzy has already been tagged, but @spwath can also help you out with recommendations.

In your price range you wanna go second hand hifi speakers.

What sub do you have? This will give us an idea of what you consider "really nice."

1 hour ago, OG_Mega said:

Suggestions on second hand speakers?

@spwath @Dackzy

Any suggestions?

(These guys will know far better than I do)

Go second hand hifi speakers and an amp.

You'll get a much better sound than what you'd get off the shelf from PC guys for that kinda money.

19 hours ago, Tacanacy said:

 

Yes, mix PC and PS4 audio to one output.

I need to use the DAC because PS4 has no analog outputs.

Ok, so no amp, but what about the part where anothertom said: "If we use an analogue output from PC then it's being amped at the PC, mixer and the magni "? The signal from the PC would be amplified multiple times...

 

19 hours ago, anothertom said:

Yes. Unfortunately motherboards don't have pre-amp outputs, so you can either use the headphone or line level output and not worry about it, or get a cheap USB DAC (but not a DAC/amp).

 

What you definitely don't need is a fancy DAC for the PS4 or an amp after the mixer. 

Motherboards usually have a "line out."

This is the output you should use.

The "diagram" I did above is what you should do.

I'll be shocked if the motherboard only has an amp'd analogue output.

If it doesn't have a line out, then yes, cheap DAC to get analogue outputs from your PC, to mixer input.

Then both PS4 and PC analogue outputs to mixer inputs and headphones connected to the mixer output.

Hope this helps

19 hours ago, Evolution90 said:

You did very well!

 

I could have got a R9 290 but was 180 and it was the stock reference one which is awful.

Stock cooler is awfuuuul.

I ended up changing it on my second 290x.

I did the same recently.

Went from a 660ti to an R9 290x which I got for £200.

Managed to get another one for £150 so crossfire 290x's for about £350.

Keeps up with a 1070 no problem

OP, I agree, this is supid.

I'm not quite as outraged, but this definitely makes no sense.

Even if everyone else seems to think it's ok, lol.

30 minutes ago, Tacanacy said:

I don't see the difference.

 

So, I connect the amp to the mixer's output and then the headphone to the amp via its RCA output? Even when reducing the volume on the mixer and amp, the audio from the PS4 will be much louder? Is there a way I can connect the PC to the DAC and amp at the same as the PS4 so that both are amped the same number of times? Will an optical splitter work?

 

Yes, my original plan was the DAC and amp before the mixer.

The purpose of using a dedicated DAC and amp is to get better audio quality... I've used an interface for music that costs many times more than the Just Mixer and even then I could hear a big difference in the quality compared to the Schiit stack.

What are you trying to do?

Mix PC and PS4 audio to one output?

That's what the mixer would be for.

If you're doing this, you need to connect analogue outputs from both the PS4 and the PC to the inputs on the mixer, then the output of the mixer to your headphones.

Mixer output to an amp is not advised, as the mixer has an amp built it.

If you connected this to an amp, you'd be amplifying an already amplified signal.

Not only could this damage your amp, but it's gonna be way too loud for your headphones.

WITH THE EXCEPTION OF PRE-AMPING, YOU SHOULD NOT BE AMPLIFYING AUDIO SIGNALS MULTIPLE TIMES.

Doing this will just introduce noise and also risk damaging equipment.

Are you using the DAC for converting digital output from the PS4 to analogue?

If the PS4 has no analogue output, this is the correct thing to do.

The mixer is going to be the lowest quality part of the audio chain, so you're not likely to see a huge benefit from using such a good DAC.

If you're doing this your audio chain will look somthing like this:

PC analogue out (3.5mm/RCA)------------------------>mixer input

                                                                                      |----->mixer output (already amplified)->headphones

PS4 Digital out (optical/usb)->DAC (3.5mm/RCA)->mixer input

If you're attempting to do something other than mix your PC and PS4 audio ouptuts, a mixer is not what you need.

15 minutes ago, anothertom said:

You don't need the DAC after the mixer, the signal is already analogue. You also don't really need the amp after the mixer, as the output from the mixer is already at a suitable level and you would be triple amping the signal, which can lead to issues. 

 

Do you actually mean to have the PC and the PS4 connected to the mixer? Rather than from the PC through the mixer into the PS4.

He's got the DAC and amp before the mixer, not after.

DAC before the mixer makes sense, but amp, not so much.

How do you know the mixer output is already at a suitable level?

Although, @Tacanacy, you say you're using the headphone output from the PS4 and the PC... this is an analogue signal so the DAC is doing nothing.

Just had a look at that mixer too.

The output is already amp'd so you'd be double amping if you used your amp too (not sure where you got triple from @anothertom).

Your DAC and amp really aren't any use with the mixer.

Your final setup should be PC/PS4 headphone out->Mixer Inputs-Mixer Outputs->Headphones.

This is assuming you're trying to mix PC and PS4 audio... not sure what else you'd be trying to do.

The mixer is 2 in, 1 out, so not sure how you'd be connecting your PC and headphones to the inputs...

If you're trying to record PS4 audio with your PC, and listen through headphones at the same time, a mixer is the wrong tool for the job, you need a splitter (way cheaper and easier, and you can still use your amp).

Not a clue where you'd be putting the DAC in any of these setups though if you're using the headphone output from both devices.

19 minutes ago, Tacanacy said:

The configuration is still the same. The PC and amp go to the mixer's inputs from their headphone jacks, at least that's what I'm thinking. I'm still unsure if this would work.

Yea, just makes it harder to understand what's going on.

Looks like your headphones are the audio source

PC and PS4 headphone out to the mixers inputs directly.

Amplify the mixer output, not the mixer input.

There is a risk you'll kill the mixer putting an amplified signal in.

It would work, but your PS4 (amp'd) input would be waaaaaaaaay louder than your line level PC input.

Kinda defeats the point of the mixer, as your PS4 could be at like 5% volume and still be louder than your PC at 100%.

Mixers are not generally for amplified inputs.

Usually, sound source -> mixer -> amplifier -> ouptut. 

Depends on the mixer.

Your arrows seem to be the wrong way round to me.

You should have the mixer before your amp, rather than after it.

Mixer is a line level device, not designed to be used with amp'd inputs.

Hope this helps

On 7/24/2017 at 4:29 AM, TheSinisterGamer said:

 

apparently their is a way to connect it without anything extra. I'm double checking on another forum that does system mods.

Oh there definitely will be.

I just don't know where the appropriate power rail is.

Most power rails on the board will only be "on" when the unit is powered up.

It's just finding one of these rails with enough power to run the pump (not trying to pull too much current from it), and is "on" from power on to power down of the system.

11 hours ago, Billy_Mays said:

DIY it's cheaper 

Have you ever built speakers?

You made it sound way too easy

Since your question has been answered (yes you need an amp, equaliser will be fine), I'm gonna go right ahead and talk about your speakers.

Have you listened to them?

I can't find a frequency response curve for them anywhere, which isnt' a great sign.

Having never heard them, I'd bet 2 weeks wages you can get more for your money.

5 hours ago, Billy_Mays said:

I can't drive to his house and not being able to get in because the door is locked I don't know much about them they look like they have 6" sub woofers and just RCA connectors that all I know and they're made by Toshiba

Google "Toshiba speakers" and send us a photo of the one's you have.

We'll try and find out what they are