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Everything posted by rhyseyness

  1. Haha! Volkswagen call it "Atlantic Blue," does almost look black in the photo though. I can promise you it's not that shiny at the moment! Waiting for it to stop raining to give it another wash... looks like it might be a while before that happens though!
  2. Long time lurker, rare that I post in here, but just got a new car so thought it'd be an appropriate time to start posting more regularly: Short story: I love it.
  3. I wouldn't try overclocking on ANY stock cooler.
  4. "Crackling" is bad. Sounds like you pushed a little too hard. Reset the CMOS, learn overclocking properly, then overclock and test properly. Just putting settings in you found online is a terrible idea. Every chip is different- learn the technique of overclocking, rather than copying someone elses overclock.
  5. No problem When I previously had an internal sound card I didn't have any problems. I gave that soundcard away because I didn't think I needed it, but then got the issue on the rear jack connectors. An internal sound card will probably still fix your problem becaues it's not on the same board as the on board audio. Crosstalk isn't so much of an issue between separate boards. Don't get me wrong, it can still be an issue, but it's harder for EMI to couple through air than through copper layers in a PCB.
  6. It sounds like EMI. It's caused by crosstalk from your signal/power lines which are working harder under load. I had the same problem with my mic input. The solution is a cheap sound card, preferably an external one. This will mean the audio isn't being processed on the motherboard so will be less susceptible to crosstalk from it. For me, I was lucky enough that my front panel audio connector was physically further from my CPU/GPU on the motherboard (less electrically noisy area), so I now use the front panel connector instead of the rear audio jack. However, this will often make matters worse as you're adding more wiring between the source and ouptut, which acts as an antenna. Basically, YMMV, but this solution is free so worth a try before buying a soundcard. If it doesn't work, a cheap soundcard (e.g. Asus xonar dgx) will likely solve your problem. Hope this helps
  7. Fans don't make an enormous difference. Ususally the difference with expensive fans is in noise level, not temps. You'll probably find your new fans are pushing the same amount of air as your old ones, just at a lower noise level. You can help by buying "static pressure" optimised fans for radiators, and other high resistance areas. Hope this helps
  8. THANK THE LORD I just found the problem. For some bizarre reason, windows had turned on a "colour filter." Took me forever to find the setting, and I stumbled across it by luck. Thanks for your suggestions everyone. As I suspected, stupid random windows setting. No idea why it turned itself on. Anyway, if anyone else needs it it's: settings>ease of access>colour filters. WHY IS A DISPLAY SETTING HIDDEN IN EASE OF ACCESS?! DAMMIT WINDOWS!
  9. Yea, I know that. Looking for any other suggestions before I do that. I'll run a disk check. CoD is now stuck in black and white too, so I'm not sure it's the source of the problem.
  10. So I've been wrestling with this for the last 3 hours. I can't fix it. After playing some CoD yesterday, I exited the game and my desktop (and any apps) were black and white (like, the whole display was stuck in black and white). I shut down not thinking much of it. When I started up today, windows log in screen all back in colour, all good. As soon as I log in, back to both of my displays back to black and white. No matter what apps/programs I tried, all black and white. Still in black and white right now. Whenever I boot, exactly the same, colour on log in screen (and bios pop up thing), then black and white as soon as I log on. Things I've tried: Uninstalling graphics driver and reinstalling. Booting in safe mode. Uninstalling and reinstalling graphics driver in safe mode. Uninstalling graphics driver and installing an old version. Plugging displays into the other card. Having only one display plugged in. Removing one of my two cards (290x's). Adjusting all possible colour settings in "AMD settings." Installing graphics drivers without "AMD settings." Changing colour settings in windows (control panel and settings). All show exactly the same issue. It's like the colour settings for the graphics card are borked, but only once I'm logged into Windows. As soon as I shut down and the "shutting down" screen comes up, I have colour again. All the hardware seems good, as colours display fine before I'm logged into windows. The colour even comes back when the "Do you want to allow this programs to make changes to your PC" prompt pops up. Then as soon as I click yes, the colour is gone again. I'm all out of ideas. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If you need any more information, let m know. I'd like to avoid uninstalling Windows. I'm hoping there's a setting I've missed somewhere that someone can point me to. Many thanks (disclaimer, I am definitely not smiling right now, lol)
  11. Or after ordering, and hope they have to honor it... sounds like they missed a 0.
  12. This. If not, you need a molex to fan adapter, but with that you'll have no control over the fan speed; It'll be at 100% all the time.
  13. Disagree. If a power supply is worth it's weight, over-current and over-voltage protection will save your components regardless of the power supply capacity. High wattage supplies will have higher rated components, so less likely to fail. Any over current that makes it to your sensitive components is likely to kill them. More current capacity doens't make them more likely to kill stuff. 50A through a short on your 12V rail is going kill components exactly the same as 100A will. All power supplies have the capacity to deliver enough power to kill components. More protection features will save your components, a lower capcity supply will not.
  14. More watts is not dangerous. More watts just means your power supply is capable of delivering more power than you need. Your system power will always be the same (i.e. yours will probably be about 350-400W.) You need your power supply to be able to deliver at least as much power as your system consumes. What people are telling you is that 850W is enough to power 2 1080ti's. If I were you, I'd be buying a high quality 500-600W supply. 850W is more than you will use, and your power supply will not be running at it's highest efficiency if it's capable of much more power than you're using. A HIGHER RATED POWER SUPPLY WILL NOT DELIVER MORE POWER TO YOUR SYSTEM, IT IS JUST CAPABLE OF DELIVERING MORE POWER. Hope this helps
  15. "Splice" is the word in English. The answer is no. DVI-D is digital, and VGA is analogue. The signals are not the same electrically. You'd be sending a digital signal to an analogue display, which wouldn't work. Sorry, but hope this helps
  16. Not sure how you can say this gives you a $3000 system. A) It doesn't cost anything like $3000 B ) There isn't a "$3000 sound" C) It sounds like you haven't heard a $3000 system Not a terrible review up until that sentence, lol.
  17. PUBG and Overwatch, job done
  18. You want a DAC, not that cable. Unless that cable has a DAC built in, it won't work. USB to DAC then 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable out of the DAC.
  19. Strongly disagree. Either get a good external DAC (something from Schitt), or a cheap soundcard. Anything from Fiio is not gonna sound any better than a soundcard, but will be more expensive.