b emoji
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Everything posted by b emoji
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I would recommend you use TX or Spirt "s" springs, and lube them with an oil like GPL105. But in the end is it really worth it to de-solderer all those switches to just swap the springs in those switches? Why not get some better switches or a better board?
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Kbdfans has a very good switch tester, with i think 72 switches.
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I own a grey rival 110 and it's alright at best. Sensor has no issues. Left and Right clicks are kinda mushy with quite a bit of post travel and the side buttons are too thin. The cutouts for the main buttons sometimes causes the two buttons to activate at once and causes the wheel to catch on it. I feels cheap in general. The model O and O- is a good buy but it's quite a bit more expensive. But imo it's worth it, it's much better than the rival 110 in every aspect.
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CherryMX Grey Keyboards? If not CherryMX Clear recommendations
b emoji replied to AnalogCanavity's topic in Peripherals
Any Leopold FC keyboard with Clears. But I would recommend you to not get Cherry clears. They're one of the last cherry switches that have to yet be retooled, so they are very scratchy. They also have very thick stems which sometimes causes keycap stems to crack. If you want something similar to Clears get Zealio V1s. -
My new Duck TCV3! Case: Duck TCV3 Black Alu + Acrylic Diffusion Plate: Silver Alu Switches: 68g filmed Gateron Inks lubed with 205g0s Stabs: Pretooled GMK screw in stabs, clipped, lubed with 206 Keycaps: GMK TA90
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I would recommend the Leopold Fc750r. It comes with the best caps on a sub 150$ prebuilt you can get. (Thick 1.5mm Cherry profile doubleshot pbt caps). The caps are much better than Ducky's as they are in a subjectively better profile (Cherry vs OEM), thicker, and are made from pure pbt (vs PBT on POM) and have sharper legends and cleaner injections. https://mykeyboard.eu/search/?q=leopold https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?c=171&l=product_list
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300$ for a tray mounted board? why tho? You can get gasket mounted cases + plate + pcbs for sub 200. GMK Olivia R2 is almost guaranteed to run. only 200? Many Kustoms (Korean-Custom or highend boards in general) can go into the thousands now. OTDS and TGRs are 2k+ usd. Keycults, Duck, LZ and many other kustoms or highend boards will sell for thousands aftermarket.
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0.50$ per switch for re branded kailh blues
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@sowon @Cyberspirit krytox lube doesn't come off easily. They will not come off with water or even alcohol. Your best option is to try and wipe them off with a microfiber cloth.
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You might have had a bad batch or something or maybe there's something weird with the spring. I have 70 Sakurios with 68g SPRiT springs lubed with 203g00 on slider, 204g00 on bottom housing and paraffin oil on springs and have not experienced such issues and the switches feel just as smooth as my inks and tealios.
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Give this a read. It's made my Krel, the dude behind switchmod Also this, it's one of the first complaints about the switches sticking.
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"The only time you'd need the extra 2 legs is if you were PCB-mounting and needed to hold the switch in place while soldering, which I don't need to do in my case since my PCB has hot-swap terminals." I disagree, there are quite a few cases where pcb mounting legs are still required, even when there is a plate present, boards like the Rama M60 have a loose plate cutout, and as such using plate mount switches will result in misaligned switches. It is still better to keep the legs in as they provide more stability and better alignment especially in hot swap boards. Even it it makes taking out switches harder it's still worth it especially if you want to reuse or resell the switches later on.
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If you need something really small I suggest checking out this GB, https://kb.ai03.me/projects/equinox.html, it's a staggered 40% layout but there is no hot swap pcb avail. Most hotswaps either use tray mount or an integrated plate which is another word for crap. The plate mounting method imo has the biggest impact on sound, and gasket/isolation mounted plates/pcbs have the best sound as in the case of the equinox, and tray mounts like the newer tofu boards have very inconsistent feel and sound and integrated plates such as the alt or gmmk have very pingy sound. Learn how to solder and solder in some mill max sockets if you need hotswap. For silent switches I suggest you check out silent inks, healios or make mx zilents (MX silent red slider in zeal housing).
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The C70 is better built with much better caps, but I wouldn't get either tbh. The KBDFANS KBD67mkII is better imo but you'll need to wait a bit for it to be restocked again.
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Logitech makes some nice mice, but stay away from their keyboards, especially their romer g boards.
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I would recommend you to get a board that is not tray mount (Other than maybe the Singa x TGR Unikorn), Try and get something that is top or gasket mounted those mounting methods are much more consistent compared to tray mount. The KBD67 mk2 is very nice and is top mounted but it already sold out.
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Anne pro 2
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@sowon it's good practice to break in your switches before lubing.
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@sowon break it in for a week, you should always break in your switches for a bit before lubing, I usually break mine in for about a month. Spring swap them, springs can have a huge impact on switches, especially linears, order some good springs form TX or Spirt (zeal springs are pretty bad), GON and Catweewee springs are also pretty nice but are not really in stock. Lube them with something else, try a thin coat of 205G0. You can also try MX Zilents (Cherry mx silent red/black stem in Zealpc housing) which have less travel and more mush compared to Zeals but some people swear by them.
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It might be the sticking issue many people including krel from switchmod had from the early Healios batches, they're more subdued in the later batches but are still present. There's something weird with gateron silent stems and many of them have a weird sticky feel.
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Leopold FC boards with Silent red switches, they have the best keycaps in the industry. FC660m = 65% FC750r = TKL FC980m = 1800 Layout Fc900r = Full 104 key
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@Den-Fi You really should consider getting some new springs for zeals, zeal has some of the worst springs.
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@Den-Fi spirt springs are pretty nice, i would recommend getting the 63.5g and 68g "s" springs, also check out TX springs.
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This is what my lube collection looks now ? GHV4 Thin lube, 3203, 203, 3204, 205G0, 206G2 Switches: Worn in vintage blacks & mx japan oranges
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Blues and other click jacket switches will take longer to reset due to something called hysteresis where the reset point is higher up compared to the actuation point. If you want something clicky without hysteresis try Box Whites, and if you want something more tactile Box Jades, or heavier Pale Blues/Navys
