sauronofmordor

Wh isn't Watts/Hours, It's Watts*Hours (or 3600 Joules, 1 Watt second = 1 Joule). Wh a measure of energy storage, not power draw. Power is measured as Watts (Watts = Volts*Amps, where for consumer devices the voltage is constant and the amps go up or down based of of how many Watts/power draw your laptop needs). To get how many watts your laptop consumes you need to look at TDP (Typical Power Draw) for your laptop, then multiply that by how long you're going to be drawing that power to get how much energy storage you need. We can get your average watt draw while on battery based off of how long your laptop lasts with it's battery's energy storage, but when you plug in the laptop you might end up using far more energy per hour due to losses and because your laptop might be less power conservative while plugged in.
 
Assuming your laptop actually last 15 hours using 83 Wh of storage that means you have a TDP of around 5.5 Watts. if you want to run your 5.5 Watt laptop for a full work week (40 hours) you just multiply watts * hours to get Wh so 5.5*40=220Wh of storage. This is a bare minimum though, you would definitely need more than that especially if you want it with any sort of reliability and planning for degradation of the battery. I would probably double that number and say that you need 450 Wh, I would suggest maybe a bit more than that to be extra safe. Also make sure your source can provide at least 2.5 amps at 100V, as that's the listed input on your power supply.

Wh isn't Watts/Hours, It's Watts*Hours (or 3600 Joules, 1 Watt second = 1 Joule). Wh a measure of energy storage, not power draw. Power is measured as Watts (Watts = Volts*Amps, where for consumer devices the voltage is constant and the amps go up or down based of of how many Watts/power draw your laptop needs). To get how many watts your laptop consumes you need to look at TDP (Typical Power Draw) for your laptop, then multiply that by how long you're going to be drawing that power to get how much energy storage you need. We can get your average watt draw while on battery based off of how long your laptop lasts with it's battery's energy storage, but when you plug in the laptop you might end up using far more energy per hour due to losses and because your laptop might be less power conservative while plugged in.
 
Assuming your laptop actually last 15 hours using 83 Wh of storage that means you have a TDP of around 5.5 Watts. if you want to run your 5.5 Watt laptop for a full work week (40 hours) you just multiply watts * hours to get Wh so 5.5*40=220Wh of storage. This is a bare minimum though, you would definitely need more than that especially if you want it with any sort of reliability and planning for degradation of the battery. I would probably double that number and say that you need 450 Wh, I would suggest maybe a bit more than that to be extra safe. Also make sure your source can provide at least 2.5 amps at 100V, as that's the listed input on your power supply.

Moster Hunter and sea of thieves are pretty good tho less recent

As a note a BUNCH of games are going to get released in the near future for upcoming holiday season, so you could also hold for that

Then Code:Vein Maybe? it's okay, tho it's multiplayer is more co-op than MMO (released 9/27/19 which was a week ago)
BorderLands 3 is good, tho also not really an MMO
Apex, but that's free so you probably would've already been playing it if you wanted
and the 3 above are AAA games, is that what you're looking for, or smaller?
 
Mordhau is okay, but I personally didn't super like it and returned it (reviewed overall positive, recent mixed)
 
Anthem got ripped on but it's actually pretty good, it's just not balls to the wall amazing it was promised to be
 
 

I really like Dark Souls 3, and while it's multiplayer is still decently alive it's shaved down to almost nothing but try-hards and twinks, but it also makes a great singleplayer game if that's more your style, and I'd also be willing to play with you if you want/need any help. you can look at ChaseTheBro on YouTube for examples of recent multiplayer. And it's not as hard as most people make it out to be, I promise most of the problems people face is that they rush through the game miss/skip half the stuff and are 20 levels below recommended then get creamed by the higher level bosses.
 
Other than that more traditional multiplayer games I'd suggest is Rocket League or Warframe, probably rocket league over Warframe tho cause you pay for Warframe with time and cosmetics, but mostly time it's as grindy or even more than Destiny.
 
local multiplayer I'd recommend Crawl, super fun irl party game, but it doesn't have online in the game
 
other than that there are tried and true games like CS:GO, Garry's Mod, RainbowSix, TeamFortress, most Battle Royales (Fortnite, PUBG, Apex), etc
 
edit: and Minecraft, dat's good there are some good servers out there

Yep, you're right you can still upgrade to the 9900k, and I realize now that I left some ambiguity in what I meant when I said upgrade, and that's my bad. by "future" upgrades I meant like 10th, 11th, 12th, ... generation processors, you can still upgrade all the way to the 9900k I just meant that in even as little as 2 years Intel's newest processors probably won't run on that motherboard, and so you'd be stuck in 9th generation, but with the slowing of Moore's Law you're right you can upgrade to the 9900k and it'll likely still be relevant in 7 years (if a little security prone) 

@Redrooster it uses the LGA 1151 socket, So probably a while, I believe their next generation is going to use it, and if not you can slowly upgrade to the i9 - 9900k as it becomes older and cheaper, and the i9- 9900k will likely still be useable in 7 years (for reference that'd be like using the i7-3770k, which was the top processor 7 years ago, but there will be better processors for LGA 1151 than the i9-9900k, so you're pretty good, and both AM4 and LGA1151 will need to be tossed out once DDR5 for RAM comes out (DDR4 is the reason for the AM3 to AM4 upgrade), and DDR5 isn't far in the future, so future proofing for both looks very similar.

You could open it up and look around inside for any obvious problems, but it'd probably be easier to get a new one.

It's the fact that you can easily overclock the 1600 along with better future-proofing (both in upgrading to new CPUs and games that can take advantage of multiple cores becoming more common) that makes the 1600 pull ahead. Otherwise, I would have gotten the cheaper equivalent (for gaming) i3-8300.
@Crunchy Dragon

@sauronofmordor Here is the best way to look at this upgrade from my point of view. Lets say you with the 8300 to save money but in a 12-18 months you want and can upgrade to a 1070/80 or 1160 for arguments sake, that 8300 will be right on the edge of being able to push those cards. but if you go with  a ryzen 1600 now you are set for at least 5 years hell even a 1400 would last you longer, and there is no need to oc out of the box you wait a couple months get your bigger power supply. couple more months go by you get another stick of ram. But if you go with a 8300 you are stuck with it, and when bigger badder graphics card is right for you you will have to spend a lot more to get the performance out of it. Also the wraith spire cooler is a excellent box cooler for moderate overclocking with very reasonable temps. 
 
@hazeyez can't see past his blue blinders, because if your budget was the main concern he would be recommending a ryzen 3 1300 which for the money is a beast of a budget cpu. 
 
But in the end buy what you want to buy not what anyone here including me suggests, its your money your gaming not ours. 

Don't forget you can get 3.7 on that CPU with ease, and you have a decent chance of it hitting 3.9 or even higher 

only 4 cores over 6+SMT, it will choke on anything past a 1060 and it's not an upgrade over your current i5.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($149.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($49.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($80.98 @ Newegg) 
Total: $280.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-07-31 19:28 EDT-0400

you can always find a used i7 4770/Xeon e3 1231 v3 and a PCI-e usb3.0 adapter instead to save a few bucks.