suzerain_00

UPDATE
Sorry for the long wait, the new mobo took a while in shipping. 
 
So here's what I have to report:
After uninstalling the ASRock AB350 Pro4 drivers and utilities and installing the MSI X470 Gaming Plus drivers I witnessed nothing fishy. All of my devices worked perfectly fine. I was getting perfectly clear audio (perhaps even a bit louder, I think the sound system on the MSI board is a bit stronger), running games was super smooth, I could capture screen recordings and encode video and I'd describe the experience as identical to when I had the ASRock board in the system.
 
The only issue I faced was Windows Activation. As your license is tied to your motherboard, I had to reinstall Windows with a new license. I am aware that you can attempt to recover the license, but unfortunately I was unsuccessful. 
 
But yeah, all in all I'd say that at least with my configuration everything worked really smoothly - swapping motherboards was perfectly fine. 
 
Thanks everybody! <3 

Yeah, at this point I'm thinking I best do a clean install. I still want to try without for a little bit to see if anything acts funny - I'll keep the thread updated if I witness anything funky  

I have never seen anything consistent.
 
It could range from nothing at all, to leftover software that the OS is unable to get rid of, to minor harmless errors (that appear at every boot), to random instabilities.

Tell me about it, my motherboard (Intel DH55HC) has started acting up, so I'm using a newer one (MSI H61M-P31/W8) for now.
Linux works without any issues whatsoever (my main OS), however I do not want to go through the hassle of reinstalling Windows on my spare hard drive (some troubleshooting utilities require Windows, especially when dealing with proprietary hardware/interfaces), so I plan on fixing my Intel motherboard (once I find another heatsink for it), rather than reinstall Windows (I also need PCI for my Firewire 400 card, amongst other things).

Better safe than sorry, that's for sure. But starting from scratch is soooo annoying  Best practice though, I'll be sure to do a clean install then.

Better safe than sorry, that's for sure. But starting from scratch is soooo annoying  Best practice though, I'll be sure to do a clean install then.

I always advise a clean install when it comes to adding a need OS storage like a ssd. 
 
As in in your case it’s only the mobo, technically it should work fine, but would
srill recommend a fresh copy of windows. Can never harm, cleans up the system too !

Guess we'll have to wait and see if Windows craps out from a mobo swap. Wish me luck!

I would imagine. I'll give it a shot without a complete reinstall and see how things go - otherwise we're starting from scratch

To chime on what @averagebilly had said, Windows can be very problematic when switching hardware, I have seen instances such as a situation where it worked after switching from an Intel based laptop to an AMD based laptop (I forget the brands, though they were different), as well as situations where switching the motherboard to another chipset by the same maker, from the same vendor (i.e. Intel Gigabyte to Intel Gigabyte), and it freaked out.
 
Hopefully everything works well, though I would still recommend a reinstall, mainly due to the leftovers usually causing small issues, even if the OS works as it should.

Have at it! Good luck.

Luck!

Guess we'll have to wait and see if Windows craps out from a mobo swap. Wish me luck!

I'm fairly sure it's the latter, but don't quote me on this, there are more experienced people to help you out.

Hard to tell. Windows can be picky about when you need to reinstall. Even if it works, I would still reinstall it.

Potentially yes. 

Its extremely rare to get a 60Hz display that can OC to 100Hz. Even then, most of them are not actually runing at 100Hz because of frame skipping.
 
You can get most 60Hz displays to 70Hz-75Hz...maaaybe to 80Hz if you are lucky.
The overclockability of the display is mainly dependant on its scaler. Buying better display cables, power cables will not help you at all unless what you have right now is an absolute garbage.
 
And as I already mentioned. Just because you tell the display to run at 75Hz and it appears that its runing at 75Hz, it may be skipping frames so you will actually not get 75Hz even if it seems like it.
 
No harm done in trying to OC the display though. Ive done it on every monitor for years along with my friend. We never experienced an issue. The OC of minitor is different than OC of an CPU. You are not messing with voltages and power here.
You just tell the driver to run at X and the monitors scaler tries to run it at X. If it cant, it will fail and revert to previous settings.

It's the monitors panel and driver circuits generally. You can also hit display cable limits. 

not sure, but long time ago when I played state of decay 2 it already works

RTSS can be updated for that.

mass really has minimal effect on cooling, you actually want as little mass as possible.
Energy = mass x heat capacity x temp diff
 
So if the design of Al block isnt too thin which affects conduction , it shall be fine.

All you need to do is have direct airflow over the VRM and you will be fine for all your overclocking needs. Inwin Mars + AIO is a pretty easy way to do it.

heat is all about rate of heat energy transferred.
surface area , temp diff, heat condction from heat source to surface area etc

I guess it depends on how much heat the VRM put outs.  Overall I would assume surface area is ideal, but may not be needed if the heatsink isn't saturated.  

if you know the mass, you can. They are mostly aluminium anyway, plenty of numbers for a block of aluminium.