SkilledRebuilds

AUTO uses basic rules like DLSS P for 4K and DLSS Q for 1080p, it's still a preset but its basic and doesn't actually change what it does based on other settings. It's a simpler preset for people who have no idea about DLSS, so its best practices are done for you.

Are you DAISY CHAINING the Power Connectors? IE 2x8Pins together chained to the same cable??? or 2x SEPERATE 8Pin cables used? Daisy Chaining 2x8pins in a single cable can cause these issues and using 2 seperate 8pin cables for EACH 8pin on the GPU can mitigate these issues if encountered. As I encountered this on my 2080Ti with 2x8pins on a single cable, moved to 2x8pins in independant cables and its working factory spec as normal.

Amber Lights Guide by Dell Diagnostics https://www.dell.com/support/kbdoc/en-us/000126021/a-reference-guide-to-the-dell-optiplex-diagnostic-indicators

Still rocking a good condition Samsung Note 9 (Linus old longterm phone) Besides a little burn in on white screens I can't see elsewhere, still rock solid for YouTube 1440p OLED, Atmos and all the functions I'll ever need from a phone.. battery still okay, relatively considering its age and Max 85% it's been charge limited the entire time. If I ever dropped it, I'd probably just get a used newer model note series.

This. 10850K and 2080ti would be a godsend for others but im chasing more GPU Power later this year I think. If what you have doesn't cause stutters via imbalance and works for you, who are we to say you should upgrade.

Sounds like just normal scene to scene variance, or CPU bound gaming (game engine)

He might mean the sudden 60 to 30 halving you used to get more often... mostly being covered by triple buffering or potentially other methods like VRR.

Task manager and various apps can read it wrong. Just use a lot more apps to check CPU frequency besides task manager and CAM.

I live in Australia's climate. 25-30*c room temps. 360mm AIO I use allcore OC 5Ghz 10C20T, no dynamic boosts or MCE or any of that, not that I mind it... I just use MCE Disabled as well as most power saving features, although its much safer to use those Speedstep idle declocking features than in years past... And. When I mention Voltage it includes Vdroop...aka +Loadline calibration when I speak of voltages.. Im talking LOAD voltage with LLC Vdroop, not idle voltages. You may want to verse yourself with LLC methods.. Best of luck, and by the way resetting to stock should have you at 4.9Ghz allcore with a reasonable voltage and a 56second turbo declock timer to starve off high temps and power usage.. but motherboards/intel tend to push much more than required to cover all bases/locations/boards. Some boards will Override this however... Undervolting is also a good idea, -negative offset voltages, something to research I guess, GL.

Tablets and phones usually share the GUI framework and menu/settings. Some apps (Youtube) will and some apps will not (Dex) trigger enabled or disables features. You won't know usually until you look deeper. And all phones/tablets have diff features to use, just check ur display settings and see if there is any AUTO setting or Powersaving on resolutions.

Whats the aim here,just more Mhz? Tasks won't benefit much from a tiny increase,the baseline IPC is strong enough. Because overall the tiny increase isn't going to do much unless your extremely CPU bound in tasks. Vs the expected GPU bound settings you're likely to be using in games and a few percent or less in allcore workloads no Gaming.

2 sticks are easier on the Memory controller than 4 sticks, was back then, is now still.

Some phones have power saving features that can drop resolution and refresh rate using default auto settings. I would suss your phones display options and see if any toggle switches mess with your resolution on the fly. Just a guess, not 100% this is it.

GPU's have some protections for furmark loads and it can be unrealistic as the GPU can detect that load type and back off the clockspeeds much more than any game heavy load will... You said BEAM will take your GPU to 83*c already so use that.

If your thermal pads were not completely destroyed and are relatively 100% intact you could keep using them, otherwise it's advised to replace them if they are not in the same state as they shipped. (You should note how thick they are (grab a ruler, 1mm? 1.5mm? 2mm?) as grabbing something too thick will affect it's cooling/assembly. Any thermal paste that is NON-CONDUCTIVE (Metal bad) (they should say so, or you can google "Is....('brand/model') thermal paste conductive? Let us know how it goes and your temps after the fact..

Yes because it just seems like typical wear and tear over the time of the card (factory paste) since it was made. It's not entirely difficult, just make sure to get the WHOLE DIE covered in paste (does not need to be thick, just have 100% coverage) so no hotspots are made. You can spread it out however you want, everyone has their methods, but overall..... it's not THAT serious, just a decent application will do. Some GPU's fro mthe factory have a cooler and "fan curve" to get a certain full load tempreture target (say 75*c) So when the paste gets on a bit, it's not unreasonable to see 80*c-85*c after many a years... A repaste (and de-dust) should get you closer to factory operation temps. It might seem daunting to do, it's not that bad.. really. Just clean the existing paste off and add a tiny bit of new stuff and spread it out. Visualize 1mm layer (or less) you don't want it too thick like 1.5mm+ (using your imagination) Sorry for the novel , but Yes, I'd repaste it.

Up until 83*c the throttle point it's going to turbo boost as much as it can, while every 5*c from idle....it will drop 15Mhz as thats how it's algorithm works. Balancing Power/Temps/Clockspeeds.. A new thermal paste application wouldn't hurt I'm sure. But it's within spec, iE Normal operation.

Intel Turbo boost is dynamic. HOWEVER, some motherboards mess with power limits, TAU time and various things board to board.... especially on pre-12th gen where Intel had lower power limits in spec. (125watts after 56 seconds of 250w usage) But it's normal for clockspeeds to fluctuate unless your doing an allcore workload. It's all within spec, if your temps are good, it's likely just fine, you can keep monitoring it's temps. My board asks me every time I go into the bios do I want to use 125w for Air cooling, 270 watts for Watercooling as a popup, people can easily just click to skip that and not realise they increased their limits. (Again, still within Intel spec)

5800X3D is known for higher idle temps than it's contemporaries, moreso noticed at idle than anywhere else. It's just how the CPU is designed. Battlefield (aka the Frostbite Engine) also is a heavy CPU title, many cores are in use and can also use AVX instruction sets which usually heat up a CPU moreso than nonAVX instructions. Again, just a CPU heater type game...

"User Error" was put on 99% early users effected as a blame shift.

Are we going to be drilling holes? I'd cut out a few places here and there...

WHAT IS YOUR GOAL with this overclock? You know you won't notice the 3-5% your likely to get right? Everyone's telling you the same thing for a reason. If you want to overclock, you should have bought a different CPU, which depending on the game, will probably still be slower than a game that prefers the 3DV-Cache. You bought the best out of the box solution.. so whats the goal in trying to overclock?

The software I mentioned above in my post does all the partitions as they are.,..during it's 1:1 copy. The copy operation doesn't take too long either, limited by the read speed of your HDD mainly... but still quite a fast operation. And no messing with drive letters or any other stuff, it just works 1:1 when you swap the boot order after the copy process.

Current Generation (Much faster CPU/RAM/SSD/GPU than the Xbox-One/X of previous generation) Xbox Series X (Dynamic or Native 4K) Xbox Series S (Dynamic or Native 1080p/1440p) Previous Generation Xbox One X Xbox One For your backwards compatible question I am not sure on the specifics... sorry.