SkilledRebuilds

I would choose 1440p 144Hz as itll be easier to drive it as games get more demanding over time on the same GPU. Nvidia has DLDSR modes enabling 4K 144Hz if you want it for easier to run titles, and can use DLSS in game as well. I went from Native 1080p75Hz (with DlDSR 1440p/1620p and normal DSR 4K) To Native1440p 1765Hz when I doubled my GPU power. DLDSR/DSR modes keep your refresh rate which is nice.

I'm saying I've had that for many years and nothing has happened across two systems with the same tiny click.

I have the same click on my current system (off and on), and I've had it before on another power supply/case as well, it's nothing to worry about, I had the previous system for 5 years nothing happened, and my current system is 4 years old, both did it, nothing has happened. The CPU Light going red could just be discharging itself when you turn off the power, but I'm not sure, never encountered it just a guess.

I said it's a current limit by definition, can you not read between the lines and see it for what it is, google ICC MAX and you get the answer right away, as I did that and first result has the answer on reddit "What is Processor ICC MAX", which has a detailed explanation, the second result on another website explains it again, and the third...and so on,. but your little "Should I say fuck it and Max it out" was stupid logic to even joke about, tweaking for the sake of tweaking without knowing what it does is dumb, I basically said so. but you can't handle the criticism for that. Get over it already.

Anyone can/should sacrifice resolution for playable RT frames, it's on the individual, not everyone is like you, not everyone is like me. The total user choice via various technologies that enable such things is what matters, it's up to him. He doesn't have to play at Native Res 175Hz he has all the refresh rates in between 60-175Hz to work with in any given game, he can use 3840 @with DLSS or FSR. ^I'm not saying he SHOULD, just that he has the option depending on HIS specific wants and needs. He said he'd be willing to up his budget if it was worth it, which is up to him, and deals can be found all over the place, depending on his buying options/location. I'd would also recommend 16GB at a nicer price point as well just like you recommended. Be it AMD or Nvidia.

Technology isn't perfect,, never will be 100% perfect, but I'm glad you have a better experience, which is great.

Oh so this is what you meant by your shit posting other thread you made later on... Why did you make the other thread when this exists..? Because no one cares or replied?

Shit posting... add more details of what you mean. Oh he did, in another post.. then why make this one?

15% - If you start with low fps it doesn't seem like much, if you start high it does seem like something, even though it's the same gain. 100FPS-->115FPS (So you can see the difference) 30FPS--> 34.5FPS (Difference is there, less pronounced, worth it? up to you really) It might allow for a better demanding experience (2080Ti pathtracing at 30-35fps with a controller, without it you might be dropping to sub 30fps) Worth it is up to each individual.. Power limits - By default out of the box it will be set to 100%, cards with higher power limits can extend further but not enabled out of the box.. This is my 4080 Super in pictures below. But my 2080Ti has a 126% vbios and goes from 300w to 375watts You can check it with GPUZ - the advanced TAB, and in the drop down list, the second option is NVIDIA BIOS which tells you more information inc power limits. You'd need a program like or similar to MSI Afterburner that allows you to enable the higher power limit slider (if available to you) and you can slide it further to the right for more power, at expense of temps/noise. My 4080 Super is 320watt, I could flash a new vbios but I have no need just yet.. plus it might gain me another 5-10% is all (dependant of clockspeeds it can pull off), but at cost of temps/noise/power usage. I did it to my 2080Ti and with an overclock, squeezed another 13% out of it. 300w to 377 watts (not always at 377 watts, more of an UP TO) depending on scene demand. in games with my 2100Mhz clockspeed on 2080Ti it would range from 300-350watts, if I kept the clocks at 2130-2160Mhz at 1.05volts it could bump up against the power limit and then drop clocks (affecting frametimes slightly) so I kept it at 2100Mhz at 1.0volts and it held that all day even in demanding 4K loads due to having enough power, and cooling with my radiator knowing every 5*c gain it lowers 15Mhz. Flashing a vbios onto a card without dual bios is risky enough, but you can recover it if you have an integrated gpu to still load windows on, and then recover. Plus running a diff cards vbios can mess with display outputs and fan speeds, sometimes it's just fine, it varies bios to bios, but if familiar with bios updating you just run through a few... But dualbios is less risky due to having a backup than single vbios. If you ARE looking for a gain, not just a replacement product, I would go with 4070 GPU with 16GB RAM, the 8-10GB cards are getting close to their limits or being exceeded. esp if you tap into Raytracing with higher VRAM demands, or texture packs in some games. Sorry everyone for the wall of text It just how I roll.

Before we get to that, please read the previous post, to which I've quoted below.. To make sure you are reading the right details of your computer, and then determine appropriate action. Cheers @unclewebb

Did you mean 100% USAGE or 100*C TEMPS.? Seems the few replies might think your talking about temps, but your title says Usage. So just to clarify... CPU Usage being 100% while doing little to nothing (when CPU is IDLE) could indicate some CPU Miner virus/malware.. CPU Temps being 100*c would indicate a bad cooler mount/install not being done right or a defecting pump.

1440p DLSS Q is 960p (basically 1080p) and it shouldn't really have such a negative effect vs what you stated 1080p 'stable' performed... It's weird there is a sudden shift when using DLSS but I don't doubt you, the game does have many comments/threads/articles about how bad optimization is. https://funk.eu/hrc/ This link is for HOTKEY Resolution Changer. It can sit in your system tray and you can assign hotkeys to specific resolutions... CNTL+1 for example 2650x1440p/### Hz and CNTL+2 can be 1080p ### Hz So it would be a Hotkey based change, as opposed to you swapping it every time with MANY more clicks, you can just use a hotkey of your own choosing. Should be near instant. FYI I've never used it since 5 odd years ago and I had a single monitor at the time, but hopefully it will do what you want.

DLSS/FSR in this game? They are the Nvidia/AMD upscalers, in their respective 'quality' modes it can use 67%/58%/50% of native resolution, boosting framerates.

I also have the similar setup.. 10850K OC platform with a 2080Ti OC the last 4-5 years.. 2080Ti (300w model) power limit can match and beat the 4060ti already.. 2080ti is a great GPU.. Bandwidth concerned 1440p the gap lengthens more over 1080p. A sidegrade but a worthy replacement. But if you want more performance (that's actually a gain) you'd want a 4070 or above... 2080/2080ti/4060/4060ti 2080Ti vs 4060ti 300w+ models hold 1920-2025mhz boost at stock 1.05v when kept cool enough. (Every 5*c = 15Mhz drop) from 30*c and up. I have a 370w vbios on mine to scale clocks up and no clock drop at 4K when typically power limited at 300w.. Mine is on the NZXT Kraken AIO adapter and water-cooled with 240mm radiator to reduce temps/clock drops due to temp. A lot different to most peoples but I love the 2080ti for what it can still do these last 4-5 years. 2080Ti even at 300w on air cooling can definetly hold its own vs the memory bandwidth crippled midrange today.. it sucks they offer little value over existing GPUs like 2080Ti/3070Ti/3080. I'd say you'd want a 4070/Super/Ti or better. Chasing a deal/good price on a 4070 or better would be an upgrade of sorts, but a 4060Ti not so much..

Once you find the sweet spot for your cooler,..there is really no point messing about tweaking with super tiny adjustments to 'get the most out of it' when in tasks you won't notice the difference between 100Mhz or 200Mhz. (less than 2-4%) if it even lets it boost that much anyway. As long as your temps and noise are okay, and performance is still acceptable, your good. Beats being at 100*c anyway. the more you lift limits, the closer it will be again, arguably with more noise as well.

Really my guy?....Hardly the main point... (tower cooler having more surface area than box cooler) that we already know... I was just saying it's not the best thickness cooler for trying to get the most out a 11700K, he should focus on power limits or temp limits being the main focus point.

You can punch in the numbers for PL1/PL2 instead of using the popups. It's not the thickest tower cooler though.. I'd hazard it won't keep up with 188watts that well when it's fully heat soaked and adding in GPU temps to the mix, airflow in the case another factor. OP - Instead of 125w/250w or 125w/188w you can try 140w/180w or 125w/180w, even 125w/165w it all depends on what your cooler can handle... Lets say your cooler can dissipate 160watts, you can very well set 140w/160w or 140w/188w and keep the Turbo Timer (PL2) at 56s or even lower it. Depends how you want your processor to shift clockspeeds, if you want it bursty in clocks or relatively fixed.. Most games will run around 30-120w max depending on processor loads and how many cores it really uses (Shader caching example of 100% workloads for minutes or less), many games will be keeping boost clocks relatively high with minimal CPU usages under 30-50%, and your bursty workloads too.. like web browsing, clocks won't drop much. But long workloads, it will drop 'some' clockspeed and voltage to reduce power once it hits the target power usage,..and then temps will drop using lower clocks/voltages. Motherboards can do some weird AUTO stuff as well, most of your settings are on AUTO, allcore being set but still appears to be using the Turbo mechanisms, enhanced turbo at auto, could very well be enabled or disabled.. Power limiting is the easier method of keeping it in line, as is the TJMax at say 80-90*c not 100*c as a separate use case function you can play around with.

I did this with my 2080ti and God of War was borderless fullscreen, limited to 1080p to I set desktop to 4K (keeping my refresh rate is a nice bonus to DSR modes) For hotkey switching... Try this. https://funk.eu/hrc/

I said in my post it's a current limit,.. try reading the whole thing next time. That you should learn what things are before outright maxing them out. Which you now agree ^ but didn't think of this when making your joke seen below, it didn't even come across as a joke, but ill give you the benefit of the doubt. You could have googled ICC MAX and found out in 10 seconds as well what it was. I did answer, whether you felt attacked the way I did so or not isn't my concern, It's a valid response and clearly you should apply critical thinking and learn the basics at least before you just DO things.

1440p Vote, when in doubt or need more fps/performance use DLSS/FSR at Quality or Balanced or NIS in the control panel for Nvidia cards (Nvidia Image scaling if the other two are not available) Can still look a lot better than 1080p Native with TAA Antialiasing, as FSR2 or DLSS will override TAA with their own algorithm for a cleaner image, even at 1080p upscaled (typically)