MooseKnuckle

When I got Ctrl r at startup, I do get a raid setup but no nvme options. When I plug in my 3 SATA drives, they show up there. Would it work if I lost Windows on my SATA drive, then configure the nvme drives from Windows and try installing it again on the raid?

This motherboard does support it. There is a video detailing the process with the same mobo, cpu, and SSD, albeit 500gb version. I'm literally just missing the option to setup the raid. Returning is no option anyways. I bought the hardware almost 2 months ago when I was overseas, and then I got extended so I'm going to work with what I got.

This is my first time attempting a RAID so I could very well be missing something Asus ROG Crosshair VII 2X 250 GB Samsung Evo 960s NVME the drivers are recognized and I did get Windows loaded on one of them just to make sure. I have since formatted the drive. All other driver are disconnected Latest BIOS installed (0601) however I tried 2 older versions So there videos I watched have me hit F11 to enter EZ tuning wizard. There is no RAID option there, only the OC I also went to advanced- SATA Config and changed SATA to RAID and enabled NVMe mode. Where do I go from here? Thanks.

Schiit Stack is a popular one. I bought the Topping A30/D30 stack off mass drop for the same price range. Similar performance as well. The cool thing with the Toppin is that the Op Amp is easily replaceable to give you a different sound. I have a pair of Burson V5is in the mail to give the amp a little better quality. Otherwise, you can get another S.M.S.L?

Can you get your CPU temps?

You should be safe pushing the Voltages a little higher if need be assuming you maintain temps. The price of a better cooler may make up for a portion of the performance gain. This was my thought process. Drop in a $130 water cooler to push another year or 2 out of the cpu. Cheaper than buying a new MoBo, CPU and DDR4. a $100 air cooler will do just as well though. Options to keep in mind if that is something you are willing to do. Also, if you are comfortable with the process, you can try delidding the CPU. Should drop your temps a fair bit.

Sure, it's good, but that also depends on what you are using it for. It should include the cooler if you are buying it new.

Do you have a local shop that will price match. I build using pcpartpicker, bring the sheet to the store (Memory Express; Western Canada), and they price beat everything. It's an option if it's available to you anyhow.

An m.2 interface card slotted into a PCI-E slot should work for you.

850W is more than enough. 750W should do, but having more isn't necessarily bad, especially if you will be overclocking. Speaking of overclocking, will you be doing this? If so, going to the 280mm or 360mm may be a worthwhile investment. NAS HDD might be a bit overkill? Is there a reason why you are putting in a NAS drive? As far as I know, the NAS drives are just more vibration resistant for all the spinning that goes on in a NAS rack. If the budget allows, you can look at 3200MHz RAM as that is considered the sweet spot, but RAM is soooo expensive right now. Regardless, the setup you have now looks good. That should run you well.

I remember back in '95 when I got my first PC. It was a Compaq Presario with a Pentium, 90MHz. I tried upgrading it to a VooDoo2 video card, but I couldn't. Fast forward 23 years, and I have a custom built, water cooled, R7 2700x with 1080 Ti. We all start from nothing, and with the proper support and determination, we can achieve great things. So yea, the response from Fixinit1 was uncalled for. Let's better supportive here, and help the kid out? In any case, I would agree with the suggestion given above. Buy a reasonably cheap case, and transfer the components and fit in that 1030. Should run you $50-75.

I agree with Srnewbee here. An external DAC/Amp Combo is far superior than Motherboard solutions or even what comes in those Skull Candies or even the $400 beats. I would personally recommend something like the AudioTechnica Ath-M40X @ around $100 or if you have the budget, upgrade to the M50X. Pairing this up to good motherboard audio or even a simple AMP like the Fiio E10K. Generally speaking, headphones with built in amps, tend to no be of the highest quality. The Audio community is rather pretentious, and as such, most higher grade head phones would negate the built in amp. Perhaps I am mistaken here, but that is the general rule. There are of course countless possibilities here, and you can end up spending a lot of money, but if you want to be "spoiled," going the route mentioned is they way to do it. Another drawback to having an amp built into the headphones is the extra weight. After long hours of listening, this can make a difference. Is there a certain budget you want to aim for so we can give some suggestions within this price range? Are you dead set on the built in amp, or are you willing to go with an external amp? I you listening on the go, or are you at a desk? As an example, I can tell you what I run, which is by no means the be all end all. At home at my desk, I use Sennheiser HD 650s connected to the Topping A30/D30 Amp/DAC stack which is connected USB to my computer. On the move, I use the AudioTechnica ATH-M50X with the BAL-50 Bluetooth/amp accessory, wirelessly connected to my phone (Pixel 2). This is also an option as it gives you standard headphones, but with the option to attach an amp/Bluetooth receiver. Many possibilities. Let us know how we can help you out further.

I see where you are going with the NVMe setup then. That makes sense, but again, I have no experience with that interface car, so hopefully someone can chime in and help. If you already have the h105, that is perfectly fine, in fact better than the average user. You should be able to get decent overclocks using it. Back to the RAM. If you are doing recording/rendering on the machine, you should look up your specific use case, and see if RAM plays an important factor in performance, either in speed, latency or both. Better RAM in most cases gives marginal gains, but certain workloads can benefit. Prices are steep right now, so it's understandable not wanting to go crazy with this right now.

Is there a particular reason that you want a built in amplifier?

It's all speculation. It could very well be the case, but it is also likely a refresh, so maybe not so much. It is said to have GDDR6, so memory speed will be a determining factor I think. We will just have to wait and see.

I couldn't speak for the interface card, but the rest of it looks to be alright. I'm sure someone could expand on this, but the Maximus X Hero has two NVMe slots. Could you not just use that instead of the interface card, or are you looking to RAID more than 2 drives? If you plan on Overclocking, did you check to see if your memory is Samsung B-die? You can copy the part number and Google search it, and it will tell you. It costs more and doesn't give you a huge performance increase, but it could be something to consider if that is what you're into. You can also consider going to the Corsair H110i to get a 280mm radiator over and 240mm, albeit thicker, radiator. The S340 can fit a 280mm in the front panel. I have mine setup this way. These are just suggestions of course. Your build otherwise looks very good, and you should be happy with it. One final suggestion would be to use http://pcpartpicker.com, to not only find your best price, but it will also tell you of any incompatibilities.

I recently switched to PIA from Tunnel Bear as my subscription ran out. I do a lot of work overseas, so a VPN is a must have for both security and access content. I have to say, PIA is a much cleaner experience than TB and it's cheaper. I found TB tried too much to be cute with their GUI, however it caused a lot of crashes both on Windows and Android. PIA is a lot more stable.

A 1070 is fine for 1440P gaming. If you want higher refresh rate gaming, you can certainly consider going with a better card. The 1070Ti is a decent choice if you are willing to spend the extra few minutes to overclock it to near 1080 performance. As for your monitor setup, it can be very subjective. I can say though, that most who go to ultra wide swear by it. But then again some people don't like it at all. There is a significant premium to go ultra wide however. I would suggest looking up some videos on the matter, or even going into a store to check some monitors out for yourself to try to get a general idea of what you'll be comfortable with.

Thanks for the replies. Most things I find on the net don't specifically target the 1080 Ti. I've seen 1080 and Titan Results. I expect them to be in the same ball park. I am more so looking for reassurance that I haven't made a bad decision.

I think I will be fine, however I wanted the opinion of the community on this one. I'm putting together the following system; Asus ROG Crosshair VII 2700X 1080 Ti 2x 960 Pro NVMe (RAID 0) So this MoBo will support NVMe RAID, however it will drop the x16 PCI-E slot down to x8 speed as a result. Will this incur and performance penalties on my GTX1080 Ti. Thanks for the help.

I would definitely try out a different driver. It is an easy enough fix. Does it do this in all games? Can you test this out with older/newer titles, DX11/12/Vulcan?

It comes down to cost/performance. Tech Deals posted a video comparing the 3 and 6Gb with recent games. He summarizes that the 3gb in most cases, gives you better price/performance, however the 3gb will be a limiting factor in some games. The 6Gb will also be more future proofed. It comes down to a couple of other factors such as resolution and graphics detail. As long as you are at 1080p or below, and are willing to reduce some texture quality, the 3Gb will get you by. You also have to consider the person's willingness to upgrade. If you plan to use this card for the next 2-3 years, the 6Gb is the smarter choice, however if you just need something now to tie you over for something better a few months to a year down the line, a good deal on a 3Gb isn't necessarily a bad choice.

Have you recently update your you graphics drivers? Try using an older driver, however use Display Driver Uninstaller to perform the operation.

I've had this with my 1080Ti. It is always driver related. Use Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU), and perform a fresh install of the last drivers you know were working right. If you can't remember, start with a driver that is 1 or 2 iterations old. The funny thing with this issue, is that a screen shot will not display the artifacts.

If you already have the PSU, try it out and see what happens. If you haven't purchased the PSU, consider something a little better.