d3sl91

owever, this all raises a question. Do you watch TV using the TV's tuner? Or do you use an external box or only use it with a blue ray player or gaming console? If one of the above, you could get one of these and use a bunch of adapters. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Extractor-Splitter-Multi-Channel/dp/B01DZXQV4M/ref=pd_sbs_23_12?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DZXQV4M&pd_rd_r=5ZA25VB4M0XE0HT316D7&pd_rd_w=NaNq5&pd_rd_wg=RR1xE&psc=1&refRID=5ZA25VB4M0XE0HT316D7 but at that point I would 100% recommend an $80 visio soundbar, or find a used A/V receiver

Unfortunately not. The first one is for a camcorder to provide Video and Audio output from the camcorder into a TV. The second is video only, providing HDMI to Component video (Component video separates out the red green blue video signals - its an older option for HD that was replaced by HDMI). The third is who knows what. But its proprietary for sure and wont help much.

Can you provide a link or picture to what you are talking about?

Does it have a headphone output? I cannot tell from the pictures, but according to the manual I found online it should. That will be your best bet. Of course, that could only be used with the stereo input of the creative speakers, so you won't be able to use Subwoofer or Surround speakers (unless you try the splitter method that @Dutch-stoner mentioned above (which as he says isn't ideal and isnt true surround). As far as I can tell, that TV has no options for true surround output. Usually this would be an optical audio port. If it doesn't have a headphone output, you can TRY this: https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE but it may not work, sound too quiet, etc.

"On the road" to me means a longer than normal trip. I have a Tenba DNA 15 bag that always has: 1. Macbook Pro and charger 2. D750 + a Lens 3. Large USB Battery Pack 4. A charged extra phone battery, extra camera batteries, extra AA and A batteries, and associated chargers 5. FT1XD Ham Radio/GPS Tracker and charger/batteries. 6. Tenba Cable Pouch with every cable I'd ever need, and headphones 7. SD Cards and 256GB USB SSD. Sometimes it will have: 1. Gorillapod 2. Bluetooth Mouse 3. Android Tablet

Check out http://www.arrl.org/getting-licensed - you can find local radio clubs that will be more than happy to help you learn, get a licence, build better antennas, etc. As for listening, you can head to http://www.radioreference.com/apps/db/ to find a list of frequencies used in your area. This will list both Ham Radio frequencies, as well as Taxis, hospitals, businesses, etc. Actually talk. There are no two-way communications in most analog situations that would let others know you are listening. Its not like an online chatroom where you can see "whos online". However, transmit very long and on the wrong frequencies and you can be found and fined for illegal use.

I am very interested in what exact pack they used, @nicklmg But, depends on the pack, some may have proprietary connectors for power. However many use a pretty standard 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC jack. On the cablemod controller side, the controller is more or less the same as the controllers you can get for pocket change on ebay, and they all use 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC jacks as well so I am making a guess that they use the same. So it's pretty simple (click for affiliate links to amazon): 12V Output Battery Pack (not your normal cellphone pack) > Male - Male cable with 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC Jacks > RGB Controller (From cablemod or other) > RGB strips

Yep, that's it. Its a somewhat scratchy feeling. It doesn't bother me, but its noticeable.

These do seem lighter than the K70s. That could be it actually. I may swap out my K70 caps and see how they feel. I liked my K70, but most of the LEDs died within 2 years and the receipt was long gone so I can't get it replaced by corsair. Just Checked, and no.

There are also very cheap 120v to 12V Molex power adapters. Here's one for $15 https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC With this, you can plug directly into the back of a normal fan controller that uses a normal molex connector - no need for splicing.

But the fans and most controllers run off the 12v portion of molex connector, they do not use the 5v at all. So you could just use a 12v source.

Yup, One of the computers I built for a customer years ago had 2x DDR2 and 2x DDR3 memory slots, fun stuff.

Well, If you use 120V (or 220) from the wall, you will have to convert to 12V for the fans at some point. Meaning, you can use any standard fan controller you want. Wall Outlet > 120/220v to 12v AC-DC Adapter > Fan Controller > Fans

Yeah, that's probably the issue! 1151 socket uses DDR4, anything before is usually DDR3, DDR2 etc

What type or Ram? DDR3? DDR4? The H110m uses DDR4

Hey All, Just got a new G610 to replace my older Corsair K70. Both had Cherry MX Red switches, however the G610 is MUCH quieter (probably because of the way the keyboard is made, the 610 is more classic with plastic over the metal backplate), and, almost feels "mushy". Its not a big deal, just wondering if something has changed in the Cherry MX Red's that would cause that mushy feeling?

The Turbo has a DVI Port, which could mean it has a Custom PCB. Founders is always going to be the same PCB, Layout, etc as other card manufacturers for those wanting waterblocks etc. This could be why this card exists. It could be a non-reference PCB in blower style.

Probably just a bad cable - this happens occasionally. Return to amazon for a refund and get another one to see if it works.

All Xbox One controllers are compatible with all versions of the Xbox One. All Xbox One controllers are compatible and usable on Windows 10 PC. All can be plugged in Via Micro USB cable or using the Wireless USB dongle. The newest one also has bluetooth connectivity if you would rather use that for tablets etc. However, for bluetooth you must have Windows 10. I cannot promise what you linked is the same as the Xbox One S version - but it sure looks like it.

Thanks for the rating and resources! Someday, we hope that we will be booked with a couple who actually cares tremendously about the photos, and be willing to spend hours of their wedding day with us so we can set up a proper shoot. I feel like that is a big difference between what we have done so far and what others may have the ability to do. Getting started, (this is our 3rd wedding since our first this fall) we are cheaper photographers who take photos of cheaper weddings. It's a goal to grow from here, and every shoot we do is better and better in what we are able to do, and what we know to ask before the shoot (aka, recommend more time for the shoot, etc). This shot, for example, was (as you guessed) one of many of the two, done with a variety of lenses and perspectives. However we had 30-45min with them total between the time when the church was open to us and them and the time we needed to shoot some bridal party shots. Not ideal, and can be very frustrating to have ideas, plans, etc that get axed because of time. However, they didn't seem to mind - and if they did its a simple fact of you get what you pay for (in terms of dollars and time). Good point on the eyes too, I'll pass that on to my wife as we process this shoot.

Not really sure if I am missing someone to rate, it looks like @AkiraDaarkst rated the photo above me already Here is a picture from a recent wedding my Wife and I did. We are not used to using cars in photos, and we didn't have much time to experiment before the bride almost froze to death - so any tips on utilizing cars with couples (or singles) would be helpful.

Pretty simple, I have fields in excel that read [1 h, 21 min] and I want to convert that to HH:MM so I can add them together. Or, if there is a better way: For reference, I am adding up how much time a list of people spent in a program. So, Student A spent 1 h, 20min and Student B spent 1 h, 9 min. I need to add them together and show that the total is 2 h, 30 min Thoughts?

Okay Edit: Sorry, I'm coming off as a bit of an ass. I am posting this in a forum with mostly like-minded tech enthusiasts, and would not have to worry about anyone around here from purchasing the device if I included a link - you are correct. However my thought process originally had me not posting a link due to being frustrated with the funding and existence of something like this in the first place. Hence why I didn't link. Was a bit of a fine line in my mind between making people aware versus promoting. I actually thought that if I included the kick-starter link to the live kick-starter that I would be criticized for doing that.

Good point, I have added that it is a 3.5mm Bluetooth Adapter. However, I had no interest in posting a link myself to promote the product any more than necessary.

<rant> Instead of true innovation and progress in the tech world, we are inundated with regurgitated crap like this: A $40 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter that has been on amazon for $10 or less for YEARS. Seeing the fact it got funded to the tune of over $750,000+ on KickStarter is sad, sick, and depressing. Add in the fact that likely the backers will be without any reward for their hard earned money for months. And then add in the fact that its promoted by sellouts "Tech Blogs" like Gizmodo and Mashable - who should have just said "No, sorry, this is overpriced, useless, and regurgitated tech, we wont post anything about it". Yay Humanity. </rant>