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d3sl91

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Everything posted by d3sl91

  1. Hi All, I am building a small ITX system that I need to run at 12V (Due to being used in a situation where other gear is also operating at 12v). I am using the Asus Prime H310T, which is a pretty unique motherboard that is used in AIO type installations. It is unique, in that it uses either a 19V or a 12V DC input, rather than your typical PSU. https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/PRIME-H310T/overview/ The manual states: "Use a 90W adapter when a 35W (T-Version) CPU is installed on the system. Use a High-rated adapter (Above 90W) when a high-rated CPU (45W or higher) is installed on the system. I plan to use a G5400 (54W). My question, is am I correct in assuming that it would require the same wattage regardless of voltage? Or is anyone else familiar with these who can tell me otherwise?
  2. Hey All, I have been overseas for the past year, and have been out of the loop for about a year and a half when it comes to CPUs, specifically. My wife and I are headed back to the US in a month, and my wife mentioned wanting a desktop once we get back, with the primary function being heavy Lightroom and (very) minor video editing. Lightroom will be a money making use of the system, so, is the primary focus. How do the current AMD vs Intel offerings stack up for a Lightroom user? How much of a hit do I get for going with a Ryzen 5 CPU or an i5 vs something like an i7 or threadripper for Lightroom? Normally I'd spend hours researching this stuff, but I simply do not have the time right now. So, give me some recommendations on CPUs, and even builds! Location: USA Budget: $800 USD (Flexible, but, this is the target at the moment) Don't need any peripherals. Smaller the better (ITX or mATX preferred).
  3. Usually, yes - but Watts = Amps x Volts, so, in this case it is actually going to draw a maximum of 5W total. Which still doesn't = what the speakers are, but, the point the video is making still stands. Vizio doesn't readily give any wattage rating on their website - probably not a selling point when most of the target audience came from the "I just bought a 1500W home theater system for $250 for my rear projection TV" era and would laugh at "5W Speakers".
  4. Bought that model (or similar) for my parents, because while they like "good sound", they don't want to spend the money or effort for an actual system. 1. It works great, looks nice when mounted to the wall under their TV. 2. It has a subwoofer output, so, we just plugged in the powered sub from their old "HT In a box" system, and instantly got an even better sound. A trip to a local thrift store can score you an adequate sub for $20 or less. Just stay away from pretty much anything other than Vizio unless you are spending $200 or more. It seems that most other brands in the < $200 range suck compared to Vizio (Bought a $150 Sony bar, and then a $125 panasonic before returning both and getting this vizio for $75).
  5. Heres the thing though, by giving out completely free services, you are setting a precedent. If you do plan on trying to make money off of this, you will need to start charging people real money - or else you will be known as "that guy who does cheap work". Not "That professional I know".
  6. In my area, and at a shop I used to work at: Services: Diagnostics: $60 (not charged if you do the recommended repairs). Virus Removal and Tune: $150 Tune: $80 System Setup: $50 Al la carte: OS Installs: $120 Hardware Installations: $40/ea Software Installations: $40/ea Data backups or transfers to new drives: $70 per 100GB, cap at $250 There were other services, that I am forgetting exactly how we billed them - such as weird non-routine repairs. Likely we just did the hourly rate for the labor. Such as, tearing down a laptop to replace bad power jacks, screens, keyboards. Alot of those intensive repairs were billed at an estimated hourly rate. $80 minimum for the labor, + $40/hr after that. But really, you need to base your prices off of how much you need to make in order to at least break even. A shop has much higher operating costs vs someone in their garage fixing computers, for example.
  7. Hey All, First, no, this is not about Android Auto. As nice as android auto headunits are - I have no need for one. This is about head units that are running a version of the Android OS. I am wanting to get one for a few reasons, primarily I am a geek, and want to run android apps on my car's headunit, and have a built-in hotspot that is connected to an external GSM antenna so I can have a data connection even in remote areas. I am also a ham radio operator, and I am wanting to run the APRSdroid app to plot the locations of nearby ham radio operators/stations/igates/digipeaters/etc on my headunit instead of an extra phone on my dash. More Info About This Here Here is an example of what that looks like: Here is what I am currently having to do (two phones): All that just to ask - who has used one of these Android head units with good success? In most cases I'd be running multiple apps at once (APRS App, Normal Navigation, Music, etc) So at least 2gb of memory, a quad core and Android 7.0+ (for multi window support) would be preferred.
  8. Do you hear this constantly, even if he for sure is not playing any videos in the background? If you do, he is likely getting RF Interference from a local AM or FM radio station. This is actually very common. So, I'd recommend looking up guides on how to eliminate RF Interference. This is usually because all the cables plugged into the computer, are antennas and are happening to pick up the strong Broadcast Station's transmissions. Here are some suggestions off the top of my head. 1. Try unplugging everything from the computer, every cable, and slowly start pugging them back in and see if the sounds are gone, and come back when a specific cable is plugged in. 2. If you do find a cable that causes the interference, you can snap on a ferrite bead, or buy a cable with a ferrite bead already on it. Ferrite beads stop RF from traveling along a cable. 3. You could try a USB soundcard. Again, using a USB cable that has these ferrite beads on it. Ferrite beads - those black cylinders on the cable: Source: I am a licensed ham radio operator, We deal with this stuff alot. (But, I don't know everything....)
  9. I currently live in Madagascar. The power goes out occasionally, and is very expensive. As I write this, the power has been out for 2 hours. Because power is expensive, and not always available - many people in villages use solar panels to power a light, charge their phones and maybe power a radio or small TV. In the cities, most have solar as a backup option for when the power does go out. It is actually very, very easy to get started with an independant system. Many folks around here have zero knowledge about electricity and how it works and yet they have them. When it gets hard, is when you build the entire system yourself from scratch, and/or you are trying to power a whole house and integrate with your grid power. You can pick up multi function solar charge controllers that will have, all in one unit, a solar charge controller to charge the batteries, an inverter to convert from DC to AC. They will also often times have 12V connections, as well as USB. This, plus some panels and a battery will get you started. Example unit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZJMM6H/ref=twister_B07BD29KM9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I would also recommend looking up various Ham Radio resources. Many, many hams are running their equipment on solar power - either as a portable field option, or as an emergency preparedness setup.
  10. I need to try acclimating it better as you mention, and test it out every day. See if its how I store it that is causing the issues. However, I do think its humid and hot enough here to cause additional issues regardless of trying to acclimate - but we'll see! I bought this camera years ago, and have used it a few times - but now that I really have a need for a rugged camera - I'm wishing I had used it more, and now want a better one! I like Sony's cameras, and yeah, I wanted that attachment too. May see if its on ebay cheap when I get back to the states in November or January.
  11. Thank you, Doing some research on those inserts, and what they solve is exactly the issue I'm having. So, I will be trying out the different methods people have come up with since I don't have access to those inserts here. If I wasn't using it while riding a motorcycle on backroads and trails I would just go caseless - just too much dust and dirt everywhere. Thanks!
  12. Hey All, When I have the the waterproof case on, and it is in direct sunlight, it will fog up after 5 minutes. I am currently in Madagascar, and direct sun is pretty brutal here near the equator (Sun burns in 10 minutes...). It is also somewhat humid (but not horrible). Could it just be how harsh the sun is here? Am I not acclimating the case and camera properly? Or do you think the case is damaged? Just trying to get this unit to work for me - going to bestbuy or ordering a gopro off amazon is really not possible where I am at Thanks,
  13. Hey All, I am currently serving in Madagascar with an organization. I am assessing some of their technical needs - one is a better internet service and networking within their budget. One option, because fiber and adsl is not available at their location, is using a 4G provider. Both providers in the area supply a Cellular Modem/Router - but both have a "limit" of 10 devices. However, each device has an ethernet port. Has anyone used one of these devices before, and have you connected another router to the ethernet port on the modem/router, essentially using the cellular modem/router as only a modem to bypass the 10 device limit?
  14. Overall exposure is okay, but I'm confused by the picture. I can tell you are experimenting with leading lines, possibly rule of thirds. If the mustang was the object, keep it in one of the thirds, and remove the railings from the composure here, which are distracting in this case. D750 + 50 1.8
  15. With MODERN manual glass you generally have two options - cheap stuff like Rokinon, or super expensive stuff. Depending on what you need manual glass for - may be better off looking at the used market for normal autofocus lenses, and just turning off autofocus. Probably can get better glass for cheaper that way.
  16. Hey All, Looking for a good download manager that has a Web UI. I need to install the manager on my home server, that is currently across the globe from me. Downloading files directly from a site is often throttled by the internet cafes where I am in Madagascar, but google drive downloads super fast with no throttling. So, I need a way to remotely tell my server at home to download a file from XYZ link, so it will be ready for me to download from google drive when I am able. I would prefer a webUI to ease the overall process and not need to do RDP. Any recommendations?
  17. You could get a Ring video doorbell. It starts recording and sends you a message with live video on your phone when it senses motion. You can find these for ~$100 used. There are other options like this too - "smart cameras" are what they are often called - zmodo has one for $30. Basically, you are looking for something that connects via wifi that has features like motion detection and ability to send alerts on your phone. The problem with the monitor and camera - is that in order to get the type of behavior you desire, you will need a dedicated computer or camera DVR to be able to send notifications/display something when motion is detected - not just a camera and a monitor.
  18. Nikon D750 + a Sony AS150 action cam. Don't really have a go-to lens, because I use different lenses for different needs. However, I do often have just a 50mm 1.8 on when around town. If I had one, I would say I would run around with a 35 1.4 as my run-around lens - I like a slight bit wider than 50 for street stuff.
  19. You can do it now, it will just be "slow". Now, this is subjective. If you are a professional culling and editing a 2k image shoot where every minute is worth money - it will be more of an issue. If you are just doing so for fun with a few dozen images - it will work just fine.
  20. 1. Have you tried all the different types of switches? Red switches with stoppers are very quiet and smooth. I'm sure others would work as well. The "blue" switches are the loud clicky kind - there are a good dozen types, all with different loudness and feel. http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/ 2. I love MacBook Keyboards - But would never choose a mac keyboard for a desktop if I had the choice.
  21. I did so inadvertently awhile back when I unplugged my ethernet and forgot to plug it back in so it was using wireless, but it was not that great of an experience. Any benefits of wireless versus wired were nullified by the purely poor experience. I would definitely recommend hardwired if you can - and as a side note, would recommend backing up that external if you don't already - problem just waiting to happen!
  22. I'm currently living in Madagascar - getting notifications for videos during lunchtime is very weird.... Also - I like the video (so far).
  23. It's sad - but their target market for this phone are folks who usually don't know/care about 5Ghz. So they can get away with taking away features so they can make more money. At first I assumed it was because it was a super cheap phone - but its actually not, and cheaper phones have 5GHz.
  24. If its 2.4 GHz, you could use a Ubiquity Nanostation Loco M2, or Loco M5 if its 5GHz. These are directional units that can behave as access points or clients. When in client/station mode - it connects wirelessly and bridges that to the ethernet connection which you can then plug directly into your computer - or - into another router's WAN port. I am doing that right now with decent success, when without it I do not even see the network I'm connecting to:
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