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Judd

Member
  • Content Count

    506
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About Judd

  • Title
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    JudtheBud
  • Origin
    JudtheBud

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Electronics, Planes, any Engineering
  • Occupation
    Student

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 3 1300X @ 4Ghz
  • Motherboard
    MSI B350 Gaming Plus
  • RAM
    G.Skill 1x8gb @ 2933Mhz
  • GPU
    1050ti
  • Case
    Fractal Design Focus G
  • Storage
    1tb Seagate Barrucuda 64mb cache
  • PSU
    750W Gold PC Power and Cooling
  • Cooling
    Stock
  • Operating System
    Linux, Windows, Lakka, Freenas
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

745 profile views
  1. Sorry, I was being an idiot when I typed that. The wire is actually a grounding wire and it is 1/2 inches in diameter, or roughly 1.25cm. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the added clarification, that is making more sense now. Unfortunately, I have been told that I can actually make no contact whatsoever with the wire, that it can only be measured using an open loop clamp sensor. I apologize for the waste of time, but I did learn a lot, Thanks.
  2. Does this diagram look lie what you were describing? If it does, then is the following math correct? I = V / R I = 0.00025V / 0.00422Ohms I = 0.0592Amps So there is 60mA going through the secondary wire, but what about the current going through the main wire?
  3. Thanks, I will look into it. Like you mentioned, this device cannot be clamped over the wire. However, I will see if I can make it work with it being a closed loop instead of open loop, sorry I should have mentioned that. Are you saying that all I would need is to take a wire and solder the two ends to the main wire a few centimeters apart, then measure the voltage drop across it? Is this what you are saying? Or am I missing the point entirely? I'm not experienced with opamp amplifiers but I am willing to try. Unfortunately cutting the wire is not possible. Also, one thing that you made me think of was using a wire similar to what you mentioned, soldering a smaller wire to the main wire. Could I use a normal current sensor such as the INA219, and by using a formula I could calculate the current flow through both? I would think that this would be possible as long as I know the resistance and the voltage going through the wire. Any ideas?
  4. I forgot to mention that the current is DC, not AC. This has also been a problem I have found.
  5. I am trying to build a sensor that will interface with an Arduino that can measure the current going through a 1 inch wire non-intrusively. However, the real probelm is that the range that it needs to measure is between 1mA and 500mA, with an accuracy of about 1mA. I have done a little research on Hall Effect Sensors and measuring the magnetic field running through the wire, however it seems that the magnetic field is so weak, <0.0001 Tesla or < 0.005 Gauss, that it would be next to impossible. However, I have seen meters such as these, that can do what I need, but they are a little expensive and they cannot connect to an Arduino. I can not directly make contact with the wire, so it has to be non-intrusive. Does anyone have any ideas? I am willing to test multiple ideas if they have a chance of working. Thanks.
  6. I am currently 3d printing a few parts and I have been running into an issue. The objects usueally print correctly, but on some occasions it turns out like the first picture. My printer is the Creality Ender 3 with a heated build plate. I am printing Sunlu PLA+ at 235c with the build plate at 60c. One thing to note is that the whole printer and filament spool is enclosed in a cardboard box for noise isolation and to maintain heat. The box reaches about 40c in about 20 minutes. I don't think that that is the problem because the probelm occurs after a 2 hours of printing. Print Settings: Software: Cura 4.2 Resolution: 0.15mm Infill: 50% , Cubic Outer Wall Speed: 30mm/s Inner Wall Speed: 45mm/s Infill Speed: 45mm/s Fan Speed: 75% A couple of things to mention. The print looks like the infill is perfectly fine, just the outer and inner walls are non-existent. Second, the error gets worse as the printer head moves around the circle, picture 2. Does anybody have any ideas on how to prevent this? Like I said, I have printed multiple parts before and they printed fine, but some occasionally screw up. The only setting that I change is usually infill %. Thanks in advance.
  7. Another plus, for me at least, but the Galaxy Watch can store about 1.5gb of data on it, including music and photos, and you can listen to the music straight from the watch with no wifi or bluetooth connection. I know that my brother's gen 2 cannot do that, but the newest generation may be able to.
  8. Like distance tracking, heart rate tracking? When I ride my bike with a few of my friends I track it on my watch and my phone. After a couple of hours they are usually within a mile of each other, and that is after 25+ miles so really not bad. Heart rate tracking is always in line with me feeling the pulse in my neck, it may vary by 3-5 but it is good as long as it is firmly attached to your wrist. I have tried my brother's Apple Watch gen 2 I believe, so I cannot really compare to new models, but the Galaxy was faster and more consistent when waking it up by gesture, and it also had a good heart rate tracker, but I don't know about distance. The biggest thing imo is what phone you already have. I already had a Galaxy Note 9 and they pair perfectly with each other. If I had an iPhone I would may have leaned toward an Apple Watch, but it would have been a close call. If you can, I would suggest going somewhere like a Best Buy and trying them on, seeing how you like the square vs the circle, along with the weight and the thickness. I may be wrong, but I believe the Apple watch is a little slimmer, but I have never felt like the Galaxy Watch was too big. Btw I got the 42mm version rather than the 46mm.
  9. I have a Galaxy Watch and I love it. Couple of days of battery life, can connect to LTE if I want it to (you do have to open a separate line but LTE is optional), and the rotating bezel makes it super easy to use. It is water resistant, I have tested in a lake for about 30 minutes just swimming and it was fine. Pretty accurate heart rate monitor. It isn't a square, which can be a plus or minus depending on what you like.
  10. So, long story short, I am building an RC car using an Arduino and I have been using an L298N dual H-Bridge motor controller that can handle 2 amps per channel, and I have been using 2 of these motors. On Amazon, the motors say that they are up to 24v, and 0.6 amps each. This led me to believe that the L298N driver would be perfectly fine, but when I got the motors and realized how powerful they were, I figured I would need to make sure. I hooked it up to a 20v power supply and let them run. No load they draw 0.15 amps each. When I stall them however, they pull 2 amps each. Keep in mind this is only at 20v, so I did a little calculating and at 24v it would pull roughly 2.5 amps, above the controller limit. So, now I am looking for more powerful controllers. I have found a couple on Amazon, first, second, third, and fourth. I would like to stay on Amazon because I have always received everything to order and in a reasonable time, but I could go to a different site if I need to. The only requirements I have are: 3 amp per channel, up to 24v, and the ability to receive a pwm signal and control the motor accordingly (the L298N drivers use 1 pwm and 2 digital per motor, the digital control the direction). I am planning on putting these heatsinks on the drivers, along with these fans blowing across the whole board as the Arduino will be mounted right behind it and there will be 2 intake and 2 exhaust fans for the rectangular case I am 3d printing. And yes I know that brushless motors are what I should be using, along with an ESC, but I don't have the money for that yet and I already had 1 motor and the L298N drivers. But I do plan on using some brushless motors in the future. If somebody could help me determine the best controller, that would be greatly appreciated. At the moment, I am leaning toward the first one for the (what appears to be) bigger mosfets and pads which I think would help with high current application. Also, I am thinking about the consequences of the motor producing energy and it returning back to the controller, say when the car goes down a hill the motors are spinning and sending electricity back. Will this be a problem? If so, how could I prevent it? Maybe by using the digital signals on the controller I can tell it to put it in a state similar to nuetral in a car? Also, if anybody is interested, I would be happy to share the code and the 3d files to print so that you could make your own, but it isn't done yet. I still have to get the controller, make a gearbox to increase the rpm from 1000 to 9000rpm, design and 3d print wheels, and design and 3d print the enclosure. Other than that though I'm done lol. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
  11. Ok, sorry about this but it appears after some testing that my 5v power supply was outputting 10v instead of 5v. So, after getting a new power supply and testing it, it now works. Thank you for the help and sorry for wasting your time. Have a good day.
  12. When I connect the LCD to an external 3.3v power supply it appears dim, when connected to a 5v power supply all of the individual pixels are whited out. When connected to the Arduino and 3.3v it works perfectly fine. When connected to 5v it still appears whitewashed.
  13. I have connected an LCD to my Particle Photon, and the letters that the Photon sends appear to be very dim. When connected to my Arduino, they are fine. I think it has to do with the fact that the Photon is 3.3v, so I put a 3.3v to 5v logic level converter on all the digital outputs, but it still appears dim. Whenever the LCD freaks out and displays random letters and question marks, the text is bright and easily readable. I can send pictures if that would help better. Thanks, for any help.
  14. One final thing, I would wait until Zen 2 is announced from AMD. It supposedly will have about a 15% increase in IPC and 8% increase in core clocks, making it a valid option for gaming at the high refresh rate.
  15. You're right those are basically the same numbers. Due to the CPU % increase, I would leave the settings how they were originally. However, it might be worth it to play a game and test the ping in game. I can do that but will have to wait till tomorrow. Thanks for posting the results. I'll get back to you after I test it myself. Cheers.
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