Rexper

LoL! Find one that isn't bad. Just read a review. It's not their fault you can't read properly. Besides, if you wanted a good PSU that's suited to your needs you shouldnt be using the tier list. I agree. People shouldn't be using the list if they really cared. And OP made a whole thread for recommendations, so he atleast care. It's a bit hypocritical of you suggesting a psu purely off the tier list. No one else in this thread pointed to the tier list besides you.

They aren’t. In most power supplies it’s at 30%. Also doesn’t matter. The coolermaster calculator is crap. The outervision one is even better, see what number you get out of that. A good 550w is plenty. It hardly exists, since the loads in your computer change. Ignore it. But generally as PSU wattage increases, the low loads (60w) efficiency decreases. What stores are you purchasing from and what’s your budget? The Cybenetics ratings for Efficiency and Noise are much more reliable than the ancient 80+ ratings.

We use the D/M/Y format in Australia. America uses some M/D/Y BS. This wouldn't be much of a concern if there weren't websites or papers, or PSU reviews, that use a date without specifying the format.

You shouldn't trust the tier list. It is completely subjective and who knows what the OP was thinking when making it. Review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-tx750m-psu,5062.html I'm sorry for your unfortune. But, that is what warranty is for. Make sure you're using only the cables that come with the TXM

No. Opposite. The G3 is not sensitive to those, and they trigger rather late. But what makes you think that’s better than the G2?! The G2 doesn’t have OTP at all, and it’s OPP triggers at ~150%.

AXi is ETA-A+. Prime Gold is ETA-A. Reliable efficiency ratings from Cybenetics. Check out the report for specific info. AXi 1600 is Lambda-A. Prime Gold is Lambda-S++. The AXi is much quieter. Not sure what that is. Looking at Cybenetics, the AXi has much better ripple results on every rail compared to the Prime Gold. You're correct, the Prime's ripple is still pretty good which is why you shouldn't just look at ripple results. Look at voltage regulation, transient response, protection testing, timings. Not to mention the AXi's full controll and monitoring via software, including customisable 12V rails. It's a pointless comparison. There's reasons why the AX1600i cost $300 more than the Prime Gold 650. It's literally the best power supply on the market. So don't believe power supplies should be equally considered just because of a Tier someone made up. Read reviews.

Irrelevant, unreliable, subjective, doesn't answer OP's question. The list is made for people who don't give a damn about choosing a quality power supply. That's BS. They're completely different platform and for some users the AXi is a significant leap from the Prime. That's a different GPU. It also depends on the case, fan curves, environment, usage, etc. It's better just to opt for a quieter PSU at the same price. OP - There are in-depth reviews for all those PSUs... well, not so much the G1 since the reviews are so old. EVGA G1 750 review EVGA G2 550 review EVGA G3 650 review Your current PSU should be fine, but a bit innefficient, noisy, and maybe causing coil whine. EVGA BQ 850 review If you want to find information about noise or efficiency, check out Cybenetics

Sorry, that doesn't explain anything to OP, nor is it reliable. It was noted the Focus series had compatibility issues - black screens, reboots - with particular GPUs such as the Vega and GTX 970 Strix. If you aren't experiencing these problems, you're fine. If you do, contact support@seasonic.com and they would gladly help you out.

Marketing... Mostly. People, like you, see "100% Japanese Caps" and are more inclined to purchase.

Here's a Corsair TX550M for ~8900. A Seasonic Focus Plus would be even better, priced at ~10000. Or contact this guy and see you can afford a Bitfenix Formula, Corsair RMx, Seasonic Focus Plus, or EVGA G3. Honestly though, the TXM is already a great complement to the RX 580 computer.

Yeah, actually relieved that Stefan is involved in the upcoming tier list. Just the quality of the internals? So it's electrical performance, working protections, etc are irrelevant. I'm now very interested in the explanations of each tier. I already mentioned that wasn't my intention. Sorry if you mistook my comment into offence towards you. It's those people who have caught my attention. Those questioning the integrity of the tier list in the comments, to receive no answer. Those are the people who care about the PSU purchase. The people that go out of their way to start a thread, asking for PSU recommendations or querying a PSU's quality. Like OP. These are also people that care about the PSU purchase. Yet some are trying to pull them back to the tier list. We both agree that's not the purpose of the list. These are great options: https://www.olx.ba/artikal/32823391/corsair-650w-cx-650w-atx-135mm-80-plus-bronze/ and https://www.olx.ba/artikal/26545336/sama-armor-750w-80-plusgold-full-modular-novo/ Alternatives may include the EVGA B3, and Chieftec BDF S series.

I prefer not having a list at all. Rather a guide. I'll try work on one. People understand what makes a GPU good. FPS, frame time, power consumption, noise, size, price. People understand what to look for in a CPU; socket, single core performance, multi-core performance, amount of cores, SMT, power consumption, price. People don't understand how what to look for in a power supply. Tier lists don't help that, because nothing it explained. For me anyways, I tend to trust claims/ratings/reviews on the internet if it's backup with a sensible explanation. The tier lists have no reasoning. Everyone looks for different things in the PSU aswell. eg some require silence. The tier lists doesn't describe this. It's just based on one person's subjectivity.

No offence, the PSU tier lists are made by people with little knowledge on power supplies, for people with little knowledge. People who understand how a PSU works knows cramming them into tiers doesn’t do much and is completely subjective. It’s like have tier lists for cars. I can’t blame anyone though. There aren’t any simple, and useful power supply guides that explain what to look for in reviews, what a good PSU means for your system, etc. Here’s an in-depth review of the PSU: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Silverstone/ST60F-ESB/ It’s a cheap design. You can get better for the price. IIRC in your area you can find a CoolerMaster MWE 650 for ~140KM.

The graph literally shows about peak efficiency at 30 to 40%. And it’s useless talking about peak efficiency. Because loads in a computer change. At idle, your system may be consuming 60w. Running a program might be 150w. Heavy gaming could be 300w. And generally the higher the PSU wattage, the lower the efficiency at idle loads. Not to mention the initial price difference between the wattages. When you factor all this in, the impact of wattage on your bill is negligible, and won’t pay back. Adding some overhead is fine. OP’s System would consume <300w while gaming. Add 200w, you end with a 500w psu, which is already more than enough.

Woops, that review was of a power supply with 1 letter difference. Not the same one. In fact, your PSU uses a completely different design. There is no info on it, besides what's provided here. What we know: it uses DC-DC. Evident by 100% of power on 12V rail somewhat recent design as it "complies with ATX12V 2.4". Also the TUV cert was issued mid 2018. loud Full set of protections, and rated to 50C. 80+ bronze and APFC, as-well as many safety certs. Uses a 5Vsb micro USB connector for the wireless charger. non-modular So IDK about it's quality. Any other PSUs with 5Vsb coming through a micro-USB connector? I don't understand why the cover isn't compatible with a different, non-modular, similarly sized power supply.

Thats 10A of your grid's (AC) voltage - Probable 120V or 240V. So the power it can provide is roughly 10A times 240 or 120V. So 2400W or 1200W Your power supply is most certainly not pulling 10A from the wall. It isn't constant. It uses a "pull" design meaning it adjusts its power delivery based on what your computer components need. The more stress your computer is under, the more power it consumes. You'll likely be pulling 100 to 350w from the wall. Thats 1.5A from the 24V it's power supply delivers. That's .075A or 0.15A from the wall. A fan was probably hitting a wire or something, causing the clicking noise.

Every device in the USA uses the same power connection? And all come with a cord that can operate at extreme conditions? And all are interchangeable?! I learn new things every day.

Not missing. Purposely not in place. Because it's a single-12V rail power supply. You've also implied the RMx is single rail. I don't see your point.

Thank god for this guy. I probably sifted through a hundred photos to find some details on the PSU. Here's a review from 8 years ago: https://www.hardwareinsights.com/in-win-power-man-ip-p600cq3-2-600w-review/3/#A-look-inside Double forward + DC-DC converters. Decent protection IC. Performance is rather sluggish but still alot better than older group regulated units. I would see this comparable to budget PSUs such as the be Quiet System Power 9. It could probably run your system. Not that I'd be particularly comfortable, especially with the coil whine and fan noise. @jonnyGURU knows more about the Vega power spikes.

I highly recommend a "DC-DC" power supply for your system. Power supplies using DC-DC converters provide much cleaner voltages in modern computers such as yours. The cheapest PSU that I recommend is the Cooler Master MWE 650 for ~140. Yes, those are good examples of low quality power supplies from reputable brands.

Huh. Seems like the Outervision got a nice upgrade. No more 30w drive and peripheral BS. The GPU measurements are rather accurate (didn’t check overclocking). The 113w MOBO consumption is still bugging me though. Back in the day, it was god awful. Your 450 to 500w from the wall was really 360w to 400w of actual consumption. The rest is wasted as heat in the PSU. Worst case scenario a 650w PSU. The efficiency “sweet spot” is negligible. Loads change. You end up wasting money trying to compare wattage and efficiency.

What exactly do you mean by "softer" and "harder" switching? Is there a difference between double forward and ACRF, or half bridge and full bridge in terms of switching 'hardness'?

The Cooler Master PSU calculator is just a relabelled OuterVision calculator. It's pretty inaccurate. Overestimates the load wattage, then overestimates the recommended wattage, then recommends a PSU with even higher wattage. It turns into a mess. But you can get a somewhat relevant reading from the OuterVision calculator. Input your parts as usual, but the only output you need is the 12V rating. This is usually a balanced PSU wattage. For example, plugging your build into the OuterVision calculator without overclocks, I suggest a high quality 340w PSU, as that's the estimated 12V load. High quality is important. There are so many more beneficial factors in a power supply than wattage - Electrical performance, input filter, build quality, protections, noise, efficiency, size and aesthetics, cables, and price.

Compare it with some reviews. Corsair RM650X review @ TomsHardware Bitfenix Whisper review @ Tomshardware Also, you’re fine with the 550 versions.