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For Science!

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Everything posted by For Science!

  1. Just to illustrate my point further, here is my system where I had left most things plugged in while flicking thing on and off during filling. The PSU is RM750x a fairly good quality PSU. The LED strip on the monoblock completely died. The LED in the SLI bridge was not capable of showing red (assuming the red LEDs burnt) and so was stuck on green and blue. The blue LEDs of the left strip on the bottom ones were also dead and so were stuck on yellow. Its a situation where "you might get away with it" but to say it always is fine and is unneccesary would be poor advise. It's somewhat like saying "I've never been run over crossing a red light, there is no need to wait at a crossing". Maybe true if you are particularly vigilent, but it still wouldn't be good advise.
  2. Also to mention that it is an overclock with no real guarantee to work, have you checked your motherboard QVL list to see if the ram kit is validated to run at any frequency about stock?
  3. I like Asetek more (no objective reason, just my opinion) the ML fans are actually decent too So the non XT would be my vote.
  4. I've burnt out LEDs because things were plugged in. Would definitely recommend unplugging everything.
  5. Bykski/Barrow would be "as cheap as I would personally be comfortable recommending"
  6. Are you interested in replacing the fans? which then makes the question which is the better pump/control software. Or are you going to stick to the stock fans of the AIO
  7. Yeah, I think it could be better, but its not so bad. I had this rattle when mounting the backplate and the standoffs onto the motherboard and was quite worried about it initially, so I used to put washers between the motherboard and backplate. However I did realise that it actually didn't make a difference and the cooler still mounts completely rigidly even with the loose backplate. I know the H100iv2 comes with finger screws, but I would recommend using a screwdriver and going decently strong on the mounting if you aren't already. For reference, my dismounted cpu looked like this/
  8. Also, pictures of how the thermal paste had spread on the CPU and cold plate when you remove the block will also let us see if there is adequate mounting pressure.
  9. I would also say it is a high overclock limited by TIM. Lower voltages should help with thermals. If you run RealBench instead of P95 I can give you should numbers for a 4.8 GHz overclock with my H100i v2.
  10. I would have said more like starting from $500 unless you are going the barrow/bykski route and probably more since you want to incoorporate the gpu too. Of course the ali express/ebay route can be even cheaper but i wouldnt recommend that.
  11. Im so sorry that this is so hard for you. This is what plugs into the controller marked number 8. Alternatively the prongs can be pulled out so it becomes a female plug, but im thinking that that might be too challenging for you.
  12. Thats a dRGB header (probably 5V, can't see) should go into the motherboard or a seperate controller
  13. Try your local pc store. To my knowledge no remote services of this kind exists within the budget.
  14. So you didnt plug the usb cable of the h100i v2? It would be useful to get some rpm readings. My gut feeling is that the temp reading is correct though. Do you have adequate contact between the coldplate and cpu? Some pictures of thermal paste spread on both surfaces might be useful
  15. Well, in this photo you posted it is in a front exhaust configuration, so as a minimum you need to flip the fans.
  16. The EVGA CLC is an Asetek design which allows fan control based on fluid temperature whereas the CM is just controlled by the motherboard header and so the EVGA is superior in this regard. 280 mm in area is actually not so far behind 360mm so between the two I would choose the EVGA CLC for being an Asetek AIO.
  17. I mean, if you need a functioning pc i guess you have little choice, but generally speaking downgrading from the 9900K or going for X299 wasnt the brightest idea in my opinion.
  18. The H100i v2 is powered by a fan header, and the two fans are plugged into the pump block that are also powered by the aforementioned header. So the two fans on the cooler would have not been spinning at all for 8 months, is this correct? If the pump block area was heated by a 7700K without active flow for 8 months, that would have been plenty heat and time for the pump to be damaged. Normally these pump should be operated with a fluid temp of below 60 degrees, so without flow for 8 months, perhaps the pump could have been damaged, or the local coolant clogged to hell. I would personally benefit from a screenshot of HWinfo 64 as well as iCue (or corsairlink, whatever you use) just to see what's going on.
  19. Products to avoid at all cost: Thermaltake Radiators (most of them are aluminium), Mayhems Aurora (degrades over time), Primochill Vue (degrades over time), All Thermaltake coolants. CPU blocks ($60-75 ish): performance between blocks are fairly comparable, my recommendation is HeatKiller IV Pro Nickel, I think it looks gorgeous. Other options: EK-Velocity, EK-Supremacy, Corsair XC7, etc etc Radiators: Personal recommendation, HWlabs GTX or GTR. EKWB XE series are also pretty good. I would recommend you go for the thickest and biggest radiator you can fit, this will lower noise, temperatures, and generally make the build look better. I think the P3 can fit a fairly beefy radiator, so the 54-60 mm thickness should be fine, I think. Pump/res combo: D5 pump variant. Many brands have their respective pump res combo, choose based on looks. DDC is also an option, but I think the noise is not worth the savings made. Personal favorite looker is watercool heatkiller, but EKWB looks good too. Fittings and tubing: anything from a reputable brand is good, I use EKWB (both old HTC and new Torque) both are fine. Some people swear by Bitspower fittings, they are proabbyl better quality but a lot more expensive. Budget people go for brands like barrow or bykski, I would not go any cheaper than these though. Tubing should be bought from the same company as the fitting to maximize compatibility Coolant: I don't like opaque fluids, but among them, I believe anecdotally Mayhems Pastel is the one I would recommend.
  20. Anyway, this is a list that you will need as a recommended minimum: D5 pump/res combo 420 mm radiator, probably 40-60 mm thick (since you might as well prepare for when you incoorporate the GPU) 6 hardline fittings tubing appropriate for above fittings tubing cutter and silicon insert heat gun optional but HEAVILY recommended: 2x male-to-male fitting T- or four way splitter 2-pin temperature probe ball valve stop plug 1 soft tube fitting soft tubing even more optional but also recommended: 90 or 2x45 degree fittings
  21. Do you have a preferred online retailer? I could have a look directly there. Also do you know what tube thickness you want, it doesn't affect performance, just looks.
  22. This is just for the CPU right? AS for fluid, if you must use opaque, then I think Mayhems series (anything but Aurora) is the one to go. Corsair Opaque is supposedly by Mayhems too so it might be okay.
  23. If you must do opaque fluid, I would definitely recommend buying a premix (or at a minimum, concentrate). This would also rule out any aluminium components/kits, since they are not compatible with opaque fluids.
  24. the contact between the silicon and copper (mediated by the LM) will degrade over time, as you say, due to the amalgamation of the LM with naked copper. After significant staining, the performance is about the same as good paste, so in the long run to go with a good paste from the start is more hassle free with very comparable if not better performance in the long run
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