Arttu89

You definitely killed something, but I doubt it's the PSU. Any reasonably modern PSU should shut itself down long before getting permanently damaged when pushed hard for power. It's more likely that something went wrong with the other components. Why would you even stress test a CPU and a GPU at the same time? That's like asking for problems.

I just checked that board, let's just say SATA 2 isn't the only old interface on it. PCIe 2.0 ftw! I never had the pleasure of benchmarking a 550Ti against a 2200g, but just looking around online it does seem like the integrated graphics on that Ryzen chip do pull a little ahead of that card, so it would give him a bit of a boost. Aside of that, what you did already + CPU,MB, RAM would indeed be pretty sweet compared to what he's been running. Here's an idea, if the cooler on that 550Ti looks somewhat presentable, maybe you could make a sentimental piece out of it and just mount it somewhere in the case, obviously without plugging it in, just for show, as a little reminder of the old system that served him for such a long time. Unless he's not one to appreciate mementos like that.

What are your temperatures like under normal use? Check that you got good thermal paste coverage on the CPU, the die/dies on the 3000 chips are offset to the side, so if your thermal paste didn't spread well, or there's some issue with mounting pressure it could cause some weird temperature spikes. Now to your AIO question. First of, water evaporates at any temperature, it boils at 100°C. Your AIO won't explode. The fact that the CPU spikes to 100°C doesn't mean the liquid in the loop is at that temperature or anywhere near it, as long as the pump and fans are working and the loop didn't somehow get clogged up internally, it would actually be quite a challenge to get an AIO to "explode". Even if one of the working elements failed and the liquid inside got hot enough to increase the pressure in the loop in any significant way, the "best" you could get would be a "pop" of a disconnected tubing and a lot of spilled liquid. Also, the liquids used in AIOs are not pure water, they're usually a mix of water, propylene glycol and other additives, mainly to prevent corrosion and bacterial growth, but that also increases the boiling point of the liquid in the loop quite significantly over the 100°C, so yea, you're pretty safe.

Double check that you wired your front panel connectors correctly, it's on of the easiest things to mess up and easiest to correct.

As far as I get the "base components are good enough" approach, that MB and CPU are so old at this point, that they most likely stopped at SATA 1 or 2, so whatever SSD you put in there won't even be able to run at it's full speed, because it gets hamstrung by the older version of the interface. If he really doesn't use the PC for any gaming and just does the most basic stuff on it, he'd benefit a lot more from putting money into updating the base platform rather than replacing the graphic card with a 1050Ti. If I were you I'd get him a basic Ryzen system (maybe stretch a bit on the MB for a decent B450 model, if you want to leave him a better CPU upgrade path), a basic 8GB 3200MHz kit of memory to go with it (since you said he's ok right now with just 8GB for what he does then he'll be fine with it after an upgrade aswell), clean and repaste that 750Ti and put it in a basic decent case, something like a Fractal Focus G or similar. That'll at least give him a reasonably modern platform to upgrade on in the future if he ever wants/needs, rather than keeping him on that old mobo with a Xeon that he can't really upgrade to anything later.

I had a similar issue after buying my current laptop and it turned out to be NVIDIA drivers crapping out when I had a second screen connected to the laptop, just because the built-in laptop screen runs 144Hz and my secondary display is a 60Hz, I don't know if this would be the case for you, but installing non-beta drivers might help.

Have you tried other browsers just to cross check if it's not a firefox related issue?

Did you reinstall your system or did you just move your drive over to the new motherboard with the existing installation of the system? If you just moved the drive with the old installation of Windows your best start point would be downloading DDU, wiping the graphic driver and resintalling it, but if you still have problems I'd reinstall the whole system. Windows doesn't always manage with being moved over to a completely new platform. If you did install Windows from scratch, then again I'd start with DDU and reinstalling the graphic drivers, those artifacts look like GPU related issues, if drivers don't help, double check the GPU is seated properly in the motherboard, check the contacts on the GPU PCIe connector are clean etc.

What was it that you actually upgraded in your PC?

You most definetly mis-wired something, if you're pressing the power button and the system doesn't come on, the front IO power LED shouldn't be on either.

It could be something as simple as a bad connection for the cards fans. I had a problem on my Asus 980Ti where one of the fans randomly started spinning up for no reason, taking the shroud of to get to the fan connectors and replugging them seemed to have fixed it for me.

If you're set on that case and that CPU you'll probably have to be a little unconventional with an air cooler, beacuase of the clearance. You could try getting something like a be quiet! Shadow Rock LP, mount it without the fan and flip the power supply so it pulls air from inside the case and exhausts it out back, it would do double duty as your CPU cooler fan at the same time, unfortunetly it's hard to say how well would that work in a setup like that without giving it a try. Obviously you'd have to turn off any silent running options on the PSU if it had any features like that and maybe get a PSU a step or two over the power requirements of your system so it doesn't mind the extra heat going through it.

The PC and NAS would normally just report the speed to the nearest network device they're connected, that would be the switches, which leaves the connection between the switches and the router. I'd start with plugging the laptop with the cable that goes to the PC you're having problems on and then try to go towards the NAS, to see where the speed picks up.

So how many devices (switches/routers etc.) does the connection go through when you're not on the same switch? Sounds like it could be a bad connection ie. a badly terminated cable or keystone connector on one of the ethernet sockets in your house.

It sounds like something aimed more at the ultralight notebooks, I can see how it could be used as some auxilary heat dissipation system in gaming laptops, but given the description of how it's meant to work, it wouldn't be able to replace a standard active system, since gaming laptop components produce too much heat to be dissipated just through a sheet of graphite on the back of a monitor.

Technically it means that's where the MB failed to initialise within the boot process, but doesn't necessarily mean it's the RAM sticks, might be a MB issue as well as a memory controller issue on the CPU. I've had a look through the manual for that board there are other fault codes that have a digit first and a letter second, it's possible that 4d is a code that Gigabyte uses for some QC within the factory, but they don't expect it to come up once the customer gets the board, you could try writing to Gigabyte support describing your issue, they might be able to tell you something we can't. It could be either of the three or a combination of those, without having extra hardware to cross check it's difficult to tell. BIOS initialises before the system, so even if the system installation was corrupted somehow it would boot up to system initialisation, but not restrict you from getting into the BIOS. If I understood your explanation correctly you tried booting the PC without any drives connected and you still weren't able to get into BIOS setup. It's definitely an option, although I'd try writing to Gigabyte support first. There's an instruction on how to use Q-Flash Plus in the manual for your MB. You only have to remove the CPU, but it also works if everything is removed from the MB. Given the amount of issues you were getting, if you get to doing that, I would probably do it without anything attached to the mobo. My gut feeling would be that something happened on the mobo after the reset, you'd have to be very unlucky for all three components to fail. The couple things I would do (not necessarily in this order): 1) Take it apart and then: - put just the CPU and RAM in - ensure both the 24-pin and 8-pin power connectors are properly connected to the mobo (for sake of mind plug both 8-pins in) - turn it on without a GPU and see how far you get on the LEDs and error codes alone If the errors on the mobo don't appear at that point, start adding things one by one and turning everything on after each component you attach ie add 2nd RAM stick and check to what point it boots, then add the GPU and connect a monitor and see if it boots to the BIOS, if it fails after connecting the GPU try moving the GPU to a diffrent PCI slot and retry. Occasionally a bad PCIe slot can cause odd boot behavior aswell. 2) If at all possible try cross checking the components with known working parts, maybe any of your friends has a similar enough system and they'd be willing to borrow you at least their RAM or maybe you could take your system to their place and check your parts in their computer. 3) Make sure all the slots and sockets are clean and no dust accidently got anywhere 4) Write to Gigabyte tech support with an explanation of your issue, see if they can give you any advice on how to procede. 5) If after the above points you still can't find the issue then return/RMA the parts that you think are most likely to be causing the problems you have.

It's difficult to tell why and what is sparking without opening the PSU, but I would say it is a little worrying. Does that sparking happen only when you turn it on with the switch on the PSU? What PSU is it and how old is it?

1000 and 2000 series Ryzen CPUs don't work well with RAM over 3200MHz, those Trident Z Neo kits with 3600MHz are meant more for 3000 series chips. You could try setting up the memory speed and timings manually for 3200MHz, but it's unlikely you'll ever get it to work properly at that kits XMP settings with a 2700X.

Yea, already noticed and edited my post.

The 16 cores on AM4 is pretty official, unless you're reffering to AM4 and Ryzen 4000. Nevermind I understood you wrong.

There's a couple of ways to achieve what you're after, but I doubt you''ll be able to get that exact set of characters without using some extra software and doing some setup. LTT has 2 videos on how Taran made his macro/shortcut setup for editing I think it might help you.

If all the system repair options fail then your best bet would probably be setting it all up from scratch, as in reinstalling the OS and setting up all the drivers for the CT scanner, that's optimistically assuming that none of the hardware actually died. I've had the luck of not having to work with any older digital medical equipment, but I know it can be a pain to get it back up and running on any kind of modern day PC, depending on what old standards it relied on to interface with the computer correctly.

You don't have to connect to all 4 contacts, it's likely that those are just SPST switches but they have doubled up contacts to provide more contact points for surface mounting on the board (even if the switch on the board is a DPST then given what those switches are doing on that speaker it's just going to be wired as if it was an SPST with doubled up contacts). It's best if you use a multimeter in continuity check mode with the speaker turned off to check between which two sides the switch closes the circuit when you press it. Once you know that, you'll know where to solder your 2 wires and you can leave the other 2 contacts alone. For what you're trying to do you can use pretty much any type of momentary switch you find as long as you wire it correctly, since it only needs to be able to close a single circuit. I know nothing about Arduino or RaspberryPi's, so I can't help you there. With regards to ideas for media controllers for training your dog, I think you pretty much nailed it. A bluetooth speaker won't just give you the media control, but it'll also give you immediate feedback on whether it worked as intended. I mean sure, maybe you could make it fancier and with more bells and whistles on an Arduino or something alike, but the bluetooth speaker is probably less messing around for getting started quicker and if you ever want to expand it, I'm pretty sure you'll be able to desolder the wires and repurpose the keyboard you're making now with a more complex system, when you get around to it.

It's quite unlikely it would give you that much more battery life. Ram takes very little power overall. Not necessarily, it depends on what kind of chips are on the current ram sticks you got and what kind of chips would be on the new ones, but even if you have half the number of modules on a stick, that's not going to give you 20 extra minutes of battery life, it's more likely to be like a minute or two, if not less.

No, you can't connect them like that.