meenmeen1103

It does have a combo jack and includes a Y adapter for separate mic and audio lines, but yea they're not the cheapest option

The Beyerdynamic Custom Game cans are great, but they're closed back although with adjustable bass response with a physical slider. IDK what pricing would be in your area, they cost me $150USD. The cable is detachable from the headset, but the microphone is built into it and they're not USB. Easy solution to use them without mic is by using a standard 1/8" to 1/8" cable.

I would only ever use current dramless ssd's for media storage, not for constant access. While often times even dramless are better than HDD's, at the current prices it just doesn't make much sense to not get a cached drive. For m.2, while I personally use samsung nvme, have built pc's for friends using crucial p1 (1tb at $113USD) and wd black (1tb at $150USD), I'll have to echo the actual recommendation of the intel 665p.

So I've done my fair bit of googling for this, but all the results I find deal with things that aren't my issue. I know the bandwidth limitations of the motherboard m.2 socket and not looking specifically for drive recommendations, (drives or pcie-m.2 add in card) which were things the results mainly dealt with. My issue: I have this motherboard already, and 2 different m.2 drives. A sata based drive, and a 950 pro samsung nvme, and neither one is detected in the motherboard BIOS nor under disk management in a fresh windows install if I boot from a 2.5" sata ssd (installed using this mobo with only the 2.5" plugged in, powered off, installed either m.2 drive, then booted into 2.5". Motherboard has the newest non-beta driver available from Asus website (v. 3201) at default settings. So I don't know if either the socket is dead (no visual signs on board, very clean throughout and the 950 pro especially does get warm to the touch when board is powered on, indicating it is receiving power at least) or if im just missing a step somewhere. Would ideally like to boot off of the 950 pro if i can get it to detect, but even being able to use the drive/socket at all and booting from a 2.5" would be progress. I guess I'm looking for advice from someone that has used this model motherboard with either a sata or nvme based m.2 drive. EDIT: forgot to mention, both m.2 drives are known working, were pulled from other systems I had in use.

So, I have a motherboard that has an active Windows 10 Pro digital license for sale. A potential buyer is wanting to replace their dead board on their system with mine (of same model), and keep their installation because of added programs. I've gathered from the buyer that they have a Windows 10 Home installation that is linked to their Microsoft account. I am aware that normal behavior is that on first boot up after the board swap, they will be prompted by windows to enter their microsoft account info to 'fix' their activation. My question: would the fact that the replacement board has an existing license for a different version of windows affect this process at all (my guess is: very unlikely to affect)? On another note, could I potentially link my own microsoft account to this license for re-use on another machine later on? (the option to "add an account" is present on this board, and I would obviously disclose this to the buyer beforehand).

There's no 'perfectly balanced' gaming PC for every game. Too many variables, no combination of hardware will run at 100% for 100% of games. If your 1070ti is giving you the framerate you want at the resolution you game at, with the games you play, no need to upgrade. I've used a phenom ii x4 with a gtx 970 and it still ran the GPU at 100% with certain games at 1080p 60hz

I've built several impractical speed run cars. Things like 1/10 touring and 1/16 micro on 4s lipo, and a slash 4x4 on 6s. First I'll agree that the theory of cap packs has been explained in the thread already: stores excess power when system is not under load, and can more quickly release stored power than the batteries in said system. However, the scope to which this is actually helpful hasn't been explained or argued much. The battery temps increase when under load specifically because of their internal resistance, which IS used to determine C rating but: C ratings are about as accurate as CPU TDP ratings when you consider them as a whole in the industry (not taking shots at specific brands) . They shouldn't be used as an exact basis. Now, practicality: they don't store anywhere near enough power for long term. A capacitance of 1 Farad (1 million uF's) can hold 1 amp for 1 second. In systems rated over 100 amps, cap packs, which are definitely not anywhere near 1 Farad, can only ever help on startup power i.e. take-off burst power, 'burst' meaning microseconds. The reason cap packs from known brands even exist is because they are cheap af to manufacture, and marked up substantially to a market that looks for any and every possible advantage for their setups, this also ignores the marketing behind them. Oh, and laziness. I would say some people just can't solder for various reasons and these products being pre-built helps but soldering caps of this size to a board is no more difficult than soldering the leads, which you will definitely have to do anyway. This is absolutely no solution to helping batteries run cooler, but it's a passion driven hobby so if you want to give them a try, just pick low ESR (again, internal resistance is the biggest factor) and try to ignore any placebo for a validated answer yourself!

That 212 RGB is the exact one my friend bought for his. With a case with good airflow, the CPU cooler fan doesn't even ramp up audibly at all when under load and also has PBO enabled.

Adapters melt due to poor contact from the metal pins being an electrical resistance that creates heat the more current is pulled through them, the PSU doesn't detect that as a short; unless a ground pin bridges a live pin due to the melting. Generally, I like minimizing unnecessary connection points though they don't often fail.

it's possible that's the reason XMP wasn't enabling, worth a shot since moving one stick of ram over is pretty easy and gets dual channel working correctly

http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/B450 Pro4.pdf it's here, def gotta have the two sticks spaced out. looking down at the board, should be second and fourth slots

it also seems to be a 3200 kit running at 3000 speed. i'd suggest enabling xmp/docp since if it isn't running rated speeds, it's probably also running default timings. that kit is pretty standard so should be in the mobo QVL, though i haven't looked.

For gaming, #2 is the best CPU and is paired with a still decent GPU (the 970), though unsure about the PSU and not having an SSD is a real bummer

Gears 5 at 4k is an immensely more GPU demanding game, as most AAA titles. Not sure exactly what the frame limit would be for the 2600 on this game, but a quick look here (keep in mind it may not be exactly representative) shows the game pretty much doesn't scale over 4 cores, which i'd guess the 2600 would be good for 70-100 avg fps, but even a 2080ti struggles to reach 60fps. These kinds of games benefit much more from a GPU upgrade for your scenario.

For just gaming a 3600 makes more sense than a 3700x, and a b450 pro carbon or tomahawk/max board is fine, as any more expensive x570 board if you want any extra features. Realistically though, if you plan on keeping the 4k TV, it might make for sense to upgrade GPU for some AAA games to run at 4k 60fps. A CPU upgrade would do great with a high refresh rate monitor, 1440p 144hz with a 3600 and 1080 combo will run lesser demanding games like FPS shooters (overwatch, csgo, pubg) perfectly.