Agent Crimson

I have a weird setup for my home network. I have a super crappy ISP provided modem, router, wifi combo and also have 32 cameras and over 25 devices running at a time so I put a ERX in front of the modem and also made VLans in the ERX to separate the Cam network from my main home network. Now what I am unable to do is I want to configure the ERX such that the Cam VLan cannot access my Home VLan but can access the internet and I want my House VLan to access everything. The config I tried right now does not do this and allows we to access both the networks. Also the ISP provided modem router is also doing its routing so the ISP one is on 192.168.2.1 and the ERX is on 192.168.2.2 and the internal VLans are 192.169.0.0 and 0.1. I want to know if there is a way to disable routing completely from the ISP box and do everything on the ERX. I would have probably left it as is but I was trying to open ports for my CSGO sever and I was not able to because I wasn't able to figure out how to do it when 2 devices are routing. Please help me fix this rats nest of routing. Any help is greatly appreciated

Update: So I checked out Donut's suggestions and he was correct the routers do mention 10/100 on the lan and wan ports so I am out of luck with those. Now I don't want to spend 500$+ on access points like in my office so any suggestions for good Wifi Routers for around 100$.

Using speed test as well as the status leds on the modem lets me know if the connected device is using 10/100 or 10/100/1000

I am using a weirdo Accesspoint, Router, Modem combo from the ISP I needed to extend my wifi through out the house so I bought a few TP-Link 5Ghz Wifi Routers to do that I made one of the Routers as my main router and used rest of them as access points. Now my modem does not negotiate a full gigabit throughput to the main router hence capping my whole network to 100Mbps but connecting to the modem directly gets me the full 1000 Mbps how can I fix this? Also I haven't turned the internal DHCP server of the ISP provided combo should I turn it off and use it solely as a modem or I should use the modem as a modem and router and all the TP-Link ones as access points.

Alex should do thermal upgrade for the DJI Digital Fpv system. The main problem with the system is that the main unit gets too hot so they can first try to upgrade the stock thermal goop with a premium interface then upgrade it with liquid metal and at last try to make a custom heatsink for it and even try to water cool it.

I was wondering how NFC on new phones allow you to show a tag and let you turn on and off your flash, let you open camera etc. Is it possible to send that same string of code via WiFi?

Is there anyway to check if it is the Mobo?

My pc turns on by itself even when like I physically removed the button to eliminate the faulty button. And after it turns on it turns off. It also turns off when I myself start it up it just boots into windows and then shuts off. I am running my computer on a UPS and the earth is also present. I have had a similar issue before with cooler master psu but it was just turning off which later on fried 2 CPUs and 1 mobo. What should I do I haven't been using it to save my other gear. The psu I am using rn is a rma unit from cooler master 650w unit mwe.... 80+ gold rated fully modular

Its the TR2 S series of PSUs. The model number is TRS-0500P-2

I have a pretty respectable backup PC but recently its 650W 80+ gold unit went bad. Now due to the on going pandemic I don't know how long it would take to get a new unit. I had a 500W Thermaltake PSU and was wondering if that would suffice my setup. My Setup is: i7 8700K 16Gb Ripjaws 5 MSI GTX 1080 500GB SSD 1TB WD Blue AIO Liquid Cooler I have RGB fans which came with the case and the liquid cooler and no external RGB strips or controllers.

In today's vod linus refers to Alex's office in the Hacksmith Industries, has Alex left LTT for Hacksmith industries or that Alex is different?

I gave my LTT name and folding name on the Google forms page but I still haven't received the key yet. It's been about 5 days now.

Doesn't say although after this accident with my psi I switched from Cooler Master to Seasonic and never been happier....

I really don't know what to say right now but I can just warn you to maybe try using the system on a different psu to diagnose the issue. In my case at first my pc powering on then instantly powering off and then repowering on... were rare but as time progressed they became more common. So this is the only thing that comes to my mind. I was lucky and all py stuff was in warranty so got everything replaced for free.

It took about 6 months and it fried it part by part first was just the Mobo then when I installed a new mobo it turned out cpu was dead too then waited for a new one to arrive then the second time all three things got fried. My psu was not a bad one too it was from cooler master.

Mine did too it was just at startup. Which led to such major damage

It is a PSU issue and this might not show up as easily in diagnostics but it can cause many other problems down the line. I fried 2Mobos 2 CPUs and a set of ram after which the psu finally gave up.

Similar issue occurred to me. It was a long chain of events which fried 2 motherboards 2 CPUs, 1 set of Ram. It was later discovered that the whole problem was caused due to a faulty power supply. The issue was at first one restart every 7-9 power ups. Later it escalated to every 2 power ups at the end it stopped to power up. On diagnosis it turned out the cpu was gone. Got the cpu RMAed. Powered the PC everything worked fine for like a week. Then same problem occurred this time everything fried. After replacing everything and waiting for about 2 months for everything to be RMAed. It worked fine for 2 months without any issue but the same problem occurred finally, the psu gave up. Since then it has been 1.5 years without any issues. So my recommendation would be to use a different psu to diagnose and stress test restart a few dozen times. If the problem still occurs then it maybe some other part although highly unlikely.

What is this ssd lmg guys are using. I remember this from their sponsor spots but can't find it anymore. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

My main motive is to get a low profile switch keyboard. If it's wireless it's just an advantage. I am not buying it for the purpose of it being wireless

I have been using a custom cherry red wired keyboard for about 4 and a half years now... But I am still not that used to the high profile keys I have tried a thinner body wrist rest everything but it just isn't my fancy. So I thought of getting a low profile wired and wireless keyboard with linear switches. I was hoping for some advice on a good one which is not too overly expensive 100-120$ max. I came across keychron K1 they seems nice what are your thoughts and any suggestions apart from keychron. Thanks in advance

If there isn't a rgb header return it. Because to control it there should be one. And even if it is like a self lit one like no user control etc then it should out right work if you connect it to molex. So your fan is busted

I would wait for a bit before selling because due to the medical conditions.... Prices might go up... In some parts of the world prices are already ramping up. So I would say wait till GDC maybe another 15 days more after that and then sell because resale value of card will be more due to price hikes.

Make sure all the thermal pads are properly placed and ensure that the screws are not over tightened, doing so will flex the board and make it so that the die doesn't make proper contact with the heat sink. Also see if you have connected all the fan cables properly

Doesn't Quinn from snazzy labs look like Doug Demouro and Luke(in his old vods)....