Daniel644

a 3 finger swipe up on the touchpad also triggers that screen

bought a 10 ft. 1 1/2" PVC pipe at Home Depot when I went to see my brother today, gonna cut it in half (or so) also got some 90's and elbows, plan is to run the conduit down so it enters the back of the shelf and the other end up through the wall into the "attic" that can be accessed from the drop ceiling in the other room, this will allow for any networking/internet related cabling to be fed in the future, I may also make one a run for speaker wire and prewire for a future surround sound should I ever do that.

that gave me some ideas of running some Conduit in the wall to allow future upgrades for some key points, like the coax cable coming to the modem will go into a conduit so that in the future when they finally get Fiber out this way I can run a new cable (if needed) by going up in the drop ceiling in the room on the otherside of that i'm leaving in place for any future MEP (Mechanical, Electrical, Plumbing) updates that may need to be done without effecting the drywall ceiling on this side of the load bearing wall.

Alright so I've got the rare opportunity (Since I'm mid remodel) to work out the ultimate cable management system (no stupid wire management channel wall covers). from the TV I have 3 In Wall Rated HDMI cables, these cables can be routed to any of the shelves pictured, while I'm here I can also add in another outlet into the line (confirmed by counting number of outlets on circuit and still meeting code), I'm thinking of mounting the outlets to the bottom of the main "desk" shelf the PC is sitting on and the other outlet on the bottom of the shelf all the gear will end up on (still debating between the shelf pictured and the top shelf). To give some background, these shelves are 2x4 frames that half 1/2" top boards and will get 1/8" boards on the bottom to finish them and will get a 1x6 faceplate finish nailed in place to completely hide the 2x4's. my current thought process is to mount the power strip to the bottom of the main shelf and another one on the bottom of the shelf where the other outlet will be positioned then cable manage by using cable passthroughs from the bottom to the top of the shelf tucking the extra wires into the hollow sections of the shelf, this would be perfectly fine for the desk shelf as it's low enough you won't ever see the power strip on the bottom of it but the upper shelves outlet and power strip would be visible. I'm also thinking about routing a 4th HDMI cable so I have it for other items (like say the One S that currently has nowhere to go). The device shelf needs to house the Wifi Router, the Cable Modem, the Roku, the Apple TV and the Shield TV (I like to try new streaming services and they often don't launch with support for multiple platforms so I have to maintain access to the different platforms, I also BETA test for some and so I need to maintain all these devices access for that). the question is do we shove all of them up to the top shelf and try to hide the outlet down low, do we bring that outlet up through the shelf so it's not visible in the wall but is right there to allow a slim power strip to take all the plugs. anyone ever gone crazy with cable management and tucked all the wires?

NOT weird, a power saving technique for laptops, they switch to the CPU's onboard video (my old ASUS laptop did this) you could ditch MSI Afterburner and use NvidiaInspector to do everything, but remember the lower you lower the voltage the crappier your OC is gonna be, you NEED a certain amount of power to come into the GPU for the GPU to work at the level you want it to.

EVGA does stuff like that all the time, they also aren't afraid to firesale old GPU's, they had 980ti's going for $200 at one point around about the time of the scrapyard wars before last scrapyard wars, these 20 series cards are nearly a year old, they are probably just trying to increase sales numbers since no one is buying them.

provided the motherboard has connections to connect to the hard drive yes. the only potential issue may be your WINDOWS INSTALL, if you have Windows Installed already you will likely lose activation of Windows, if you are on Windows 10 this is less of an issue. Another potential issue is if you are using Windows 10 Pro and have the Bitlocker Drive Encryption (or some other Drive Encryption program) enabled then moving the drive to a new machine may activate that and lock you out. best practice is to backup and important data before moving the drive, but in general (assuming your hardware isn't 15 years old or more) the ONLY things that can't be re-used when changing motherboards is potentially the CPU (if you are switching sockets) and Memory if you are upgrading from a system that had DDR2 or DDR3 the new mobo with DDR4 won't take the older memory. Now 15 years ago you had to worry whether your PSU was a 20 pin or 24 pin and whether your hard drive was SATA or IDE, but those aren't issues for any computer newer then that.

yeah but like I said you have to keep in mind what you are competing against in the new market which is why I brought up the Ryzen 5 1600 if a NEW part comes in cheaper and gives similar in game performance then is your used part really worth as much or more? This is why I say the system is worth less then the sum of the parts, because people are overpaying for what the CPU is worth right now on Ebay. You need to be able to incentivize the buyer to buy your stuff over the other parts out there, so it comes down to how far you are from the Detroit Area Microcenter and whether your buyers are willing to drive that far to get new over your used parts.

what those parts cost new is meaningless, in the 3ish years since that CPU came to market we have seen major advancements in CPU's with faster and higher core count parts coming out for cheaper. you can't price old hardware based on what it cost when new. @Sreno you'd probably make more parting it out, but it would take longer to sell that way i5-6600k (oc 4.6) sells for 100-150 USD used on Ebay Dark Rock Pro 3 sells for 40-50 USD used on Ebay Giagbyte Z170-XP-SLI mobo sells for 60-80 USD used on Ebay 16gb 2133mhz ram Not enough detail, say about $50 given recent price drops on RAM MSI Gaming X 1060 (6gb) sells for 140 USD used on Ebay Corsair 460x with 5 RGB fans sells for 85 USD used on Ebay Corsair 500w PSU Not enough detail, to much variation in PSU quality to give a value here 1 TB HDD $20-30 used tops 128 SSD (OS) $10-15 used tops Wifi USB $0 as part of the overall system being sold together $10-15 by itself if it's a really nice one based on the used market parts value i'd say in the 600-700 price range for the parts value, the problem is the market, I can go to Microcenter and get a Ryzen 5 1600 with 50% more cores and its also got SMT (hyperthreading on Intel) to the point i've got 3 times the number of total threads available for $80 and spend about the same on a MOBO and wouldn't need a cooler as the 1600 comes with one and BAM i'm already cheaper then your CPU/MOBO/Cooler is worth and i'm getting brand new parts, not used ones, so you gotta get even more aggressive with your pricing as a whole system (which is why parting it out on ebay makes you more, people overpay for these Intel CPU's compared to what you can buy today) as a whole system you gotta be at like $500 for me to even consider haggling with you.

first gen Ryzen 5 1600 for like $80 at Microcenter, 16GB of RAM, build PC around that then try for a Quadro if you can if not any decent high VRAM (8GB+) GPU (this is for the rotating around in 3D) will work well. butter smooth and way faster then any i7 laptop I've ever run it on.

it doesn't work that way and if your laptops graphics are better why not just hook it up to your monitor, keyboard and mouse?

your friend is a fool, if they ran hot then they would add heatsinks, to say they are to warm to need them shows he has ZERO clue what he is talking about. Can you add a heatsink, YES, IS it worth the cost is the question, most RAM will run perfectly fine without one, if you are the type to simply insert RAM into your PC and boot up and go you won't notice a difference by adding heatsinks, heatsinks only matter when you get into heavy RAM Overclocks where you are upping the voltage and need extra mass to soak away the heat from the memory modules. TL;DR unless you are trying to max your RAM OC (NOT your CPU OC) or just like the way they look heatsinks aren't required for RAM.

depends on the TV in question, my TV has absolutely ATROCIOUS Input Lag, like so bad I can't survive Word 1-1 in the original Super Mario Brothers moved over to my Monitor and BAM all the way to World 8 like always.

b250 with a 6700k, thats NOT right. anyway back to the problem at hand, I suggest DDUing the GPU drivers and redownload and reinstall the latest driver.

nah i'm getting ready for work (gotta be out the door if a few minutes), this is the part where you do your own research.

it depends, for GPU mining you need to research what coin is CURRENTLY (as in THIS WEEK, anything older then that isn't worth looking at) and then research what software is needed to mine that coin, find a pool to mine it on, setup the wallet for said coin, find an exchange that trades said coin, there is a decent amount of work, or you can take the easy way out and use Nicehash, but even then (and this applies to all methods) you need to figure out the optimal point to run your GPU at, you don't just run it balls to the wall with the power limit turned all the way up, in fact you do quite the opposite, you reduce your power limit to reduce your power draw and your heat output. you need to figure out the optimal performance settings for your hardware for the algorithm you are mining, some like faster memory, some prefer core overclocking and memory turned down. There is little that stays the same between every algorithm.

let me spell this out for you DO NOT BUY USB BITCOIN MINERS, YOU WILL NEVER MAKE YOUR MONEY BACK EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! those things are 5+ years out of date. To make ANY money at Bitcoin Mining you HAVE to get in on either the first or second batch of a new Bitcoin Miner that costs several THOUSAND DOLLARS, there is NO CHEAPING OUT on this, will just LOSE MONEY. forget about Bitcoin Mining, if you do any mining you use GPU's to mine altcoins but even then a card like a Titan Xp is making about 2 dollars a day before power costs come out. So just stop and think how your crappy cards compare about that GPU, your 2GB Vram cards can't even mine the algorithms that are making the most money, you don't want a GPU with less then 8GB of Vram. Limiting yourself to algorithms that 2GB Vram GPU could mine would reduce earnings by 25-40% from that 2 dollar mark on the Titan Xp, low VRAM GPU's are outdated worthless garbage

about 1,000+ times SLOWER then the one he linked the one you linked is in the 3-5 MH/s range the one he linked is in the 15 GH/s range thats 15,000 MH/s the current Antminer S17Pro is 53+ TH/s thats 53,000,000 MH/s

DON'T USE LOW END CARDS, NOTHING below a 470/570 is even worth looking at, Mining is a RACE to be the first one to find the answer, the weaker your hardware is the less likely it is to find the answer. Just don't waste your money, with the way you are trying to approach this you will lose all our money.

you will NEVER EVER make back your money on those USB stick miners. those things are so horribly WEAK it's blind luck to even find a share, thats like trying to race a Bugatti on foot.

it becoming illegal doesn't make it go away, it just gets traded under the table, yes collapsing is a possibility, but more countries are coming around to crypto then are outright banning it. last year (so you can be sure it's LESS now) a 710 brought in about 3 cents a day, and don't say power costs don't matter to you electricity isn't free, it costs your parents or your landlord money and WILL cost them more then you will ever make from it. and like I said PENNIES a day, say maybe 4 bucks a year if you are LUCKY. 200 watts is 4.8 Kw's a day or about 48 cents a day at 10 cents per KwH.

frack NO, a 710, you won't even cover power costs. you could sell that card and make more money then that thing will mine in 6 years (ignoring all the money you lose to power costs).

Several THOUSAND DOLLARS and in 6 months the hardware will be WORTHLESS. Bitcoin Mining is done with ASIC's that basically become scrap metal once the next generation of ASIC is released. it will take a very long time if ever you recoup your investment. your better options are to use your GPU in your computer to mine certain Alt coins then exchange said altcoin for Bitcoin to hold Bitcoin longterm. If you still want to spend money then buy more GPU's (this assumes you have very cheap, like sub 10 cents a KwH, Electricity) and earn more altcoins to exchange for Bitcoin, but even then you are looking at YEARS to earn your money back, better off just BUYING Bitcoin and holding it until the next peak in the bull market.

Autocad will run fine on damn near ANYTHING, we are using a FX6300 from 5+ years ago and previously used a Q6600 quad core (at work), the biggest things where a faster CPU will help is in Rendering and more VRAM helps in the smoothness of rotating around in 3D, generally they recommend Quadro cards for Autocad so if you can find a "workstation" laptop decent price thats good, but don't think you MUST get something super fancy, I also suggest a 17.3" screen, anything smaller and you WILL be doing far more scrolling in and out to zoom then you normally do, I used my old Asus Gaming Laptop (i7 4700HQ CPU and 860m GPU) for CAD for a while before it died, now I built a desktop and just remote into it when I need to do things away from the house, also DEFINITELY budget for a mouse, CAD on a trackpad is HORRIBLE. I would think an entry level gaming laptop around about a grand that has like a 1050ti or something like that would do a pretty decent job at Autocad and save you money over some Workstation laptop with the fancy Quadro cards. Unless you are running the latest generation of CAD (we stopped updating at 2010) you won't see any advances from the RTX cards, not even sure the rendering engine in Autocad today can use the RTX features but I haven't gotten deep into that as I don't want to pay a monthly subscription for CAD nor do I want to be forced to use the HORRIBLE RIBBON INTERFACE.

the powerline adapter wouldn't effect the speed of the wifi, now your use of internet while gaming may effect their speeds depending on what your speed provided by your ISP currently is (what speed plan do you have from the ISP currently?). I would look at faster internet before getting a second connection entirely.