DailyProcrastinator

Pull the trigger on something. This mindset will get you in the perpetual loop of never wanting to upgrade because something will always be better. Or one day the GPU will not be able to perform as well with new titles. This can be said about pretty well any piece of hardware... In a nutshell you are asking about future proofing, we do not know what will happen in the future and how the hardware will hold up. For NOW the RTX 3070 is a really solid option. But I agree with what @Mister Woof said.

Not entirely uncommon. You likely will need to manually OC. First run Memtest86, verify you do not have a mem issue, then you can move on. Go into Bios, disable DOCP/XMP, then go to adjust Memory frequency, I would first recommend 2800MHz, if stable you can increase. Next go to adjust DRAM voltage to 1.350V, and then SOC to 1.100V. If able to post you know the profile is stable, although stability issues could arise while under higher stress. You can now increase Mem frequency, and if you hit instability up your DRAM voltage by increments of 0.025V, to a max of 1.450V.

If looking at 30" + 3440x1440 ultrawide displays I recommend curved. It feels natural with the wider aspect ratio. As for recommendations. What are the system specs this will be used with and what is the budget for this monitor, also location?

GMMK Compact comes pre-built as well.

How quiet the board is comes more down to the type of switch. A solid case chassis helps a bit as well. But if you are looking for a quiet board look at linear switches specifically as they tend to be quiet with no tactility or audible clicky-ness to them. Something like the GMMK Compact is a great option, well priced, solid case construction, and has hot-swap sockets so you can choose the switch you want, and easily change them at any time. https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/the-glorious-gmmk-compact-pre-built A good switch option would be Gateron Blacks. They are a linear switch that is a bit heavier, which makes up for the lack of a tactile bump.

Yes, this will be fine but if you plan on a future GPU upgrade it could be worth the spend for something that is a bit better quality, and higher wattage. But for current specs this works just fine. But get the 550W or 650W variant. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/3G97YJ/seasonic-s12iii-550-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-ssr-550gb3 https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/Rxprxr/seasonic-s12iii-650-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-ssr-650gb3

4c is enough, but I would not go for less. For slightly more tasking software it will provide adequate headroom. SSD pricing is great, worth it IMO. An SSD will keep the system feeling fast and responsive for longer vs a HDD, something I highly recommend.

Quad core CPU with integrated graphics and 8GB of RAM (upgradeable if needed), plus an SSD is perfect, it will last them pretty well forever.

Welcome to the forum! Personally I would go for 2x 140mm fans, but 2x 120mm is fine, it would not make a much difference. For RGB looks but great performance and low noise levels I recommend the Corsair ML fans. The offer very good static pressure performance as well, helpful with a limited airflow case like the H510. They also come in static LED versions or in plain black. These or the Noctua NF Chromax are my favorite fans. That said the best bang-for-the-buck PWM fans I have used are the Arctic P12/F12 or P14/F14 fans. For around $10 per fan (depending on region and availability) they are great value. And for good cheap PWM RGB fans that can connect to your motherboards RRG header I can recommend the Deepcool RF120M fans they can be bought for about $10 per fan, but in a 3-pack or 5-pack.

Welcome to the forum! TLDR. But with an 'old' system a refresh on some drivers can help. Also a huge thing to look into is thermal performance. At 4+ years old I almost always recommend a GPU re-paste, as well as the CPU if that has not been done anytime recently as well. Use HWMonitor64 to monitor temps, you could have thermal throttle issues.

The Corsair TXM is a good option as well, but you would have to make sure you have enough connectors. If considering I would recommend the 850W.

These are two higher wattage alternatives I recommend, 650W likely will not cut it with that GPU: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6Y66Mp/corsair-rm-2019-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020195-na https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VgQG3C/corsair-rmx-2018-850w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020180-na

Thiccc

Set SOC to 1.100V, and you can safely push DRAM Voltage as high as 1.450V, beyond that is not recommended. I recommend trying increments of +0.250V for DRAM voltage.

Have your run MemTest86? When you manually clocked your memory what was your SOC and DRAM voltage set to? And even if the the PN is the same if bought separately it still could have issues.

If the board has a stable Beta Bios for Zen3 and good VRM performance it should be just fine. For AM4 motherboard VRM performance refer to this list: Something like an Asus B450 TUF Pro S (mATX) does very well, but an MSI B450 Tomahawk Max is a good option.

It depends, mileage can vary with a mem OC regardless of whether or not all 4 slots are filled and XMP/DOCP profiles are not always stable. When you go buy more RAM make sure the part number is identical to the stick you already have. It would be likely that you would have to manually clock your memory in order for it to run stable at 3200MHz+, luckily it is not that hard.

All depends on how well you did in the silicon lottery, if you want to OC I recommend a better air cooler (for similar $ or less than the M22), or a 240mm AIO. Where are you located and what case do you have?

No problem, hope you get something that will work out for you!

They are both solid Tier A PSUs. Refer to this list: Yeah the 700W+ SFX PSU's are in very high demand, and traditionally not manufactured in high quantities vs standard ATX PSU's. And now with supply constraints.... it could be a while. Hate to say this, but if it was me I would change to a case that allows for an ATX PSU, just because it could be a very long time before a good SFX option becomes available.

At 120mm you can get a better performing air cooler for less $. However, to answer your question, yes, a 120mm AIO can cool the 10600k, just not amazing performance for the price.

Welcome to the forum! The SF750 Platinum is the best choice but they are in limited/no supply everywhere. The only other alternatives worth considering for a system like this is the Silverstone SX-PT 750W, or Cooler Master V SFX Gold 850W. If you can even find them available. Unfortunately you may have to wait a while for an SFX PSU like this become available.

Personally I would recommend a 1000W PSU, 850W is enough for those components, but 1000W gives you enough overhead with an OC, and you won't ever hit power limits. Also PSU's run at their peak efficiency at around 50% load. I recommend a quality unit, refer to this list: For this build get a Tier A PSU.

Okay that should suffice then. A manual clock at 3066MHz is your max.

Well that's not a completed run and there is a cumulative error. Did you test individually?