Fiskelord

Kind of, just remember system doesnt mean no noise, it just means more consistent fan curves as the temperature inside the case is not changing as drastically as the CPU temperature is. Also, you need to setup the fan curves yourself and check temperatures. No noise is not good if your CPU overheats and goes into speed throttling. So the whole idea is: You want something easy? Put it on CPU and forget about it, your hardware will take care of fan speed. Downside is fan speed is subject to a lot of change in that mode. You want something consistent, but never silent? Setup a fan curve for you desired case temp and make sure the CPU is not overheating with the chosen fan speed. This option is what i use, although my setup is overgeared in regards to cooling, so its practically always silent.

Also, it depends on what you want in terms of noise. Some people dont mind the noise, as long as it is constant. Others prefer no noise in a no workload usecase, and controlled noise in big workload case

PWM is the best option imo, if your hardware supports it. What fans are we talking about? Chassis? CPU? Radiator?

Right, forgot about that.

As long as the bridge is the high bandwidth version, it doesnt matter which one it is, you just choose a HB bridge with the look you prefer

As long as the cooler can handle the thermal load from the chosen CPU, you just pick the one that you think looks best in your setup. Of course, if there is a cooling overhead, you will have less noise from the cooler, but that usually means they cost more, so it is really up to you how much you wanna spend on it. Thats just my opinion, anyways.

Have you remembered to install ALL necessary power connectors? Could sound like a component needs more power than it gets

The log entried you uploaded shows no signs of anything dangerous, the reason the log entry is there is because your router did its job and blocked the attack. Now, you could go all paranoid and ask "But what about the stuff it doesnt catch?", and i would answer "Dont sweat it.". If you go down that rabbit hole, you might as well DC yourself from the internet now Look, i get what you are saying, and if you want a new piece of equipment to play with, go for it! But it is in no way necessary for you to spend that money on your network equipment, you already have a firewall in your router AND on your computer, your router probably already supports a site-wide VPN and if it doesnt, you can just use one from your computer, no big deal. I am not sure about the speed, although i think what you are referring to are called deep packet inspection, and yes, that requires some powerful hardware to pull a 300mbps connection off. Maybe it says somewhere in a datasheet, im not sure, if in doubt, contact them!

If you want to stick with blue team, a gen 9 i5 would be a great CPU for you, no reason to go i7 if you only game. If you want a CPU from red team, i would pick a Ryzen 7, but maybe wait for the new Ryzen generation to launch before spending money there.

First of all, the speakers you mentioned are active speakers, meaning the amplification part is done by the speakers themselves, thus not putting any real stress on your computers soundcard. That being said, there is a reason people spend a bunch of money on DACs and the like, so yes, there is a difference in audio quality between different soundcards. Whether or not you can actually hear it is another story, personally i am having trouble hearing the difference, as long as it is somewhat recent hardware i am listening on, and your computer is in the category

Buying second hand is sometimes the sensible thing to do, but remember that with old hardware, you lose support for newer software standards, like DirectX. That, and the things you have already mentioned are the caveats, but sometimes you get more bang for your buck by getting used hardware, and chances are the used hardware got all the power you need anyways. Its all about what you want to spend your money on

First of all, close all unnecessary access to your network from the outside, and if you need access, setup OpenVPN or similar. Thats the best you can do for free to make your network as secure as you can right now without spending money. Second: I have had problems in that past with someone hi-jacking a device on my network and trying to hack some random server with my connection, which led to my ISP contacting me about it. Luckily, he was really chill about it and even offered some advice for me, which i will relay to you. 1. Dont look at the logs, you will only get sad Computers all over the world constantly pings random IP addresses for potential targets, but as long as you dont have ports open and run decent hardware (As you do), you dont have to worry a lot about it. 2. If you have a public IP and dont need it, get rid of it! That way, the bad guys have to go though your ISP's equipment, and that is way too much of a hassle for most attackers to do. If they can and does it, you have pissed off the wrong guy in Call of Duty 3. If you need a public IP, you need some kind of specialized hardware for the job to be relatively safe. Personally, i use UniFi by Ubiquity, but you could use a custom box with pfSense or something similar (Like this: https://store.netgate.com/pfSense/SG-1100.aspx), but there is a caveat: Even if you invest in some decent equipment, your ISP is still buying much more powerful and expensive equipment than you, and there is a reason for that. So dont think you can achieve total security (I love using those words, it means nothing lol) by buying equipment meant for a consumer who thinks it is fun to mess around with IT stuff

I need a bit more info What file system did you try, how old is the system, UEFI or bios etc.

Thanks! Arctic got the Accelero Xtreme IV, which i think is supported by a 1080ti FE (https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/ax4.html), but it doesnt seem to cool the mosfets or the inductors. Isnt that necessary?

I don't know your financial situation, but maybe wait a little longer till you can afford a ryzen 5 and a 1060, it will serve you better and that way you don't have to get rid of a component if/when you want to upgrade

I'm sure you can use Rufus, maybe the file system is wrong. What exactly happened? Did it just not boot, any errors?

Well, you wont get anymore performance out of the machine by downgrading a component, but what component(s) do you already have? I think your best bet is to buy a Ryzen 5 processor instead, if you dont already have the Ryzen 3, that will make the biggest difference. What resolution you play in have a lot to say as well, but looking at the components, im guessing 1080p@60?

I couldnt find anything about "dynamic overdrive", but i believe this post speaks about what you need:

As i wrote, i got a GTX 1080ti FE from ASUS But do you think it will make a difference? I suppose more airflow is a plus, not sure by how much though

No reason to be a dick about it. Worst part is nothing useful comes up from that search

Hello! I got a reference GTX 1080ti card from ASUS, and generally happy about it, but i have read that the stock cooler isnt really all that good, so i was wondering if anyone have tried to cool the card with an aftermarket cooler? I was thinking about slapping a big CPU cooler unto it, either air or water, and 3D printing the piece that holds it all together, but maybe there is a product somewhere that already does so, i didnt find anything relatively cheap while googling it though. But is it really necessary? I am not sure the power delivery will be able to boost the card all that much, even if the temps got under control, due to it being a reference card. Anyone got some experience to share?

I dont think it will, both components are relatively low powered

Yeah, full power, your system should be able to handle it, if nothing is wrong with the components or the cooling solution. The worst thing that can happen is a system crash, mind you, so the computer will just start up normally again after crashing

I am not clever enough to read system error messages, but reading your description of the problem, the first things that comes to my mind is thermal issues and power supply issues, as the fault only comes when gaming / putting the system under relatively heavy stress. Have you tried to run a burn test on it, including both CPU and GPU? You could try Intel Burn Test or AIDA64.

if you want to stream, i can only say Ryzen will be a good choice, both considering price and their included encoder engine, thus offloading some of the stress to the CPU instead of the GPU, and with a 1070 you wont experience any CPU bottleneck with a new Ryzaen CPU. I just want to mention that a new generation of Ryzen CPUs are about to hit the market, so maybe wait a few months before you buy anything, if you can. Just as a side note - i7 is an overkill paired with a 1070