Jaker788

The one I got was $50 plus shipping. There's an old AMD fabbed one I'm interested in as well, but unfortunately nothing really new like a Fiji GPU, too new I suppose or they don't give out leftovers anymore. Silicon wafer 6" - Rare Vintage MIPS FPU R3010

So I went and bought a vintage wafer off eBay for some wall art. Anybody ever work with this MIPS co processor closely or had a workstation with one? Does anybody have sightings on any fairly new hardware like a 290x or 7970 type wafers, or other old architecture wafers, dies, or packages? I'm looking to make a small collection of significant architectures old or new, or generally vintage stuff like this.

From what I've read, F@H doesn't use FP64 anymore, they ran a trial and found it's extra accuracy didn't add much and costs performance. That being the case, a used consumer card is probably the best option since pro features won't add anything. I'm thinking a used 1080, RX580, RX590. Anything more powerful than these cards and the GPU load will be below 100% due to the work units being too small and a waste of the extra power the GPU has. A 1080 will get you 700-900k points per day A RX 580 will get you about 350K points per day It's likely a used 1080 will be your best bet and bang for the buck. if you find some for a steal you could buy more than one and have them running separate work units. Just make sure you have a power supply with enough PCI-E connectors and wattage capability.

Honestly I don't put much faith in Prime95. Memtest64 is a great test for memory stability and error checking. Sounds like you're pretty much stable thought depending on what you're going to be doing

3600mhz is a lot for first gen Ryzen to handle. Even at 3200mhz i could only get 3.8ghz on a 1700x stable, i wouldn't be surprised if 3600mhz or even 3466 is just too much to handle. Ryzen 2 can handle these speeds better but still with drawbacks, I had to downclock to 2800mhz to reach 4.2ghz all core on a 2700x. You could try a higher SOC but hitting 1.2v you start to get in a fairly high risk area on Ryzen 1. Definitely keep the ram at the OC voltage. If you decide to downclock you can go through the timings and try to optimize the latency at the speed you choose, it does take some time though. I think anything between 2800mhz to 3200mhz would be a good spot depending on CPU quality, clock goal, and workload planned. If its gaming no big deal at 2800mhz, Ryzen does do better in gaming at higher memory frequency do to it also increasing InfinityFabric speed, though i think after a point it becomes diminishing returns for the CPU clock you sacrifice and stability. For stress testing IBT is okay, also try a round of OCCT large FFT or ASUS RealBench stress test and benchmark. They all have advantages, Realbench is more real world and you can have it load all your ram with 7zip to test parts of your IMC, OCCT is good all around for memory and core at large FFTs, any smaller is just extreme thermal testing.

The fact that it restarts if i move anything or tap the case too hard.. It's a first gen Ryzen build and case too, someday I'll take it apart and rebuild.

I have a friend that wants some help in finding a new laptop. His current one is about 6 years old and falling apart at this point. So, the requested features and specs are of the following: Touchscreen preferably Ability to play browser based games and app games from Windows store, no AAA games being played on it Budget of less than $1000 but I think a target of around $500 should get something good for the use case Needs Bluetooth Nice screen preferably 1080p and around 14-17inch if possible, preferably IPS for viewing angles and good color/contrast CPU and GPU speed only needs to be enough for small games and browsing, better is fine if the price is good SSD if possible for responsiveness and a secondary hard drive for storage HDMI output port is a must! Newest gen processor would be best AMD if Ryzen is mobile yet or Intel. Sipping power and staying Cool'n'Quiet tm is a nice thing to have. That should be it. He just needs a good laptop to replace the old one, and last for another 5 years hopefully while remaining snappy. Something that you can watch movies on and display to a TV, play browser and app games. i will do some reaserch of my own and post it below this. Maybe if anybody has some knowledge of the quality of my picks firsthand or by word of mouth could tell me if its worth it. Thank you! Things I've found that look good and have the needed features: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742H4TKY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744MPDDN?psc=1&smid=A16YSFOH31M2GC

Depends, is the game CPU heavy like GTA 5, Citys Skylines, or Anno 2070 or mostly GPU like Doom. The settings I mention next few paragraphs are in the output settings tab. Usually OBS can figure out the best bitrate to stream at during setup, based on your upload speed. But the max you can do is 6,000 kbps for Twitch and I think most people can do 4,500kbps unless your upload is like 5 mbps or less. For the most part your encoding preset speed, if we're doing software encoding, is going to be at veryfast to superfast since you only have 4 threads. The faster the setting the less CPU used, but at a sacrifice of encoding efficiency. Its going to be a lower quality for a given bitrate compared to medium like you could get with a Ryzen 7, diminishing returns though, and a boatload more CPU usage. The slowest you can go for a game without it killing your FPS, or the stream stuttering is the goal really. Its worth trying Hardware encoding through your GPU or iGPU Quicksync and compare the stream quality compared to software and choose what you think is worth it. You can choose through the Encoder dropdown menu in Output settings. If you're gaming at 1080p and streaming at 720p, you'll need to go to the video settings and scale it down to your target stream res. From what i've been told, Base(Canvas) is your native gaming res, and Output (Scaled) is what you want to stream at. Streaming at a higher res will take more power to compress, be it CPU for software encoding, or GPU for hardware. The downscale filter will use some CPU as well, Lanczos is the most intense one and I haven't noticed much of a difference between that and Bicubic unless it's a high bit rate stream. Then there's fps settings in the video tab. 60 will take more work to encode and you'll need more bit rate to maintain the same quality as 30fps, how much more depends on how fast paced the game is. Any other questions ask away, anything I got wrong, someone correct me please or add on. Edit: Encoding speed and a lot of this stuff you will have to restart the stream for it to take effect after applying.

Not crossfire at that, there have been dual GPU cards before. This will be seen as one big ass GPU as far as the software and games are concerned, no crossfire. Just the data connects between dies helping them all work as one. It's gonna be interesting to see how it all works for a GPU, we've seen how Ryzen and EPYC work, but the workload is way different than the parallel work a GPU does.

Same thing will happen with GPUs, both NVIDIA and AMD are working towards multi chip module cards.

Keep in mind these are quad core Excavator cores, not Ryzen. Same with the new Athlon procs, AMD has converted their older CPU\APUs for AM4 platform. The performance on the CPU front will be weak, not sure about the R7 graphics. For a $350 budget, and what he wants to do, it might be ok. Just trying to clarify that the new Ryzen APUs are not out yet.

These ones range from 40 to 50 dollars and 20,00Mah to 26,800Mah, plenty of capacity to play for over 12 additional hours or more. They all have a 2A, one of them 3A output which is enough to keep the switch going or even charge it while playing. Fast charging standards like qualcomm or anything else won't do anything for charge speed, you just want the highest amp output. Though when you actually use high amp output for a long period of time the battery bank will be less efficient and it's battery will get warm, less playtime, once the switch is at 100% it won't pull even 2A most the time so it's not so bad. You'll want to buy a USB C cable also to plug into the battery bank. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-Portable-Double-Speed-Recharging/dp/B01JIWQPMW/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1504118968&sr=1-1&keywords=anker+26000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012NIQG5E?psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/Anker-20000mAh-Portable-Charger-PowerCore/dp/B00X5RV14Y

Probably not a very cpu intensive game, you might be able to get away with slow or slower encoding speed. The slower it's set the better the compression is and you get better quality for the bitrate you have. You'll know when it's set too slow, the stream will be stuttering or OBS will say it's overloaded.

If the phone is old enough and the battery worn. It could be that the battery internal resistance is just really high under most loads, even the screen just being on. Do you know if the heat is from the battery area, or from the possessor area? Is the screen on a high brightness most of the time or medium to low setting? How is the battery life day to day compared to when new? Google might help you find out where the battery is, but its usually the lower 3/4 of the phone. Possessor being the upper part of the phone like near the rear and front camera.

Windows should be able to recognize it on a fresh install. Just make sure to not accidentally format one of the drives in the pool haha. I used to have a 4 drive dynamic disk and I've reinstalled windows a few times with it., you can scream at me if it doesn't work and ill help you recover data if it gets lost, which it shouldn't. Also, I don't think you can convert back to a basic disk without losing your data. You'd have to copy to another drive them move it back after converting to basic.