akio123008

I Ended up fixing this particular problem by getting a whole bunch of dead batteries and managing to find one that had a worling BMS board in it. I'm also still interested in finding out more on how exactly this communication works though, for future problems. I think it's insane you basically need to discard an entire battery with all cells in good condition because of a dead piece of shitty electronics. At this point I don't have any CAN bus reading device, but at some point I might get one and hook it up to the ebike bus. What I'm worried about though, is there may be encryption involved as well. The BMS could contain some kind of private key that it uses to sign the messages so the bike can verify it's "genuine bosch" crap. In that case, crafting a battery message with a DIY setup would be almost impossible, it would require breaking the encryption or obtaining the original private key.

Anyone?

I'm trying to repair a bosch ebike battery (specifically a "powerpack 400"). The battery cells are all in perfect condition, but the BMS board has died. so I need a new BMS. (pretty much every single component has been fried) Here's the problem: the Bosch BMS has an extra 3-pin connection that allows it to communicate with the ebike drive system, so using a normal "dumb" BMS board from Amazon or Aliexpress won't work, since of course the bike will only work if it can communicate with the battery. I don't think I need to mention that of course, this Bosch BMS cannot be obtained, even by a proper Bosch certified bike shop. I've been trying to hunt one down for weeks now, without success. Now because I don't want a perfectly good battery to go to waste and a new 500+ euro unit to be bought, I really want to fix this. What I need to do is somehow fake the communication from the BMS with some kind of microcontroller that I can put in the battery. I'm quite experienced with electronics and microcontrollers, but I have no clue what kind of communication protcol the bosch system uses. I've seen some comments online that the battery uses CAN bus, but even if that's true that's still too little information to spoof the BMS. Therefore I'm hoping someone here knows some more details about the communication protocol these battery packs use or where to find this info, so that I can try and rig something up to make the bike think there's a proper Bosch BMS in the battery. Thanks in advance!

An eskateboard could beat your walking pace but for 3-5 hours you'd need an impressive battery. I'd just get a bike because it's so much faster, more efficient and safer than any kind of escooter/skate-thing. You'd give up public transport compatibility but IMO that's not a problem because the bike is a worthy replacement for public transport. (especially if it's electric).

I've done exactly those things.

Hello everyone, I'm trying to install macOS in a virtual machine in Virtualbox. The installer works, but then I can't select a disk to install the OS onto, while I have created a virtual disk (VDI file) with a fixed size of 50GB which is attached to the VM. So then I went into the disk utility, and clicked "view all devices", which revealed that apparently it sees the virtual hard disk as a CDROM drive? I suppose disk1s1 is the drive I created, but when I click it in the installer all the options are greyed out and it says the disk has 32KB of capacity. The "mount" button is unresponsive and the "partition" button sends me right back to the main screen. Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong here?

Cool. Shame you're about to spend it on something as lame as PC hardware.

You appear to have no inverter to power the PC when the power is out. Solar inverters are grid-tied which means they don't work standalone when the power's out. You'd probably need a "regular" inverter (unless this is an unusual solar inverter that keeps going in an outage) Seems like you could use this inverter as a charge-controller for the battery though.

@Falcon1986update: Enabling RTS on the access point appears to have solved the problem. I've set the threshold to 1 to use on every packet and so far it's good.

Hmm but do you consider LTT content to be "computer science"?

Well neither am I. The only thing that points to it is the fact that it's the only thing that changed in the network.

Nothing notable. One DECT phone that's always been there. The site survey from the AP also reveals no significant sources of interference.

Literally every WiFi device I own (laptops, phones, printer, some microcontrollers) All works fine. Yes. Mine's the ";)" As you can see, signal strength or interference isn't my problem. This screenshot happens to be quite far away from the AP, otherwise the signal strength is even higher. (No, the wacky SSID isn't causing the problem, I've tried different ones)

Same sort of results. All my client devices support 13 just fine. The problem occurs regardless of the channel being used.

These are the settings I use, except: - 802.11 can only be set to b/g/n; b-support can't be disabled (but there are no b-clients anywhere to be found, so in theory it doesn't matter) - 40MHz channels won't let me connect a thing. Narrower than 20 won't work either, perhaps 10 or 8 MHz is a ubiquiti thing that isn't officially part of the wifi standard? Anyway, 20MHz it is. - WDS is enabled, with WDS disabled the coverage and performance was for some reason absolutely awful. Given my knowledge about what WDS is, I don't see why this is the case, but turning it on caused a huge improvement in performance, in both coverage and speed. Did that too, I couldn't get anything to connect with airMax on. Done that as well. Finally, here's the site survey: To me it seems like it should be either on a very low channel or a very high one. Currently it's on channel 13, I've tested it on a few others, including ones that don't make sense such as 7. It doesn't seem to affect the issue much if at all.

Omni antenna. Also, the signal never actually drops. The problem persists even when within 1 meter of the AP. I've checked that and it's on the least used channel. Good point, but the old AP was also WiFi 4 and didn't experience the issue. The amount of clients is low (4 or so) and the problem is still there when my phone is the only client. This could in theory be the case, but the router hasn't been swapped and is still the same one from before, with the same settings.

I have recently set up a new wireless access point to get better coverage (a Ubiquiti bullet M2 outdoor AP). The thing works pretty well for most things, and I get pretty decent speed and coverage where I need it, so in that sense I got what I was after. But then there's this issue it seems to have mainly when I use whatsapp (and possibly other services alike). In the middle of a conversation there are random moments where communication with the AP appears to stop for no reason and no messages can come in. Then after about 20-30 seconds or so the connection recovers and a few messages will come in, messing up the order of the thread because I sent something during that dead time. The weird thing is it does all this at maximum signal strength without ever disconnecting. Regardless of distance to the AP. I've checked pretty much every setting there is and nothing seems to affect the problem much. When it comes to networking aspects, the AP is set up to be as dumb as possible, no routing, no firewall no nothing, so in theory it should do nothing at all to the packets. It is also difficult to test, because it only occurs when chatting on Whatsapp. Web browsing goes without any issue and every speed test shows ping times well under 20ms. What I'd like to know is if any of you knows an obvious reason why this might be happening, or has had the same experience with this AP. (perhaps I should point out that I didn't have this problem on my old crappy AP.)

Why not just use this machine then nvm I see the problem that's a pain to keep carrying back and forth. Luckily there is. How about something like: "Hey, this machine is too slow and I need something better for the work I do. Please get me a new one"

severely underrated comment

Get some old laptop, plug an extra hard disk into it and you're done. It even has a built in UPS.

Well to be honest, if you live in the UK you have no reason to assume an outlet could be unearthed.

I don't think that's what's going on here. If a computer power supply is connected to an ungrounded power outlet the input filter applies some pretty significant voltage to the chassis. (which is due to the design of the filter that assumes the PSU chassis is connected to earth). That can cause some nasty shocks. So to the OP there's an easy fix: ground the chassis. (aka plug into a grounded outlet).

What can a bot not do? What it isn't designed for. Bots are all fairly specific at this point. There are lots of AI systems pretty damn impressive at a specific domain, but there isn't one that can do all the things like a human can.

It won't.

An AVR is a device that attempts to keep the mains voltage at a certain level, say 230 or 120V. A modern day power supply doesn't really have an AVR inside it, but it does accept a wide range of input voltages (100-250V). Active PFC isn't necessary for this, passive PFC power supplies (like a phone charger) can also handle 100-250V just fine. (as long as they're rated for it of course) Using an AVR is usually not necessary on a computer for this reason (the computer doesn't care if it gets 150 or 240V). Perhaps on a 120V system it makes more sense since the power supply may not handle say <90V, in which case an AVR could help stay above that. Regardless of all that, there's no reason you couldn't connect a computer to an AVR.