dafiltafish

I do not know what happened exactly, I came home after a road trip and the PC was on with no picture, turned it off with the reset button and now all I ever get, even with the GPU, drives, and ram removed, is black screen and a surging cpu fan, no post, no angry beeping about the RAM not being there. It's a gaming/school/content creation computer, the PSU is a Thermaltake unit from 2013, 550W, 80+ bronze I have yet to test the power supply for failure, should do that asap. I've had that go out on a system before too, that's why the athlon system exists in its current config.

So over the weekend it seems my trusty AsRock Z87e-ITX decided to kick the bucket, I'm still working out if it can be saved or not, but assuming the worst, I'm in the market for a new board. So that brings me to a bit of a conundrum: Z87 Haswell ITX boards with wifi are kinda pricey, there's a couple I've found that are in the $150 range that should work, but I'm wondering if that's the best course of action. Options: -Replace the motherboard with another ITX 1150 one: While still being pricey for an old motherboard at $150 to $300 for something that's full featured, assuming the CPU is okay everything should just plug back into it and I can move on pretty quickly. -Replace the motherboard, CPU, and RAM with newer ITX hardware: I have done limited research into this, but even if it is much more expensive than the previous option, haswell is 6 years old, so it might be worth it to switch to something like a Ryzen 3 or 5 and just leave the old i5 and ddr3 ram out of the equation. -Swap the drives and GPU into my "light duty" gaming PC I built 2 years ago: This thing has 12 GB of ram and an Athlon 880k, toss in the RX480 and it SHOULD act sorta like what I had, this would be free, but then I'd be down to one desktop that's way too big for my desk. -Replace the motherboard with the cheapest 1150 one I can find (that's from one of the big 4 Taiwanese manufacturers) and get a new case to accommodate it: This would be a lot like the option previously mentioned, but would keep the hardware configuration the most similar to what was already in place. The pro is that I get to keep that other PC where it is and I had been looking for a new case anyway. The con is that it would cost probably cost just under the price of a replacement ITX board and will take up more space than my current case. I'm not totally sure what to do, any input would be helpful at this point.

I work at a chain office supply store that fixes computers and I am struggling for answers with a customer's computer we are trying to get some data off of, so here it goes: The computer is a Gateway DX-series tower running an intel core i5-2320, has 8GB of ram, and as of very recently a new EVGA 500W PSU. Now before the new PSU was put in the computer, it would not turn on at all and the old lite-on power supply smelled of burning electronics, what is known to me about that is the computer was set to do updates shortly before the PSU failed, so naturally a replacement seemed fit. As soon as I installed the new power supply, the computer posted and everything seemed to be going well until it tried to start Windows (10 64-bit). It seems like it will try to load windows for maybe 10 seconds before the moniter looses connection, everything else seems to be working inside the machine. The motherboard speaker makes one short beep. The reason I need to get into windows as opposed to just taking the hard drive out is that this particular customer has been using outlook 2010 and when I slaved the hard drive to another computer to get the data off of it, it could only find the files from extremely recently (July 2017) and from mid-2012, nothing inbetween. So far I have tried getting data off via copy/paste with the drive slaved as mentioned, I have tried loading the system in safe mode which, when it does work, is extremely unstable (the problem here is that I can't open outlook because it cannot find its product key, I have tried a system restore (fails every time), and I have tried reseting the computer making sure to select "keep my files". That last one will get past the prep stage, but crashes the computer at 3 percent on the 'installing windows' part of the process. My question is simple: have I missed anything? I have tried pretty much everything I can think of, this forum is sorta my last resort.

On the front of that Porsche, and many MANY other cars.

What was the obsession with expansion joints in the 80's, they just look kinda weird.

BIMMERFORUM LIED TO ME!! Okay then, so the E85, what sort of craziness is up with its upkeep, same story or no (the 3.0L one if I am not mistaken)?

(long time no see, right?) Odd question, what do you think of the BMW E46 chassis? Is it reliable enough to daily drive without much headache or should one stick to VW for cost saving's sake?

Shop by the monitor, not by the port. They both work just fine for hi-def.

Depends on your interests and needs, but here are few guidelines: -make sure its cheap to insure, start the search at 20 years old and you will have quite a lot to choose from -do not spend more than $5000 (U.S.) and spend no less than $1000, this will get you into heavily used, yet highly reliable motoring -when it comes to engines, make sure the cars you are looking at were widely popular at some point OR share a ton of parts with a common car Beyond that, just make sure it isn't too rusty, the tires are good, and the trasmission actually shifts. As an example, my first car was a GM J-body I got for $1200, but any Honda with a D-series engine, any 4 banger Mazda, and any Ford with a modular V8 will be pretty good to you. ALSO: I would suggest buying a 4 or 5 speed stick-shift, they don't break down as often and it can tell you more about how the car is acting... plus they are a riot in lightweight cars.

In that case I will try my best to be a good representative of the RX-# communities.

Well, I'm new here and you guys are talking about rotary engines so now is as good a time as any Ladies and Gentlemen, let me present to you... *drumroll*... my Mazda! For less than $10 grand U.S. this car comes with the most modern iteration of the wankel 13b rotary which revs to about 9000 rpm and sounds like a weedwhacker on meth. I highly recomend it.