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Everything posted by PianoPlayer88Key

  1. Hi ... I'm wanting to get started live streaming soon, most likely on Twitch. (I may also consider Mixer, YouTube, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, etc.) Content for now would primarily be piano music, playing an acoustic 1956 Baldwin Hamilton upright piano (the kind has often been used in schools in the USA). I just need to get a few more parts to get up and running, but I don't know what specifically to get or where to get them. Posting this in general, cause I'm not sure where else to put it, and an earlier topic posted in Peripherals a couple weeks ago never got any replies. (I'm asking about several things - details are throughout the post, but I bolded some of the highlights / bullet points to make them stand out a bit more. Also I'd had another topic asking about getting a Cam Link 4K in Peripherals a couple weeks ago but no one ever replied to it.) (Also question for mods, for future reference ... is there a way to move topics from Test Posts to wherever they would get posted publicly, without having to copy & paste everything manually?) Wow, there's quite a lot here I just wanted to make sure I didn't leave out anything relevant. I still feel like I may have, though, but I'm gonna go ahead and hit submit topic anyway. I've been working on this topic for probably several days, but I wanted to put the same effort into it that I hope to get out of it. I wish I knew which topic it was posted in, but someone on here said something about advising people to put the same effort into a question that they expect from the answer. Now, I hope it doesn't take several days to start offering suggestions Even something asap would really help. (I'd like to order some parts by this weekend or so if at all possible, and be testing things / learning how to set it up by next Monday or Wednesday morning.) Also I just noticed my post count after I hit submit. I don't think my piano playing would be THAT "1337" but hopefully someone might enjoy it or be blessed by it, if I can get started with streams. For a TL;DR, I'll get out of the way right now, the list of the parts that I still need (or need to replace). Parts I don't have at all (or may have had but lost / broke): 1/4" mono female to 1/8" stereo male audio adapter -- to connect one of the microphones that use a 1/4" mono plug to a mic-in port on the laptop, or the mic in on the Zoom H2n (stereo jack) micro HDMI to HDMI cable -- to connect the Panasonic FZ-1000 to the Cam Link 4K (I made a topic a couple weeks ago asking if the Cam Link 4K was discontinued (was out of stock then) and should I get something else. No one ever replied, and I did end up getting one ordered from Corsair. There's a few more pics & info in that topic.) Small table-top tripod -- to put the camera on the bookcase. Thinking of something like one of the flexible Joby ones or similar. Parts i have, but are insufficient (cable not long enough, or about to break or HAS broken, need more units than I have, etc): USB A to Mini-B cable -- to connect the Zoom H2n to the laptop, if I connect it as a USB interface. (2x) USB 3 extension cable (if others aren't long enough) -- one to connect Cam Link 4K to laptop, other to connect Zoom H2n to laptop if the mini-B cable isn't long enough. 1/8" stereo male patch cable -- to go from Zoom H2n (if I connect it via audio cables) to laptop (either on piano or on bookcase) (2x?) 1/8" stereo extension cable -- one for extension from the Zoom H2n to the laptop if necessary, the other for plugging in my headphones to the laptop. I'm not sure where to get them though, or what brands, gauges, etc. specifically to get. Also some of the normal places I buy from (like Walmart, Amazon, etc) are delaying shipping "non-essential" things several weeks because of "human malware" (how much do I owe Stephen Burke in royalties? ), and my mom (living w/parents, can't afford anywhere else right now) doesn't want me buying anything from NY (like from B&H) cause she's afraid of "HM" and is at higher risk (mid 70s, diabetes, etc, also my dad uses a cpap at night). I would like to get high quality (durable) products from reputable retailers. (If I could have some of my parts last longer than my piano has so far, that might be nice. ) Longest cable run I'd probably have would be about 25 feet or so. (More on that a bit farther down.) One issue I always have with cables (audio, USB, etc) is they pretty much never last longer than a couple months or so before they break (usually the wires break internally, most often near the end of the cable.) I'd like to upgrade to better quality cables, so they can last years or decades. I would like to at least start testing things hopefully by this weekend or so or early next week, and would like to hopefully start actual streams on or before my birthday (which is near the end of this month). I made a picture showing basically where my stream setup would be, overlaid with pictures of the types of equipment I would be using. (It's nowhere near perfect - the Pixel 3a didn't do a perfect job stitching the photos together, the pictures I added of the equipment aren't to scale (some are generally pictured larger than they actually would be), and I drew the color coded indicator lines by hand with my mouse in GIMP.) A bit of explanation about the picture: Parts with a green-like background = ones that I have and am planning to use / could use without much if any trouble. Parts with a darker orange background = I have these, but they might be insufficient - cable might not be long enough, might be about to break, etc. Parts with a red background = I do NOT have these Blue drawn lines = shows what parts connect to what. Gray drawn lines = shows approximately where I might run some cables. (Dashed = behind something in the picture, relative to the POV of the camera. Also the picture above is cropped a little. Here, in the spoiler, is an uncropped picture without the annotations, showing just the picture straight from the Pixel 3a. I used a piece of twine to measure the cable run (they're shown with gray lines in the annotated picture) from the Zoom H2n to the camera location (which is where I'd have the laptop if I wasn't using the dedicated camera), running the cable out from the piano, back to the wall, up the wall, over the doorway, back along the other wall and around to the top of the bookcase where the camera is in the picture. (Can't run it along the floor across the doorway because of carpet, and it would be a trip hazard.) It was about 25 feet plus a few inches or so. Running from the H2n under the piano to the laptop on top of the piano would probably be considerably less, maybe 12-15 feet or so. From the laptop to the camera, I'm guessing about 20 feet or so. Also the picture shows a partial view of a desktop PC, with the monitor on the piano's music desk. I plan on primarily using the laptop for stream, although I might also press the desktop into service for some things, for example displaying sheet music if I use it, or whatever might come to mind. (I also want to be able to power it off and swap parts, like HDDs, etc in & out without the stream going down, hence why I'd use the laptop for the actual streams.) In the spoiler are a couple other pics showing how the H2n (the piano mike) is set up in the lower part of the piano. Note that earlier I mentioned two possible ways of connecting the H2n to the laptop - one using 3.5mm patch cables, the other using USB and connecting it as an audio interface. I would only be using one. Also an alternative talking mike connection would be plugging the mic into the input on the Zoom H2n, which would take over instead of the XY mikes. The Mid-Side mikes would still be used for the piano itself, HOWEVER, I can't use both MS and XY simultaneously when connecting via USB. Turns out there was a firmware update for the H2n that apparently enables 4-channel use via USB and a couple other things. I've applied the firmware update, but haven't tested it yet. It may still leave me with the issue of needing the 1/4" mono to 1/8" stereo adapter though. Also if I did plug the voice mic into the H2n, it would need to be amplified. I did a test where I set the recording level so that the piano was a couple dB from clipping on peaks, then spoke into the mike plugged into the Zoom, and the mike was probably about 30 dB down or so. (Also it was only in the left channel, cause all I had was a 1/4" mono jack to 1/8" mono plug adapter, and I was plugging it into a 1/8" stereo jack. If I plugged the mike into the laptop, I could probably use OBS to mix it down to mono (so I could use my existing adapter), and the laptop might have some amplification built in. I could maybe get another mike, but that would increase the cost more than I want to do right now, and I figure I could probably try to use what I already have. (Also the mike(s) I have now have a built-in on/off switch, so I can just switch it off that way when I"m not talking into it.) I could move a couple of the boxes on top of the bookcase (where the camera + tripod is pictured, and where the laptop would be if I was using its webcam instead) somewhere else to make room for the equipment I would have up there. There is an electrical outlet behind the piano (accessible from the right side by the doorway) which I can use for the laptop and the camera. Whatever is on the bookcase (camera or laptop) would need an extension cord, that would basically run along the gray line around the doorway. One possible issue with that outlet - while it is a 3-prong outlet, it has an open ground according to a tester my dad has. The nearest accessible properly-grounded outlet may be across that living room (it originally was a garage), or might be in another room in the house. While I would like to get ALL the outlets in the house properly grounded (and the two-prong outlets in my bedroom replaced), doing so right now would be impractical. I don't currently have an A/C adapter for the Zoom H2n, but my streams would be unlikely to exceed its ~14 to 18 or so hour battery life. (If I ever did a 24 hour stream, I could just change out the Eneloops on stream when needed.) Parts I already have and can use: Clevo P750DM-G Laptop Intel Core i7-6700K CPU 64GB (4x 16GB) DDR4-2133 G.Skill Ripjaws RAM 3.25 GB SSD Storage 250GB Crucial MX200 M.2-2260, 35GB free 1050GB Crucial MX300 2.5", 91GB free 1050GB Crucial MX300 2.5", 64GB free 1TB Samsung 970 Evo M.2-2280, 486GB free NVidia GTX 970M 6GB GPU Intel 7265 Wireless card 1080p 15.6" G-Sync 60Hz display built-in webcam Logitech K360 wireless keyboard Logitech G602 wireless mouse 2x Radio Shack / Optimus 33-3018 500Ω Dynamic Microphone (bought probably late 1990s) 2x Audio-Technica AT9100 600Ω Dynamic Microphone (probably 1990s at newest) btw I only need to use 1 of the microphones for this application - it would be for talking to stream between songs. Zoom H2n Audio Recorder / interface (has built-in X-Y and M-S microphones, I would be using the M-S to record the piano.) Elgato Cam Link 4K (got it in the last week or so) 1956 Baldwin Hamilton upright piano (no electronic parts, so microphones must be used) As for where to get the parts I still need .... I live with my parents and they really don't want me sourcing stuff from places that have a lot of Human Malware. So, for example, buying something from B&H (based in NYC, also is Adorama based there too? I forget) is out of the question, although they would have been one of my first choices for where to buy some of the components I need. A couple places I'm considering ordering from are Newegg and Guitar Center, maybe also Best Buy, Target, etc. I'm not considering Amazon right now (and not sure about WalMart) because I don't expect them to ship things like this quickly enough. (I'd like to get started actually streaming within the next week or so, and at least testing things in the next few days.) My internet upload speed tops out at 10 mbps on a good day, but is more likely to be around 7 or 8 or below. (One evening near the beginning of stay-at-home I ran a speed test, and it struggled - doing something like 0.02 mbps for several seconds, then hesitatingly jumping to around 0.9 to 1.1 mbps or so.) I could probably stream as high as 1080p 60fps if I only stream to one site, as long as it's still good quality. I'd rather lower the resolution and the fps for a given bitrate though, cause I want the video to still look good. (While I likely wouldn't be playing games, I've watched game streams where during fast action, the quality was absolute crap, like entities and environment blending together, solid walls (with heavy compression artifacts, etc) where there should have been texture, etc. I would like to avoid that. Basically how some photos I've posted look, is approximately what I'd like the stream to look like.) I'm considering most likely streaming at 1280x720 or 960x540, 30fps. If I stream to multiple sites and don't use a service to do it (looked at restream.io but don't think it'd be the right one for me), but instead send the stream myself to each platform, I might have to dial it back to like 640x480, 30fps, or maybe 480x360, 30fps or lower. I'd rather not drop it that low though if I don't have to. At minimum the viewers should be able to see my hands on the piano keyboard clearly enough to at least get some idea of what notes I'm playing, so if someone wanted to play it themselves the same way they'd have some idea of how I play the songs. I don't think I want to get XLR or rack-mount equipment, or other things like that until I buy my own house (not just rent an apartment, although I may do that for a while), and I don't yet know when that will be. I'm not interested in getting a digital piano right now. I do like the sound of some Rolands that I've played, but still there's just something about the sound of some acoustic pianos I've played and heard, especially from the mid 20th century and older, that is lacking in digitals, or something that digital pianos have that I don't like, that older acoustic pianos generally don't have. (I think a lot of newer pianos also have the type of piano sound I don't like as well or don't have the sound I do like, with a few exceptions.) I also have another piano (also a Hamilton upright, made in 1950), but where it is located in the house would be impractical for streaming, so I'd be using this one. I might start using that piano more when I get my own place ... although another option I'm also considering is swapping it for one from 1951 that's at my church - I like the sound of that one quite a bit better for some music, vs the one I have from 1950. The one I plan to use on stream for now is from 1956, and it too has a nice sound, just a different character of sound than the two older ones.) Speaking of piano sound ... I'll go ahead and link a few recordings I've made on the pianos, in a spoiler. (Hoping it's okay.) Hopefully they'd give you some basic idea of the sound, both of the pianos themselves, and the recording equipment used. That would hopefully give you some basic idea of what it might look and sound like, although some were recorded last year or before and may not have been set up exactly how I'd do it for a stream. Also some time I would like to set up a second camera angle from directly over the piano, so viewers can more easily see my hands on the keyboard and what notes I'm playing. I don't need to have it in the beginning, though, but hopefully I can get it set up a few months or so down the road. Here's a view of what that 2nd camera might see. The lid is open to see the hammers and dampers as well ... you wouldn't be able to see my foot on the damper pedal, but you would be able to see the dampers all lifting off the strings when I use the sustain pedal, and the hammers all move closer to the strings when I use the soft pedal. (Soft pedal in a grand piano works differently - shifts the keys & action slightly to the right to partly miss a string on each note / hit the strings with a different portion of the hammer. The piano also has a bass sustain pedal, but I think I may have it disconnected right now.) I would need a way to mount the second camera (likely my Pixel 3a, or I may use an LG G4 I have, hopefully I don't need to get another camera just for that) above the piano, and not have the mounting / supporting hardware visible in the main shot. (In the other topic I linked earlier, there's a couple pictures showing what the main camera might see from a couple angles, more about that in that topic.) And as for tips, etc ... What can I do to best protect myself from chargebacks, etc? I know Twitch has bits, but I'm not sure if I want to turn on / accept affiliate status when I achieve the qualifications for it. (I hear they don't like you to stream to multiple sites simultaneously, and want to wait a day before you upload your VOD somewhere else. I might want to simultaneously stream to Mixer (I hear they're a bit more lenient on multi-platform streaming) and YouTube as well as Twitch, maybe also Facebook, Instagram, Twittter, etc, and maybe upload stuff to YouTube (if I don't stream there) fairly quickly.) I'd prefer to use a provider / whatever that takes the least cut out of it if possible. Like if someone wants to give me $1, I don't want them to have to pay like $1.40 for the privilege, but something like $1.03 or maybe $1.10 might be palatable, with a smaller percentage being taken out with larger individual tips or with multiple tips strung together in a short time. Also I've been trying to work on a spreadsheet to try to keep track of songs I know, and ones I want to learn. (There's likely at least a thousand or more songs I know - probably more religious / gospel songs than everything else combined, but I want to branch out into other genres, learn more songs, etc.) When I originally made the above spreadsheet, I was on the YouTube history page scrolling back, adding songs to the list as I came across them. But, I think at the time I only went back a couple months at most, haven't checked it since last October, and I've been on YouTube since --- well it says January 2008 and happens to be the same date as my first upload, but I'm sure I've been on YT since before then. (I know I've done stuff on YT in like 2007 or 2006, also with a different account that I haven't used in like 10+ years, but if I could find & log into it just to see a few things, that'd be nice.) What might be a better way to keep track of a fairly sizeable library / repertoire of songs? Also is there a way to extract / search all the music videos I've ever watched from my entire YouTube history? (And filter out the other non-music videos.) I'd like to be able to import them into a spreadsheet or something with the title of the video, a small thumbnail, the channel name, date/time I last viewed it, things like that. I tried Google Takeout set to just YouTube history a few months ago, but it only pulled a little bit of it - basically a few months worth from a couple or so years ago, IIRC. (Demerit points forgiven for also being able to get basic info for videos I've seen in the past but are no longer available - like, when I watched it and the title, so I can search for that song somewhere else if I want. There's one channel in particular that had a lot of songs I watched, but the channel got copyright struck down and I'd like to find out what those songs were so I can search for other versions.) And what would be a good way to have people be able to suggest new songs for me to learn to play?
  2. Come on, WCCF!  If you're gonna post tasty rumors about Big Navi, DON'T DO IT ON APRIL 1 !!! :P



    1. TVwazhere


      WCCFTech articles are april fools jokes all year round.

  3. Looks like most of those configurations are geared toward 3D gaming / rendering. What about non-3D configs where you don't need much graphics power, but need other parts, like for workstation, office pc, backup server, conversion from older analog media, etc? For example... Example non-gamer onfig options: CPU: Intel: Core i3-6100 (i already have it), or up to 4x socket 604 / 771 / 1356 / 1366 / 1567 / 2011 Xeon AMD: Athlon 3000G, or TR 1900X, or Epyc <100W, or up to 4x Socket F/G34 Opteron RAM: 4x UDIMM DDR4, or ~8-16x or more ECC RDIMM/LRDIMM DDR3/DDR2 GPU: APU, or GT 710 or GT 1030, or on-server-board iGPU like ASpeed, Matrox(?), etc. (CPU, and GPU if used, would be undervolted / underclocked so it could run passive / 0dB silent, maybe even low enough so it wouldn't even need a heatsink if I end up not having the physical space for one.) Other parts: 9x 3.5" PATA HDD, but not for very long 18x 3.5" SATA HDD, likely more in future 4x 2.5" SATA HDD 4x 2.5" SATA SSD, likely more in future 2x M.2 SSD, possibly more in future (I have the above storage media) Something to convert from 5.25" floppies (we have some but no way to read them) or MFM HDDs various video / audio / photo / other-format capture devices, for converting from analog formats like 16mm film, VHS, Hi-8, audio cassette, reel-to-reel, 12" vinyl LP, printed photos, negatives, slides, older out-of-print magazines, books, some handwritten papers, etc. Total estimated wattage: ??? Recommended: ???
  4. So does anyone know the status of the Cam Link 4K, whether it's still in production, or whatever? Or could anyone suggest another capture device I could use to connect my FZ1000 to my laptop? Budget would be $129.99+tax if it supports 4K 30fps, or probably around $60-80 or so if it maxes out at 1080p 60fps. Also apparently I'll need to get a "high speed HDMI micro cable" (turns out I don't have one), and for the audio stuff I might need a few 3.5mm extension / patch cables (I may have a couple, but it's possible the wires got flexed inside & broke with use. Also if I hook up a mike I already have, for talking between songs, I'll need a 1/4" mono to 1/8" stereo adapter - I may have one somewhere but idk where it is. The extra cables, etc, would not be included in the budget for the capture device, but I don't want to overspend there either. Or should I just get started using the laptop's built-in webcam? (There's a comparison shot from the laptop vs the camera in one of the spoilers in the OP.)
  5. @TylerDurden! "Old timer" to me would be someone who built systems like Apple II, IBM PC 5150, TRS-80, Commodore 64, Xerox Parc/Alto, TI-99A, etc, and were already considered veterans in the industry when they were in development. I was born spring 1981, and while I used computers since about the late 1980s, my own first experience building a PC didn't come until February 2008. @atxcyclist what about cylinders, heads, sectors, landing zone, interleave, etc? (MFM hard drives) And what else had to be manually configured before auto-detection and auto-configuration existed? I'd like to see Linus and a few others do a video where they hands-off coach some youngsters on building & setting up a gaming system of that vintage. If it has 30-pin SIMMs, PATA HDDs, a 3.5" floppy drive, PCI slots, USB 1.0 ports, a 15-pin VGA / D-Sub port, ATX case/mobo/PSU, it's too new. And by the time those came out, the "old timers" I mentioned above would have retired, been drawing social security, etc. As for how young the kids building them should be ... I'd say as young as Linus's kids in the videos where he built computers with them, up to - the original iPhone was already discontinued, out of warranty, no longer getting OS and security updates, by the time they were born.
  6. Does anyone know if the Elgato Cam Link 4K is discontinued, or is it just out of stock? I'm thinking I might like to get one soon (like next few days or a week or 2 if possible), but I can't seem to find them in stock anywhere. (Not Micro Center, not Best Buy, not Amazon, not Corsair's site, not B&H, not anywhere else that I've looked. I don't want to get a used one, and I think $129.99 + tax is a reasonable price, considering what I'd be doing with it.) I've been thinking for a little while about starting streaming, probably on Twitch but I'd also consider Mixer, YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, maybe a couple other platforms. (Multiple simultaneously would be nice, although I looked up restream and it looks too restrictive for my taste.) My upload bandwidth might be 10 mbps on a good day, or less during congestion - one evening a few days ago it was struggling to hit 1 mbps upload. (It did, but after several seconds of about 0.03 to 0.05 mbps before it eventually picked up a bit.) Look at my username for a clue as to some of my planned stream content. I think now is as good of a time as any to get started. I could use my laptop's webcam if I had to, although I'd have to find something to put the laptop on. It would be much better if I could use my Panasonic FZ1000 as a webcam, and it looks like the Cam Link 4K would let me do that. Due to limited upload bandwidth, I'd probably only stream in like 720p or even 540p 30fps, but I do want the option of recording in 4K locally. (The camera doesn't support simultaneous output over HDMI while recording to the internal SD card, but it does have a clean HDMI out.) I put a couple pics in this spoiler - first one is from the laptop's webcam (don't know how to do a full-screen shot from the webcam, so I just did a screenshot with OBS), second one is from the FZ1000. Both were shot within a few seconds of each other - laptop using snipping tool with 5-second delay, camera had a 10-second delay on its shutter. Also here's a couple shots, taken with the Pixel 3a, from back some distance in the room, so you can see the laptop and the camera-on-tripod setup in the room. I would like to be able to allow people to go in and out of the pantry, and the tripod being where it is now would make that difficult. (I can crawl under the tripod just fine, but it would be a lot harder for my parents or other people to do that, and if my nephews & niece were here they'd probably end up knocking the tripod over anyway.) I was just thinking, maybe I could put the FZ1000 in the spot where the laptop is, but I'd need to get some kind of small mini-tripod that would support it. I could probably budget about $10 or $20 for something like that, maybe a bit more for a decent quality unit. For audio, I plan to use a Zoom H2n mounted inside my piano (a 1950s vintage Baldwin Hamilton school-style piano), wired up either to the camera's mic input, or the line input on the laptop. For voice chat (between songs - I don't see myself ever singing), I'm thinking of hooking up another microphone to the Zoom's line input. (The way I'd be using it, both the external mic and the mid-side internal mic would be used, but if I hook the Zoom to the laptop via USB, I could only use one.) The spoiler has a pic of the Zoom mounted inside the piano. (In the pic the lower panel / kick board is removed so you can see it mounted. When I'm actually streaming / recording it would be in place, to hopefully cut down on external noise getting in. In case it matters, my laptop (Clevo P750DM-G) has an i7-6700K, a GTX 970M 6GB, 64GB (4x16GB DDR4-2133) RAM, and boots off a 250GB SATA M.2 Crucial MX200 SSD. (It also has two 1050TB 2.5" Crucial MX300s and a 1TB 970 Evo M.2 SSD.) If I get and use a Cam Link, I could probably use my desktop as a streaming PC. (i7-4790K under a Hyper 212 Evo on an ASRock Z97 Extreme6, with 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3-1600 G.Skill RAM, booting from a 256GB Crucial M550 2.5" SATA SSD, plus other various HDDs depending on what I happen to have plugged in. Also have an EVGA SC GTX 1060 3GB but it's not installed right now.) I also saw the 4K60 S+ from Elgato, but it's a bit more than I want to spend, and I think for what I'd be doing, would be more than I would need. And there were a few other products that came up in my search, but I'm leaning strongly toward the Cam Link 4K as I think it would be the best thing for me - IF I could get one. Also it would be nice to be able to set up a second camera (like the Pixel 3a) with a top-down view of the keyboard on the piano while I'm playing. I don't know how I'd mount the phone, though. The spoiler has a pic from the Pixel 3a showing what it would see, followed by a screenshot from the laptop webcam of me holding the camera above the piano, while standing on the piano bench. In the actual streams / recorded videos, I would prefer that the phone, and whatever is holding it, not be visible in the main shot. Also I may crop the pixel to just show the keyboard, or I may take the stuff off the top of the piano and open the lid, making the mechanism inside the piano visible. Also would it be okay if I post (in a spoiler in a reply) links to a few videos I've done in the past on that piano, and on my other piano? (It's the same kind, just 6 years older, in another room in the house. Also I heard there might be something in the rules about certain things, just wanted to check before I went ahead with it. Some are on YouTube, some are on Google drive.) I have one that was shot with the FZ1000 and H2n on this piano (Don't Stop Believing by Journey), one is with the FZ1000 and H2n on the other piano (You Light Up My Life as performed by LeAnn Rimes), one is on both pianos with the FZ1000 (split screen) and H2n (Can't Help Falling In Love by Elvis Presley, could also post an audio-only version from the FZ1000's built-in mic), and one is with the laptop's webcam and built-in mic on the other piano (a medley of a few Sound of Music songs plus a couple gospel songs). That would give you some basic idea of what it might look and sound like (if I get the okay to post them), although they were recorded last year or before and may not have been set up exactly how I'd do it for a stream.
  7. I keep my daily driver (laptop) running all the time, except when it crashes, it somehow forces me to do an update (even when I've turned it off, sometimes it makes life miserable after a month or so of uptime until I update), or if I"m doing a hardware swap. My desktop, on the other hand, I only turn it on when I'm doing something with it, maybe several times a year at this point.
  8. Had my semi-local news station on, and they mentioned that not only is there a run on things like toilet paper, hand sanitizer, paper towels & water, ... but some companies are saying they're also seeing a run on computersespecially laptops, because of shelter-in-place orders, people telecommuting, etc.  They were saying it was even worse than Black Friday.



    Also I was thinking the last few days ... If things happen to where it's not possible for manufacturers to make new CPUs or other components at their normal pace, but have to slow way down ... What can be done to make our existing setups last longer?  And is it possible for the makers to extend their warranties, and/or reserve manufacturing for replacing dead parts?


    I've already heard about NVidia delaying the Ampere 30 series GPUs, wonder if other products might follow suit...


    I don't have any overclock configured on my two K-series CPUs (i7-4790K in desktop, i7-6700K in daily-driver laptop), but then I haven't set that up anyway, although I've tested a little.  I do have my 6700K undervolted to -150mV offset, maybe I should also be willing to consider underclocking it as well... Hopefully it will last long enough though to where I won't need to take such drastic measures.  (And I still have an i3-6100 I could put back in if the 6700K died - that is, if I haven't accidentally killed the i3 by dropping it on a linoleum floor once or twice, haven't had a way to test it though.)

  9. Am I the only one (or in the minority) here, or on other forums, who will sometimes (or maybe often) read topics that have recently gotten the ?? treatment, if it wasn't started by a moderator (and/or has > 0 replies), just for the possible "entertainment" value? ?

  10. @Slottr rather than filtering by chipset, you could filter by socket. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#f=8&sort=price&xcx=0&s=33 Doing it this way, the cheapest right now is the Asus Prime A320I-K at about $100 with tax. Guessing it's probably around $92 or so without tax, but pcpp is logged in for me and set to include tax in prices. (I may need to update the percentages though, wish it could automatically keep track.) Also the xcx=0 is to turn off compatibility filter, cause in this browser I have a partial build in my cookies or wherever it gets stored. The ASRock A320M-ITX can sometimes be found at the same price or cheaper, or sometimes the above mentioned Asus board is higher priced or out of stock. (They seem to battle each other as for which is cheapest.) Also those may need a BIOS update to support the 3000 series APUs.
  11. Ahh ... speaking of PSUs for Pentium II or other older systems .... "Tier D - Potentially dangerous, but only in specific situations" - would those, for example, be fine with an Ivy Bridge or other older-than-Haswell system? Or should they be relegated to pre-Pentium 4 duty (or when CPUs started using the 12V rail iirc)? "Tier E - Potentially dangerous in multiple scenarios" - Or would these be the ones that should be used for Pentium III and older? Or maybe this is the tier to look at if someone needs a pre-ATX (for example AT, XT, PC, etc) PSU? Also I've been thinking of an idea for a challenge for the PCMR community (or whoever, idk yet) to build a "cringe" gaming PC that has all the parts / features that would make entuhsiast gamers cringe, but at the same time doesn't blow up in their face, because they're using it appropriately (for example playing retro games). I won't give much details now, other than the PSU would have the voltage selector switch, no more than like 10A on the 12V rail (if it even has one at all), case would have a completely closed motherboard tray and no back-side cable management space, CPU air cooler can't have heatpipes or copper, GPU can't have cost more than $50 USD when it was new, can't use storage / boot drive faster than a 5400rpm PATA HDD, among other things. (Still kinda thinking about how I'd work out the details though, and idk when or where I'll post it yet - have no timetable, i've thought of it off and on over the last year or more iirc. ... as well as another one that basically would be like a REALLY retro PC, using only components from the days before any auto-configuration was supported, like MFM hard drives, ISA slots, AT PSUs, pre-SIMM RAM, etc.)
  12. Looks like it affects Intel CPUs in about the last 5 years ... so I wonder if my i7-6700K in my laptop might be affected? (I bought the CPU in November 2016.) Also hoping the i7-4790K in my desktop (bought January 2015) might be old enough to have dodged a bullet? Okay, so I'm pretty sure Intel won't be doing this, but we can dream ... it'd be nice if they could.... "Today we are proud to announce the new 11th-generation" (to give them a little extra time to patch, since I think 10th-gen LGA1xxx is pretty close?) "Rocket Lake Intel Core processors for mainstream desktop LGA1200 socket. Starting with our flagship Core i9-11900K, on the 10nm process node, it has 16 cores, 32 threads" ... "available" (a week later) "for $349." ... "We know many of our CPUs over the last several years have had some security vulnerabilities. We have patched those for our 11th-generation processors. Also, for those of you with older systems, we are making an unprecedented move - we are also releasing variants of Rocket Lake for some of our older sockets. In addition to the i9-11900K for LGA1200, there will also be the i9-11899K for LGA1151 300 series, i9-11898K for LGA1151 100 series, i9-11897K for LGA1150, i9-11896K for LGA1155, i9-11895K for LGA1156, i9-11894K for LGA775, i9-11893K for Socket 478, i9-11892K for Socket 370, i9-11891K for Slot 1, i9-11890K for Socket 7, and so on." (Or, anything before LGA775 (which I think was the first socket to have CPUs with a TDP of ~130W) would only have lower tier CPUs, like non-K or even -T, -U or -Y, and maybe only like i5 or i3 or even Celeron for the oldest sockets back to like the 386 or 486, or whichever was the first to have a vulnerability.) "We will note that some of those older sockets have long since been discontinued, and not many people will be using them anymore, so anything before LGA775 will be available only by special order." Yeah, I know that's not gonna happen.
  13. Hey was wondering, what do you think the quality of this PSU would have been in its day, relative to other PSUs then available? (For example assume the best available then would have been Tier A+ or Tier S, even if by today's standards, quality or design or otherwise, they wouldn't even qualify for Tier E.) I don't think it would have been high end, but would it have been maybe midrange, or on the lower end, or would it have been a firebomb even then?
  14. Yes, and they do exist in mITX form. Was just looking on Supermicro's site, and I saw at least one board (an LGA2066) that supports 512GB ECC LR-DIMMs. I'm sure there's more, as I had only scrolled a little down the list.
  15. Yeah, I'm kind of eyeing Epyc for my next build, depending on what I can afford then. Looking at buying around the Black Friday after DDR5 comes out, when the 1st-gen DDR5-compatible parts have dropped in price significantly, like the equivalent of TR 1950X in Dec 2019, or R7 1700/2700 in Q4 2019. (For example, maybe BF 2021 or 2022.) I don't think I need dual sockets (although it'd be nice to have if the motherboard, cpus & eeb-compatible cases aren't too expensive), but I would like a lot of PCIe \ I/O lanes (doubting if 64 5.0 will be enough, would help if it lets me split to like 128 4.0, 256 3.0, 512 2.0) and support for registered and/or LR-DIMMs. Also I want the RAM capacity increase rate of my next system to at least keep up with my & family's previous few RAM size upgrades. (Basically, 64MB * 4 = 256MB * 8 = 2GB * 16 = 32GB * 32 = 1TB, to simplify things somewhat.) I might start with 128 or 256 GB in single-channel, depending on affordability. That's assuming 4 unbuffered DIMMs. Adding DIMM 5 (or 4 if you start counting at 0) or going registered would be on top of that. For example, with 16 LR-DIMMs, assuming a 8x capacity increase over unbuffered(ddr4 has 256gb rdimm, 32gb udimm, 256÷32=8), I might eventually have like 128 TB RAM in the system. (8tb * 16 dimm) "Eventually" would be a while - like maybe when DDR5 prices per DIMM are about where max-capacity DDR2 eBay prices are now. I do hope to keep that system longer than my previous ones, and upgrade the cpu every 3-4 years several times. (I anticipate replacing the Seasonic Prime PSU, or whatever, a few times after they die out of warranty, before I replace the motherboard, then replace the motherboard a couple times before I replace the case. Not going into detail now why, I've already done enough detail for this post. I wish I could zoom out on my phone, while composing or editing, to show the same amount on screen as a 4K or 8K desktop can with the browser set to 50% zoom, so I'd have more room to see the entire post without scrolling. Also the forum software would need to let the post take up the full screen width even when you use F11.)
  16. Yeah, closing apps, etc. is so 1980s (or whenever was the last decade before multi-tasking-capable CPUs and operating systems existed). I'd like to be able to turn off my pagefile entirely, AND when editing large files, use RAM as a scratch disk instead of an SSD. (64GB is proving to be way too limiting for me, but that's the max my laptop supports. Desktop only supports 32GB. Hoping my next desktop, when DDR5 comes out, supports at least 1 or 2 TB, assuming unbuffered DIMMs in 4 slots.)
  17. From what I've heard about the ST3000DM001, you might have got lucky. I think that particular model of drive is one that has a reputation for just up and dying suddenly. Best to get the data you can off it, while you still can. If you don't already have a drive to copy the stuff to, I suggest not accessing that Seagate drive at all until you do have one. (If it was me, I might even unplug it until I had the drive to copy to, but in a situation like with that drive, idk if things could be worse.) @RejZoR mentioned pending sectors. If I see just one of those, it's past time for my drive to go to the inter-galactic bit bucket.
  18. Not sure if this is worthy of its own topic (cause I'm not close enough to being ready to buy something) but ...

    If you have a locked CPU (like an i9-9900T or i9-9900F), can you still set the all-core multiplier up to the single-core boost spec (just not higher)?


    Also, for anyone that has an i9-9900K, what speed does it run at under load on all cores, and what score does it get in Cinebench R15 & R20, if you set the power limit to various 15-watt increments from 120 watts down to about 30 watts?  And for those tests, no allowing it to run higher for a short time, it would need to be hard-capped.

    (If I was going to get one, it'd be going into a thermally-constrained environment, where 105-110 watts or so is pretty close to the limit.  I've heard those CPUs can go well over TDP at "stock" settings.)

  19. Hey does anyone know how to get rid of this copy/paste popup that froze itself on my screen?  It persists even when I switch apps or lock & unlock the screen, and I really don't want to reboot or kill / restart Chrome.





  20. Okay I'm confuzzled. ??


    Yesterday I saw a topic locked by a moderator, saying crazy parts lists should go in status updates.


    Today I see another one, this time the moderator says they're not allowed.



    Where does that leave crazy expensive parts lists like this one?


    PCPartPicker Part List

    CPU: Intel Celeron G3900 2.8 GHz Dual-Core Processor  ($45.98 @ Newegg) 
    Motherboard: ASRock H110M-HDS R3.0 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($51.99 @ Amazon) 
    Memory: Crucial 4 GB (1 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory  ($17.99 @ Adorama) 
    Storage: Toshiba 320 GB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($18.98 @ Amazon) 
    Case: CiT F3 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($30.58 @ Amazon) 
    Power Supply: CoolMax 500 W ATX Power Supply  ($20.92 @ Amazon) 
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($99.99 @ B&H) 
    Monitor: Acer K202HQL 19.5" 1600x900 60 Hz Monitor  ($64.98 @ Amazon) 
    Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard  ($6.49 @ Target) 
    Mouse: Adesso iMouse M6 Wired Optical Mouse  ($4.99 @ Amazon) 
    Headphones: Rosewill E-210-VL Earbud  With Microphone  ($4.99 @ Amazon) 
    Total: $367.88
    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-02-26 17:37 EST-0500


    Even if you take off the OS and peripherals, that system is still an astronomically-high 18,644¢!


    I hope they're still okay in status updates?




    Challenge for someone now is ...


    Come up with a complete system, including peripherals - using used parts, with the TOTAL cost (including shipping, tax & setup labor where applicable) being less than the cost of a new dedicated GPU that has the same performance as the iGPU in the above build.  (Alternatively, less than the cost of a new GT 710.)

    The build has to include OS, software and games in the price too.  No using key reseller sites that sell for pennies on the dollar, except for titles that are no longer sold through normal "official" channels.  (Software has to be bought new at the "official" price, if it is still sold new by the publisher / authorized stores.)


    1. Cyberspirit


      Part lists and all that are allowed as long as you plan on making it or asking advice about it.

      The ones that get locked are usually just stuff people put together for the sake of a joke.

  21. How about if the mods make one sticky and link the other important posts in there? (They could also leave a few of the most important ones stickied as well.) One issue I have with looking for PSUs is ... sometimes (or often) my ideas of use cases involve loading a PSU, possibly to close to its max advertised rating, using components OTHER than video cards or high-power CPUs. For a few "less-normal" examples, one could be a system with a 1600W PSU, about 1580W worth of hard drives connected, and running a heavily underclocked (0.8 GHz, 1 core with SMT off) 35W (nerfed to like 2W) APU. Another (currently way over my budget) might be a board like the X10QBI paired with heavily underclocked E7-4809 v4's (what might their power consumption be at 0.8 GHz, 1 core, HT off?), and 96 DIMMs which is the max that board supports. (Or is there another configuration that could run like 1.5 kW of RAM with like 15 W or so of underclocked CPU?) A third scenario could involve a ton of usb devices. Basically ... I want to be able to load a PSU with ANY combination of components (storage, RAM, usb devices, etc) or rails, up to the big advertised wattage number, without having to use GPUs, or mostly load the 12V rail. It seems a Corsair HX750 or a Rosewill Tachyon 1200W PSU would be a waste if all I was powering was 16+ HDDs and an underclocked APU. (Looked at a couple other PSUs, looks like they max out at 6 jacks for SATA/peripheral cables - at 4 devices per cable that's 24 devices. Even so I still don't think that's enough HDDs to max out the wattage.) I ran a test earlier today with a few drives (mentioned in the spoiler with other parts used) powered by my Corsair AX760 in my desktop system, hooked up to a Kill-A-Watt meter in a power strip. (Couldn't reach the wall outlet, also I know @jonnyGURU / others have said it's pretty inaccurate, but it's all we had laying around.) Peak wattage reading I saw with the KAW were: 116 Watts, when powering up the system (after underclocking ; was 129 before) 79.2 Watts using HDTune benchmark on 12 drives. 74.0 Watts using HDTune scan on 12 drives. I uploaded a few short videos / pics to a Google photos album. SO ... How would I max out the 760 watts that PSU should be able to do, using ONLY SSDs and/or HDDs? Or at least close enough so that one more SATA SSD would put it over. And, no adding video cards, or running the CPU above the lowest possible settings (like I had it, although I didn't undervolt this time), etc. And when the time comes to plan my next build (after DDR5 & PCIe 5 or 6 have been released & come down from the initial "early adopter tax), how would I ensure that I can power any combination of components up to the "X-Watt PSU" maximum?
  22. Just be careful, when you do that, to unplug all other drives (except the "new" 128GB Kingston SSD, and the USB stick if Linux doesn't fully load into RAM) to hopefully eliminate the risk of nuking your other data.
  23. You know you listened to a song too much when ... Even after having not heard it in several years, you recognize it immediately even after only hearing like 2 or 3 notes in the music (and only part of one vocal syllable).


    Me a couple minutes ago, hearing Hoobastank - The Reason.  (Music at a local Baskin Robbins had been playing something else - I think Britney Spears - Oops, I Did It Again, then someone switched it mid-song to the other then immediately went to something else I didn't recognize.)




    Reminds me of a time at a church gathering, we were having a contest to see how quickly we could recognize songs we knew, with someone playing them on piano.


    Some of us were correctly guessing after hearing like only TWO NOTES!

    1. greenmax


      Classiques are like that!

  24. For me, just ONE reallocated or even pending sector (or other error or issue) is enough to retire a hard drive from daily mainstream use. That drive had been doing this for a while. It currently works seemingly fine now, but I wouldn't trust it for anything critical. Also for some reason CrystalDiskInfo in Windows doesn't see SMART info, so I had to use Linux. From what I understand, reallocated sectors on SSDs are fine, its part of their normal operation over time. (Someone want to write a song about SSD and HDD reliability? ?) However, i would be ????? if it ramped up quickly.
  25. I too have been wanting to know what cases (preferably not exorbitantly priced) can hold lots of HDDs, at least way more than 8 or 10. (I've noticed the $50 Apex Vortex 3620 can supposedly hold 10 drives, if it's possible to mount 3.5" HDDs in the 2 ext 3.5" FDD bays, or 12 if you can use a 5-in-3 converter cage in the 3 ext 5.25" bays.) For example, what non-rack cases can (natively) support 40 3.5" HDDs per PCIe case expansion slot? For example, if you put a High Point Rocket 750 in each slot and maxed out its drives. That Rocket 750 for ~$76 shipped looks very tempting, but they normally go for $700+ (or at least 400+ used) so that low price concerns me even though the seller says like new guaranteed tested working. I would also be fine with 16 drives per case expansion slot, like if I was going to use 9200-16e HBAs, which start at $24. My Define R5 doesn't have enough 3.5" bays. (Not to mention I also lack enough SATA & PATA power & data connections.) I wonder how many more HDDs could fit if I switched the CPU cooler to a 120mm AIO or a 1U heatsink (or underclocked low enough to just use the heat spreader bare), and used a riser cable for any PCIe HBAs I might install... When full, the case should have no more free (empty air) space inside than an all-in-one PC, laptop, or even tablet or smartphone has. ?