Aniallation

Yes. It is sufficient for pretty much any single GPU setup.

What PSU is it exactly, and what GPU were you planning to get ?

You're fine with the motherboard you have unless you want to OC, but even if you do, there's still not that much benefit without actually getting serious about it. As long as you're able to keep your CPU decently cool, PBO and XFR should already be giving you strong boost clocks.

If BIOS settings (CMOS), RAM, or even CPU were bad, it would still "turn on", just won't POST. It sounds like either a PSU or motherboard issue. However, as there are still signs of power like the CMOS clear button lighting up, I'm inclined to suspect the board.

You could always set them up in a pull configuration so that the fans are mounted on the "back" of the rad and are pulling air through it. Makes it a bit easier to clean as well as dust isn't trapped between the rad and fans if they were mounted on the "front" of the rad and pushing air through it.

Is the pump running? Thermal paste good?

Just download the latest AMD drivers and install them. The newer Adrenalin installers have a built in "clean install" option so make sure you leave that checked if presented. Once those are done you're good to go.

Backstory: It's about time that the misses younger brother got his first phone, but I didn't want to spend too much to get him one to start him off, and performance didn't need to be any more than usable, so I was keeping an eye on the local classifieds looking for a good deal to come up on something like a used Galaxy S6 or original Pixel, preferably around the 120 Canadian dollars mark. However, with a used device of a decent age, there's always the threat of something hidden being wrong with it, or a worn out non-replaceable battery holding a poor charge. Browsing through Amazon later on though, I saw the Umidigi A3S and A3X listed for $120 CAD and was immediately intrigued and thought I'd give it a try to see just how bad a brand new smartphone could be for the same price as what people want for old weights sitting in their drawers. Initial Impressions: In the box along with the charger and manual, Umidigi also includes a pre-applied basic plastic screen protector and a black TPU case. Nothing fancy, but when you don't even get these with $1200 phones, it was a very pleasant surprise on a $120 phone. The phone feels very solid, the build is glass front and back with a metal frame around the edges. It has a good heft to it without feeling too heavy, although it is a bit on the thicker side. The buttons have a nice click to them and overall it feels nice in the hand. The good: Performance: The phone has a Helio A22 chipset with eight A53 cores at 2.0GHz and 3GBs of RAM. While not fast by any means, it definitely has no problem with the typical daily tasks one would do on a smartphone. Browse the web, watch YouTube, stream Spotify, scroll through social media, etc. Casual games run just fine as well, though obviously more demanding stuff like PUBG and COD mobile are out of the question. Expansion & Connectivity: Dual SIM with LTE connection available on both. 16GB of storage is built in but can be expanded via the MicroSD slot up to 128GB, and it is a triple-slot tray so you can use two SIMs AND a MicroSD card at the same time. And most importantly of all, there is a headphone jack. Battery Life: I tried it out as my daily driver for a few days and during normal use battery life was great, I never finished a day with less than 30% remaining. OS: The phone runs Android 10 which is currently the latest version, and completely stock with no unnecessary skin and very little bloatware (all of which can be uninstalled). The alright: Display: With a 720p resolution the pixel density isn't too bad, but the colors are somewhat washed out, and viewing angles aren't amazing. WiFi performance: The 5GHz reception is very weak, even though my room is only one floor up and directly above where the router (Archer C20) is, and all other devices in my room work on the 5GHz network just fine, the A3X shows a very weak signal and 90% of the time fails to connect. The 2.4GHz WiFi works perfectly though and no complaints there. The complaints: Camera: Images with either the front or rear camera look alright under bright daylight, but anything less and they become quite washed out, the colors go funny, and there's quite a loss of detail as noise becomes more prevalent especially once you get to low light where images really become grainy. The viewfinder in the camera app has a very low framerate even with good lighting making it kind of frustrating to use. It's still perfectly usable for the quick Snapchat message or Instagram story and therefore not a huge deal for my use case, but don't expect anything great. Charging speed: The phone comes with only a 5V/1A charger, not because they're cheap, but because that's all it supports. Charging with a 2.1A unit doesn't make it any faster, so it can take a while for the 3300mAh battery to fill up from empty. It also uses a MicroUSB port which is a bit behind the times for a "2020 design device" when just about everyone has switched to USB-C. Umidigi A3X Samsung Galaxy S8 Overall: For the price it is simply an awesome value even compared to what you could find for the price as far as used devices go, with a fresh battery and a lot more assurance that everything will work properly. It's far from what I'd call an amazing phone in the greater picture, but when taking into account such a low cost it makes an awesome choice for me as teenager's first phone that they just want to be able to text and go on social media with and that I won't be too chafed at the financial loss if they end up losing or breaking it. It is also available in an alternate form which is the A3S. The difference between the two is that the A3S has a smaller display but in a standard aspect ratio without the "notch" that seems to bother some people. It also has a slightly larger battery. The rest of the specs and build are the same. I am in Canada and got my A3X on Amazon. It does not appear to be listed on the US Amazon site, although it is available on AliExpress as well for $70 USD.

There's not really a direct replacement fan for the Wraith cooler unless you happen to have another one. If not, might as well just use it as an excuse to get a better cooler.

I've had this happen before due to the speed sensor in the fan going bad. Even though it was still working just fine physically, sometimes the tachometer signal would drop out and report 0rpm giving a CPU fan error and PC would shut down to protect itself because it thinks the fan stopped working. Though it shouldn't be related to your BIOS freezing up. Is it on the latest BIOS?

If Windows 10 is giving you the " USB Device Not Recognized" popup it means there's an issue with the communication lines. If it's doing it on multiple different USB ports on your PC, it usually stems from a damaged cable or USB port on the device.

What kind of PSU is it? I'm assuming you're referring to the modular cables?

Well outside of the overkill argument, to answer your question yes it should work just fine, the PCIe standard is made to be backward and forward compatible.

Buying new in 2020, a hard drive is a hard drive. If you're using it for just game storage and not for like a boot drive or important data, anything from a known brand will be just fine. There hasn't really been any notable advancements in HDD technology for years, just capacity.

Honestly, send it 22A on the 12V rail on that PSU is nothing to write home about (it uses the old school trick to inflate it's wattage rating by having a big 5V rail instead), but with an A4 and a 1050Ti, you will pretty much never see a realistic gaming load pulling even half that much amperage from it. (And that's total power consumption from the wall with an overclocked i7) Heck my 1050Ti and i5-2400 has ran off a 240W FSP PSU for years and still is. Never once had an issue.

Is this the PSU we're talking about?

As questionable of a power supply as that is, I still see no problem with it running a 1050Ti. Those cards barely draw any power at all. What are the other specs of your PC? Do you currently have a dedicated GPU?

There's mannyy different options, and I'm kind of out of the loop lately lol. But if you could list some available options in the 500-550W range that are preferably gold and/or modular, I could go from there. If they're within your budget of course.

They likely won't list it because officially B350 is not supported to support 3000 series. BUT, MSI did add support for many of their older boards. I have the B350M Gaming Pro, and on the latest BIOS it works perfectly with a 3600.

Thanks for continuing this! Never truly retired I guess, I still pop in and out occasionally xP

I would choose a lower wattage but higher quality PSU, but that's from the perspective of someone in NA. If there's a limited selection where you are in the Philippines and you can only get Corsair the CV650 is still a decent choice. A 5700/5700XT will also give you better value over the Nvidia cards as long as you're not concerned about ray tracing.

I definitely wouldn't say that being too old is why you're having issues as PCIe should be a common standard. I threw my 1050Ti into my old P4 775 machine for fun a while back and it still worked just fine.

IMO as far as price to performance goes, for light-duty a half decent air cooler will give you better value than one of the small thin 120mm AIOs, but for heavy-duty applications you'll still end up having to spend quite a bit to get a beefy air cooler that can match the performance of a good 240/280mm AIO.