njmyers3

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About njmyers3

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel core i7 6700k
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z170 Pro Gaming Aura (RGB)
  • RAM
    16GB Kingston Fury 4x4 DDR4 2400MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1070 8GB FTW ACX 3.0 (RGB)
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition (With NZXT Hue)
  • Storage
    Intel 256GB NVMe SSD + 2TB WD Black HDD
  • PSU
    Be Quiet! Dark Power Pro 11 850W
  • Display(s)
    Dell U2414H (x2) (I'm planning to get a 4k monitor too)
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
  • Keyboard
    Logitech g105 (Planned: Corsair k95)
  • Mouse
    Corsair Sabre RGB
  • Sound
    Computer Speakers + Sennheiser 558's + Modmic
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    Computers, Videography, Video games, Programming
  • Occupation
    Student

Recent Profile Visitors

775 profile views
  1. Yeah, I'd use a Linux Server distro. Running Windows alone on a $300 computer doesn't do very well, so running Windows Server with clients connecting to it probably wouldn't be a great idea.
  2. If the drives are from 2010 they should be using SATA, so you can just connect that to your PC like a modern drive. I'm not gonna say that it's impossible for malware on the drives to infect your system, but it's extremely unlikely. Unless you already have malware on your system that could execute it, or you execute it, it has no way of running. Also, malware from 2010 is unlikely to affect a modern operating system, even with Windows Defender as the antivirus.
  3. You could put some ice on it and use a thermal camera. \s But seriously, I'd recommend Cable Mod for cables. Your PC already looks pretty nice, but the ketchup-mustard cables take away from it. Of coarse you can always add more lights
  4. You really NEED a wired connection for it to work, but as long as you have that it works really well.
  5. A front end web developer designs the webpages in html and probably JavaScript. JavaScript would also probably be a front end developer's job. It makes web pages responsive and act more like mobile apps. A back end developer would work with databases and PHP.
  6. Looks pretty cool, but the TV looks really small. I don't know if you can get a bigger desk, but that would be helpful. Also a tip: You can remove the stand on the top monitor by right clicking it and selecting "edit component." You may need to do it a few times because the creator may have nested components or groups.
  7. That's a pretty nice setup. Your networking stuff is pretty close to what I'm planning to get. I have a 6700k and 1070 wtih air cooling, so your PC certainly draws more electricity, but it should be pretty close while idle.
  8. I have three different Cyberpower models and they all work well, I'd get anything from them that you can get in Australia.
  9. I'd recommend this one https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102048 I have the older version of this one and I'm very happy with it. It keeps my PC and a few other things running for over an hour at an 80 watt load. At maximum load it can last for about 10 minutes. I wouldn't recommend an APC one because I've had a bad past experience with them. Edit: I found the one that I have, but it's a bit more expensive and has fewer outlets. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ZX57V9169 I got it for $120 on sale.
  10. Carriers can detect tethering in many ways, here's what I found: https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/47819/how-can-phone-companies-detect-tethering-incl-wifi-hotspot
  11. Option 1: Figure out what applications are using it and stop them. Option 2: Get an SSD or faster hard drive
  12. Haha, yep. I'd recommend unplugging all of the front panel connectors and start on the bottom left -> bottom right -> top left -> top right so it's easier.
  13. Nope, it just won't light up. The LED will not be damaged.
  14. I kinda like it, it makes the case look more clean by not having multiple lights on it.
  15. Yep, the power light is always a solid color and blinks another color when the HDD is active. I have the blackout edition, so the light is always white and then blinks blue when there is disk access. Your color may be different, but the HDD indicator is built into the power light.