AnonymousGuy

The PSU itself is rated for spikes way beyond its sticker too, FYI. You can run a 4070 on a 550W power supply and it'll be just fine. There's not really many builds that need an 800W+ power supply unless they're so high end where the power supply cost doesn't really mattery anyways....as a rule of thumb right now.

Just about every other brand is either as good or better than EK, but most people don't get exposure to other brands. We'll probably have a rennaisance now that every Youtuber is dropping EK. Even JayzEKDickriding has "discovered" other brands now. That brand is Optimus which is still wildly overpcied and overhyped but still....he's making progress...kinda.

Vaguely related....still waiting on an ultrawide with 2160 vertical pixels and >120hz refresh rate to get me to consolidate down from three 4K screens. Although I think I may be waiting for DP 2.0 graphics cards to drive that with a single cable.

I normally don't bitch about pricing but god DAMN the pricing is wild if you want the nanoetched matte screen or whatever and have to buy a 1TB iPad Pro.

Where LMG is located, their average summer temperature is room temperature. TBH I think they're doing this over-complicated shit for content. I just can't believe they're *that dumb* overall and they can't see much more straightforward options [with basically everything they do]. Except Alex...I've seen enough to conclude he's one of those "C's get degrees" engineers.

I still feel like the power limits are being used to indirectly clamp the frequency down...so it lowers the voltage. Reliable voltage spec on these things is 1.425V (like Nvidia, Intel calls it Vrel) but they needed more than that to hit the multi core turbo frequencies (AKA turbo boost) that marketing asked for. (yes marketing asks for specs and there's then negotiation with engineering whether it's possible or not and then there's more discussion about whether the wafer yields can support the demand at the various binning levels)

They're in canada...plumb a giant air to water heat exchanger on the roof and call it a day. "but AnonymousGuy what if it gets below the dew point" oh gee no one could possibly come up with a controller to bypass the roof exchanger automatically.

Scuf pissed me off during covid when they were like "oh yeah we're not dealing with any warranty replacements cuz covid". It was a full custom controller too so like $250. For that much money I expect them to be like "we're sending you out a new one right away, you can return your old one in the next 90 days". So they had a chance to be a hero but ended up being a zero and I won't buy their shit again. So to also answer the original question: the hardware reliability is the same as the stock controllers.

This has been done before...and it doesn't really work well. You need a lot of surface area between the water and the metal to get effective heat transfer. There's just not enough there with the IHS by itself making contact with water. Someone has also done direct die - direct water cooling where they seal around the substrate and have water swirling over the die. It doesn't work as well as a normal waterblock for the same reason above.

I'm at 130+wpm and I don't use my right hand for any of the modifier keys. I shift my left fingers while my pinky is occupied with shift key so if I need to do a capital A I'm hitting shift with my pinky and A with my ring finger.

Lots of pirated content. Essentially I'm hosting a private version of netflix for my family and friends.

Why do keyboards have two shift keys? (cause left + right hand) Personally I'm only using all those keys with my left hand and the right ones are never touched.

Funny enough I smoked a 14900k with it just *existing* with all of the limit settings turned off. My guess is that the default state sends way too much voltage at idle (like 1.55V). It eventually got to the point where SVID had to be set to "Intel Fail Safe" which dumps in even more voltage to get the thing stable. And then it really easily hits TJmax. I just said fuckit and put a non-K in. Seems to have a way more sane VF curve and less fuckery of clock settings than you get with a K even when you're leaving everything on Auto. There's probably a combination of Intel pushing too far and mobo vendors not bothering to define stable, validated default settings.

As recent as last year their coolants were on "do not buy" lists because of clogging blocks. Few years ago they were talking shit about Mayhem coolant being to blame for their plating failures (again) and then they got dunked on when Mick @ Mayhem was like "oh yeah BTW you guys were rebranding our coolant anyways sooooooo yeah". Years before that their "warranty void if sticker removed" bullshit. And overall their stuff is pretty much always the most expensive option and when you put it up against Alphacool or Watercool it isn't even close in terms of hydraulic design quality or finishing. Their business for the last 10+ years has been "max $, minimum quality, and accept no responsibility for any failures in field". So my recommendation to everyone whose like "oh should I buy EK?" nope, go on aliexpress and buy Bykski and it's the same thing at 1/5th the cost. Or pay slightly less and buy Watercool or Alphacool stuff that is bomb proof.

I'd be fine with EK disappearing. Quality on par with China and price on par with Europe. But every kid buys them because they don't know any better than sponsored youtubers telling them that's what they use *cough jayztwocents*. And I'll never forgive or forget them blaming literally everything but their own shitty nickel plating. Hell I have a picture somewhere of their "gold" plating peeling off.