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Vellinious

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Everything posted by Vellinious

  1. The colder you keep it, the higher it'll boost.
  2. Then it's not hitting the power limit perf cap...if it were, it would throttle to stay under the power limit.
  3. 106% power limit could be plenty, depending on what the limits are set for in the bios. Stock bios, probably not high enough. Upping the voltage, if he's already at the power limit under load, won't do anything but make it hit the power limit sooner, btw....
  4. If Minecraft is single threaded, yes...absolutely possible. The Ryzen CPUs are great for things with multiple threads, but not so much for lightly threaded games and applications. Need to see single core usage on the CPU to tell if it's happening, though.
  5. Agree with lowering the voltage. Shouldn't need much to let boost 3.0 do it's job and hit 2k. Shouldn't need but 1.02v to 1.03v to hit those clocks, WITH a custom fan curve to keep the core cooler. The cooler you keep the core, the less voltage it'll require to hit those clocks. And....that's IF you even need the additional clock speed to maintain your hash rate.
  6. I've never seen a Pascal bios viewer.....have you? No? Cause it doesn't exist.
  7. There is no biod modding program for pascal. It doesn't work that way anymore.
  8. At normal ambient temps, about 20c, I can run mine at 2150 game stable, and it stays there. Those clocks I referred to before are benchmark stable. Core temps are everything...the lower the better. I would shoot for no higher than 40c on the core to be able to retain a decent clock without having to touch the voltage. I can maintain that 2150 for gaming, without adding any additional voltage (it runs 1.043v at that clock / temp), without ever going above 40c (ambient temp of around 18-20c)....and, as I said before, this card isn't a great overclocker.
  9. The trick to overclocking pascal, is core temps. The colder you keep the core, the higher it'll boost, and the longer it will maintain that clock without boost 3.0 throttling the GPU down. Adding voltage without first dropping core temps, a LOT, is effectually useless. This card on air would barely reach 2150. On water with 20c ambients, it'd hit 2200. With coolant temps at -6c, it hits 2278. All with stock voltage.
  10. You can ask here.....looks like someone is still actively doing these bios mods. Most of us have moved on. Post with a copy of your card's original bios, and if someone is still active on this thread, they'll mod it for you. http://www.overclock.net/t/1573308/nvidia-gtx-900-cards-custom-bios-upon-request
  11. So, roll back to a driver that worked the best.
  12. I've run SLI setups for years and never ran into any issues. That said, the single more powerful card is almost always the better solution, but SLI is still very viable as an option.
  13. There is absolutely NOTHING in the stock bios of a 970 that will allow you to hurt that GPU in any way, shape or form. That includes the voltage. Just make sure you keep it running cool....Maxwell GPUs love to run cool.
  14. Horizontally mounted motherboard.
  15. I had a 1500X matched with a 1080 and didn't see any issues....I would imagine there are games that it would hold back at 1080, but at 1440 or higher, you shouldn't have any problems.
  16. Depending on the GPU, it'll either max out at 1.212v or 1.282v...either is just fine.
  17. I'd go with the Ryzen. Wouldn't even think twice about it.
  18. What Carclis said.....and I'll add. Using the offset method, you're allowing the software to create a generic voltage / frequency curve, and they're usually pretty horrible. Setting the voltage / frequency curve manually, is key to a good overclock. As well as keeping the GPU as cold as possible. The colder it is, the higher you'll be able to get it to boost.
  19. As the other poster said, I'd definitely reseat the GPU with a high quality thermal paste. Can't hurt, and will probably help. Air flow in a case is important, obviously....slightly more intake, than exhaust, ensures positive air pressure inside the case, which should decrease dust build up. Adding an AIO for the CPU....that's fine and good, but using the warm air from inside the case, to exhaust out through the radiator, will only decrease the AIO's cooling performance. Warmer air running through the radiator, increases the minimum temperature that the coolant can be cooled to, thus reducing efficiency. You ALWAYS want the coolest air possible, going through the radiator. There are no exceptions.
  20. I don't believe the 3000 with 16 cas is Sammy B-die...the 3200 14 is. If ya want the best, ya gotta pay for it.
  21. No....I'm in a group over on OCN that is full of Ryzen owners. The greater majority of 1600 / 1600X owners that can hit 4ghz, are on the 370 chipset, and running the 1600X. There are 1600s that can hit that mark, but they're fewer and farther between. Air or watercooling....doesn't matter. Before I put my block on, I had this 1600X running 4ghz with the 1500X stock air cooler. If you're pushing voltage high enough that air cooling isn't sufficient to reach it, you aren't likely to reach it on water either. Temps aren't the primary limiting factor on Ryzen. And, again...no. The 350 and 370 chipsets aren't equal in overclocking. The bios options for overclocking are vastly different between the two boards. To get a good clock, and get it dialed in well, the higher end boards are the way to go. The cheaper boards have no LLC control, offset voltage only, and, as you said, limited capability in the VRM department.
  22. If you're willing to pay extra for looks, you should be willing to lay out a little more for better performance then to. Look for the 3200 ram with 14 timings. It'll make Ryzen much happier. IMO, if you're wanting to overclock, I feel the 1600X is worth the extra. It seems like the majority of them will hit that 4ghz mark, where the majority of those with the 1600 are down around 3.8 or 3.9. Not a huge difference, but notable. Also, if you plan on overclocking, I'd highly suggest the X370 chipset.
  23. I dunno...I've had mine for over a year now, and haven't seen any cracking. Still....copper and nickel aren't going to cause any problems anyway.
  24. I used a Bykski on a single 1080 FTW and EK blocks on two other 1080 FTWs I've had in an out of my rig. I kept the GPU with the Bykski block and sold the FTWs with the EK blocks. The Bykski cooled better than the EK blocks by about 12c under load, with clocks above 2200. I tried several different mounts, moved the blocks from one card to another, to see if it was something in the mount, or the GPU itself, but it didn't matter. The flow rates were slightly better and perform better by a decent margin every time. Now, that's just this ONE block, but......I'm sold. I'll be using them again.
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