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Every few months I like to backup my entire Documents folder in addition to my *ahem* legally downloaded media to an 8 TB drive on my home network. It'll basically sync the most recent version to the backup location skipping anything that's already there and hasn't been changed. The website may look a bit janky, but I've used a program called DSynchronize for several years. Might be worth looking at. http://dimio.altervista.org/eng/dsynchronize/dsynchronize.html

Looks nice but the fans being mounted with the stickers not displayed in the same direction causes my OCD to flare up.

I would be extremely wary of used m.2 drives right now with the recent explosion of Chia crypto farmers. I won't get into the gory details but as you may be aware, SSDs have a limited number of write cycles calculated as Terabytes Written (TBW). Chia crypto farmers can exhaust the TBW of a single consumer SSD in a matter of weeks and you'll only know this by looking at the SMART information. Serious Chia farmers tend to use multiple m.2 drives simultaneously and I imagine once their drives start showing signs of failure, those less honorable farmers will try to pawn those drives off to unknowing individuals.

I use Google Fi which can switch between Sprint, T-Mobile and U.S. Cellular depending on which is available or stronger.

I'd say it all depends on ambient room temperature and case fans providing adequate cooling. I think it's even possible to set MSI Afterburner's custom fan curve to not even turn the fans on until the GPU hits a certain temperature (like 50c) to minimize noise, and 44c is definitely a safe temperature. That said, ideally, I think 30-35c would be normal for an idle 3070 with proper cooling with a 20c ambient temperature.

I can only offer my opinion on the monitor I purchased in June of this year, the Viotek GFT27DB. I absolutely love it and the price is incredible at around $259.99 at walmart.com. My only complaint is a minor one. When I press the power button to turn it off, it opens the OSD menu requiring me to press the same button again to actually turn it off. It's too bad rtings.com doesn't have a review of it, but I'll link one of the reviews that helped me with my decision.

going through my emails, it seems $9.90 USD for 1yr

I was also a huge fan of SpeedFan until it stopped working each time I played PUBG. Something with their anti-cheat system. SpeedFan was the only program I could find that allowed me to adjust case fan speeds based on GPU and/or CPU temperature until I found Argus Monitor, it has the same capabilities. I've since paid for a 1 year license and will probably continue it.

In stock again at $2.48 USD

I must disagree. I initially purchased a 7200rpm WD Blue and returned it for being too loud. Was sent a refurbished WD Blue that was also equally loud. Frustrated, I decided to swap brands. My 7200rpm 3TB Seagate Barracuda can be heard whirring away at idle from over 6 feet away. Now, it's possible my luck is just horrendous or I have overly sensitive hearing, but I've resorted to a network based storage with a cheap PC hidden in my closet to save what remaining sanity I have remaining. @SRRAE I even made a video to document the sound of the refurbished WD Blue. I know it's not the best practice to unplug a running HDD, but the whirring noise is simply too much for me and I wanted to show the comparison. Note the 2.5 inch drive running quietly beside it. Not sure if it's the size, or the 5400rpm making it quiet, but perhaps slower is better.

Another thing to keep in mind is the current price of BTC. As I'm sure you're aware, it crashed rather hard causing mining profits to be in the negative. Too expensive in electric costs to keep them going versus revenue. This has caused miners to sell all their cards at a loss (like I did), even perfectly good cards, just to get out quick. This is different from a card sold during peak mining times last Summer. Then, I would have wondered if someone was selling their broken cards for a low price. Now, personally, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a used mining card should my faithful EVGA card die. Though I would probably eyeball the RTX 2060 pretty hard first.

As a former miner myself (mined with two 1070s), I can honestly say most miners have been given a horrible reputation due largely to the influx in GPU prices we saw last Summer. I researched the hell out of mining before I got in to it. I joined Facebook groups and subscribed to YouTube channels dedicated to mining. I can tell you with confidence, very FEW miners abuse their cards. These are usually the ones who sit in their parents basement and don't pay for their own electric. The vast majority of miners are ALL about efficiency. The lowest watts used for the highest hash output. And rarely does anyone run their fans at 100% contrary to what you may have heard. It's not very good for profit if your card dies in a few months, it's all about longevity for maximum profits.. it's about keeping the cards as cool as possible so they'll last for many years. That said, consider this.. A GTX 1070 has a stock TDP of 150 watts. With MSI Afterburner the Power Limit can be pushed to 112% for a total of 190 watts in intense gaming sessions. However, when I mined Ethereum, I dialed my power limit down to 60%, which means my cards only consumed 90 watts from the wall at full load. My cards while gaming often reached 70c+ with aggressive fan curves, but stayed comfortably below 55c with a manual 60% fan speed while mining. Not only that, but mining is like putting your automobile on cruise control on the highway. One steady speed for long periods of time versus the constant stop and go traffic when compared to a gaming session. I hope that analogy made sense, it did in my head. Another thing to consider, check the warranty on whatever card you're thinking of purchasing. My second Nvidia GTX 1070 Founders Edition was still under warranty when I sold it.

I set my MSI Afterburner to not run my fans until the GPU reaches 60c, then bump them to 40% until 80c. I've never seen my 1070 above 65c, but if by some miracle they hit 80c, it then jumps to 100%. I've only used these settings recently, but it seems fine. I may tweak it come the summer months.

It should be as easy as right clicking, Documents, for example, and clicking Properties. Then click the Location tab and change the address. I'd back up the files first, just to be safe. But this is what I've done to reduce space taken on my SSD boot drive.

There is one thing to consider. I'm pretty sure the majority of GPU miners significantly dial back the Power Limit on their cards. I think it's a common misconception that miners run their cards as hard as they can possibly go, but that's simply not true. It's more about efficiency and low temps. How low can the Power Limit be set to achieve the highest ratio of hashrate per watts used while maintaining reasonable temps? When I gamed for hours on end, I craved the maximum FPS possible, thus I overclocked the hell out of my 1070, 112% TDP (190 watts). Now that I've begun mining instead of gaming, I find my personal preference is to set the limit to 82% (140 watts). My card's run in the high 50s to lower 60s. I guess it's a matter of opinion, really. Which card would you choose? One ran hard for a few hours each day, or one ran conservatively 24/7.

To many, it's treated as the Bible for miners. People who've been doing Crypto for a while, though, laugh at that. Newbies looking for a quick buck mine what's selling well then bail out. Old timers will mine one coin and hold it for the long term, regardless of its current profitability. I've only been mining for a few weeks now using my single GTX 1070. I feel like I'm in high school again cramming as much information in to my brain as possible in a short period of time. I haven't paid much attention to the AMD side of things, but Nvidia cards do well mining the Equihash algorithm, which happens to be doing extremely well right now. Research ZEC and ZCL for more info. The sad thing is this.. nearly all stores are sold out of GPUs. As soon as they hit the shelves (literal or virtual), they're immediately purchased. Prices are insane due to the high demand of people getting into cryptocurrency. I'm on a Facebook crypto group and people are posting images of literal shopping carts full of 1080TIs. I just purchased a 1080 for a decent price a few hours ago and feel rather fortunate.

That's awesome, I'm glad it's working. For anyone else who may come across this thread using your board (MSI B350 Tomahawk), could you post the model number of your ram kit? It may help someone to know the exact ram kit that is known to work.

I don't know where they got that information, but it's wrong, incomplete, and just confusing as hell. A Ryzen 7 1700 has a base clock of 3GHz. Precision Boost will automatically overclock all cores to 3.2GHz. If temperatures are within safe ranges, it will then boost one or two coolest cores to 3.7GHz with XFR taking those same one or two cores an additional 50MHz to 3.75GHz. It'll cycle between the coolest cores. However, in a full load situation requiring all cores, the most you'll see is 3.2GHz. https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/850358-amd-extended-frequency-range-xfr-explained/

Only for memory overclocking.

Ignoring the issue with ram increasing cpu temperature. I don't understand why you increased the frequency and lowered the voltage. Or is that just 'Auto' voltage reading from within HWMonitor? You're going to need more voltage to do higher frequencies. That said, I wouldn't increase your voltage UNTIL you can get the CPU temperatures straightened out. At 1.2 core voltage, you shouldn't be touching 60c. CPU Core Voltage is directly tied to CPU Package Temperature. All things equal, if 1.25v = 61c, it's not possible for 1.18v to = 71c. Pea Method or Cooked Grain of Rice.

Do you have Ryzen Master open? If not, try running msconfig (Start Menu - Run) and disabling everything in startup. Disable unnecessary, non-Microsoft services and reboot. Gotta be something using the CPU briefly. Mine does that under load, as well. I just ignore it.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that newly created Ryzen processors are capable of hitting the same overclocks, but at much lower voltages. I just can't remember where I saw that. It kinda makes sense that the processor manufacturing process would get better, though. Since you're using Aida64, are you stressing CPU/FPU/Cache together? Stressing 'CPU' alone isn't good enough. And for future reference, people may be interested in knowing your exact memory model number. Knowing what works with each board, especially when overclocking is useful info.

Maybe a more aggressive CPU fan curve option in the bios.

If your system is truly idle, you should be sitting in the low-30s. Assuming your room isn't a furnace. Package Temperature in HWMonitor will be the line to focus on. If you're using Ryzen Master, you should close it before taking idle temperatures. Ryzen Master tends to use about 10% CPU on my system preventing idle. If that's not the problem, open msconfig (Start Menu - Run) and temporarily disable everything in startup. Disable any unnecessary, non-Microsoft services and reboot. What I'm aiming for is a completely idle system. Many complain of high idle temperatures while some background process is being an ass. However, coupled with your high maximum temperatures at such a low voltage, I'm wondering if the cooler was installed incorrectly, somehow. The stock Wraith Spire is a damn good cooler and should be able to handle 1.35v before temperatures become too high. It's generally recommended not to exceed 80c during a stress test like Aida64 (stressing CPU/FPU/Cache). At 1.25v, 65c even seems high.