YubinTheBunny

The platters usually not the part that gets worn out (That's what your program is representing), its the needle that reads and writes that usually wears and dies. So keeping files from getting fragmented can actually keep your HDD running longer as the needle isn't moving around as much trying to find the different parts of the files.

Well, I wouldn't stream in 1080p as the bitrate to stream it without it pixelating is quite high.(you can also adjust your x264 encoding profile to use more resources but it will hammer your cpu) Also for bitrate I would not go over 2300kbps as you want to account for the people that are watching at lower download speeds. So unless your a twtich partner, I would limit the stream to 720p@2100-2300kbps. You can also use this to get a rough estimate https://obsproject.com/estimator

Have you checked what your loads are at those temps? Could there be stuff in the background pinning your processor to 100%? Also try remounting the cooler and check everything is actually run ( eg. pump, fans etc.) Also artic silver 5 have a breaking period so higher temps are normal at the beginning and also sometimes less is more (so try using less TIM). Last resort is to ether A. get a new chip or B. Delid it and put liquid metal in

Not really, I've seen 6600k needing some pretty high voltages to hit clocks. Silicon lottery is butt sometimes. Oh well

Looks like you just lost the silicon lottery really, really hard. Don't think much you can do other then buy a new chip or refund it (if they let you) and get a new one. Even then no one can guarantee you'll get a better chip. Also try lapping the cooler's cold plate and using less paste (that helped with temps quite a bit), but be warned that will void all the warranties.

Well, reading through what you described so far it sounds pretty dead. So I don't think there much you can do other then waiting for the RMA. Make sure to check your other components that they weren't the ones causing the GPU to die. Sometimes a faulty mobo or psu can take parts down.

Pretty much any EVGA card that's not a reference design is a great choice. So ya, that one is good.

I second that.

Did you also account for the overclocks that other users might have done to their gpu?

There will be a difference, but probably less then 2%, so like maybe 1-2fps ish gains?

Coil whine is fine if your worried your card is breaking or something. But like the silicon, coil whine is pretty much up to lottery in terms of who gets it or not.

Getting a better cpu will boost your graphical score, but the gains are pretty minimal to the point where imo it's not worth it. But if you got a cpu with more threads and a higher clock you will get a boost on your overall score (and physics score). But in a gaming scenario the gains would be small in most games.

ROTTR have been know to have problems with nivdia cards I'm pretty sure. But try reinstalling your drivers with DDU and see if that helps. Also hitting 144fps on max settings is a little bit unrealistic on expectations. In some games the even the 1080 can't hit 144fps on max settings @ 1080p. That's why you should check benchmarks before buying, always, so you know what your should be expecting when you get your gpu.

Megahertz? That is how you abbreviate it. (But if you want to be picky the M and H should be caps but whateves)

Yes, an unstable memory clock can cause games to freeze, crash and artifact. So you might have to dial it down until it stops doing that.

Something like cablemod? You can custom config the colours and length. They also have a EU store, cus your in the UK.

The Zotac and the MSI Gaming X should cool similarly. Pick the one that matches your system better or looks better to you.

Unless you plan on water cooling, get the Zotac,

The Intel Extreme Tuning Utility is kinda derpy, the readings are not correct because with my i7 6800k it reads it only having 3 active cores when I clearly have all of them pegged at 100%. Use something like HWmonitor for the readings and temps.

I think it was just to meet the demands of the card at the beginning, as they probably had more 8gb cards ready to sell then the 4gb ones.

It's dual channel, so 2x800 = 1600mhz.

Seems normal to me, my lowest max core temp to highest max core temp have a delta of about 17C at full tilt. So I guess as long you keep the hottest core under control it shouldn't matter too much.

Try it with one stick of ram and if it's fine then try another one and see if that one is a problem. If the ram isn't the problem it might be your motherboard.

They do the same thing really, so use what you want. I just right click on the drive then hit format because I'm lazy.

Well, to hit 4.3 with my 6800k I needed 1.425V so you can try that (as long as you can manage the heat and keep it under 80C). I'm using about 1.45V for my 4.4 right now (it maxes out about 75C with full load). But if you can't hit 4.3 @ 1.425V then you might as well dial back to 4.2 as the heat output is not worth the small gains of 100mhz. (tbh I should dial my cpu back because it runs pretty hot) Once you get the core clock stable you can start to tinker with the ram and ring. But that could mess with your overclocks so I would be careful adjusting those.