YubinTheBunny

The temp decrease imo is not worth the effort or money. Unless you happen to have one of those AIO units laying around from an old project or something.

Yes, the heatpipes that the water run through are made of nickle platted copper. So ya, don't use aluminum. EDIT: Also I'm assuming the op is talking about the EK gaming fluid kits.

If your willing to spend some more cash, you can get a modded top panel replacement for the case with mesh cutouts. Also do the spacer and tape mods to the case to increase the intake and prevent air from splashing back down from the top panel.

I know it probably too late for you to get a new case. As an owner of this case, I'm just gonna say your gonna have a pretty bad time trying to manage the heat. That being said, I can give you a couple tips that I've learned while trying to alleviate air flow problem. Since you don't have a radiator top this won't be as big of a problem but due to the way the top rack is designed there are mounting holes cut to accommodate different sizes. But the issue is that when trying to exhaust air out the top the hot air get splashed back into the case so the solution I did was just to use some electrical tape and taped up all the holes so the hot air only leaves out the top. If you do decided to add a single top exhaust fan tape off the other fan holes. Another issue is the front intakes. The front panel is connected using a ball and joint system and the "ball" part is connected with screws onto the front panel. What you can do is put spacers (Rubber ones would be good because they can prevent vibrations) in between the front panel and the rail for the "ball" to increase the gap making it easier for the fans to pull air in. And if in the future you decided to add a rad top you can just flip the rear fan around as an intake and buy a magnetic air filter. I hope this helps.

That block is actually pretty heavy (heavier then the acrylic ones), but it should be fine since it's sitting vertical so the weight is being distributed better so sagging shouldn't be problem.

You also might want to check if you SO is allergic to anything in the coolant (Assuming you used it).

Also with anything nickle in your build it's advised to not have silver kill coils in your loops as they will react.

Running a 360 and a 240 rad. Both about 35mm. Cpu is clock to 4.4 with about 1.45v and gpu clocks peak at 2152mhz. Getting about 70c on cpu and 58c on gpu when playing something like pubg. Ambient is 26c.

I've seen people do builds with just fittings. I'm sure it'll be fine, unless they're made of lead.

Other then generating a ton of heat, overclocking cache usually is not worth the heat and energy consumption. You might have some gain in some workloads, but the diminishing returns are real. If you do decide to overclock your cache try to keep the voltage below 1.35v unless your cooling solution can handle the dissipation.

That's fine, the drive can operate up to about 70C before it starts throttling. If you're worried you can put a fan to it but it won't really benefit from it and you just add more noise.

So I just replaced my motherboard with an Asus x99a II, and found out it only accepts M.2 PCIe (Woops) So I Got a M.2 sata to PCIe adapter and was wondering 1) Will these actually work. (I mean does it plug and play fairy easily.) 2) How much of a performance hit will I take by using the adapter vsing just plug it right into a M.2 slot that does support Sata? For reference this is what I purchased: https://www.amazon.ca/IOCrest-SY-PEX50073-M-2-PCIe-Adapter/dp/B011D7A4CW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493172563&sr=8-5&keywords=m.2+sata+to+pcie It just converts it to a normal sata III drive I think.

Updated scored with Maxed overclock. Gave the GPU another 10Mhz offset and the memory another 25MHz offset and got ~200 pts higher. Also put down the highest clock my core boosted to. Forgot to do that in last post.

If it's a barb fitting like that one then only the ID really maters.

The G1 is not reference so no (I'm assuming). You'll have to get a block specifically made for the G1. You might be able to hack it on the board like what Gamer's nexus did but it might not work or requires a shim.

Still, look at the manual to make sure that you put the ram in the right slots. There are specific slots your suppose to fill first.

I would take the 240mm. If you going to go with the 120mm you might as well go with a highend aircooler that will outperform it for about the same price. Something like a Noctua NH-d15 or be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3.

Take a drill to your case. Only way really, assuming the only thing not fitting is the actual mounting holes and not the girth and length of the rad.

Well, tbf the loop will need to be cleaned and maintained every 8-10 months and assuming you get lazy and don't drain the loop until 12 months. Your still going to have to take the loop apart anyway so why not water-cool your GPU too so when you do upgrade to the latest and greatest gpu it would just be part of the maintenance procedure?

It could be algae or it could be plasticizer but it's probably both. Do you think you can post a picture of the growth? It's probably both so you might have to replace the tubes after running the loop with 1 part distilled water and 1 part vinegar for a couple hours to kill anything still alive in the loop. And then make sure you get somekind of biocide when you refilled the loop with distilled water.

Yup, that should be fine. And if you could slap a nice OC on to it you should be a-ok.

The closer you can get the ring frequency to your core frequency is usually better (or ideal) and you can gain some performance for certain work loads. But prioritise your core clocks over the ring as the performance gain from a ring oc is pretty minimal for the most part so usually not worth the extra power consumption and heat output.

Return it and get a new one or RMA it. Looks like something is wrong with the gpu hardware wise.

Got a screenshot of this "Glitch"?