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Shyxlol

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  • Posts

    321
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About Shyxlol

  • Birthday Apr 10, 1994

Contact Methods

  • Twitch.tv
    Shyx_lol

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Computers (or some technology in general), FFXIV endgame raiding! RPGs for consoles (FF/Tales of), skiing, snowboarding and much more.
  • Occupation
    Studying

System

  • CPU
    i7 3770k
  • Motherboard
    P8Z77-V Pro
  • RAM
    Corsair LP 1600 2x4
  • GPU
    Gigabyte 670
  • Case
    NZXT Phantom 410
  • Storage
    Samsung Evo 512
  • PSU
    Corsair HX 750
  • Display(s)
    random 1080p 27" Acer
  • Cooling
    Custom Loop
  • Mouse
    Razer Mamba
  1. I got win 7 home premium installed right now but I got a key for win 8.1 pro lying around. I assume if I upgrade from 7, I will get 10 home premium? So I would have to install 8.1 then upgrade to 10 I assume? Sounds like a bother :\ I also have 8.1 running on my macbook. Does anyone know if I can upgrade that one without problems?
  2. Would it be possible to get more information how you got a refund? If that's possible, I'd like to try the same.
  3. Make sure to check whether or not the games you're playing have good SLI support!
  4. Shyxlol - Username The hardline rig https://www.vessel.com/videos/JYZEYDYx0 How do airplanes fly https://www.vessel.com/videos/XPyW3zKpm PS: not the biggest fan of all this sharing. I could share on my twitter account with 0 followers and instagram but it's annoying and honestly does not serve a purpose without any followers.
  5. If it doesn't work out they could just try to sell the module to Samsung/HTC/Apple.
  6. I obviously understand the joke but this is actually pissing me off a lot. I bought a 512GB one because there was a nice deal on it and everything else in comparison was a lot more expensive. I was too concerned about it being useless due to the writes etc. But I wanted that thing to last for a while. I don't have a 970. But a SSD/HDD is supposed to last. This is worse than the 970 situation if you ask me.
  7. That hdmi connector looks way too big to be useful. And I also want cables at different lengths and I might need to charge my phone at the same time I want to listen to music. That and the fact that you can probably buy all of those cables for the same prices as this one make this solution inefficient in my opinion.
  8. Age of the PSU (when did you buy it; how long/much has it been used?), brand, rating etc. and, of course, your GPU, CPU and even CPU overclock matter.
  9. From the article. I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that nvidia put the module in "for nothing" from that. First of all, they released the g-sync module BEFORE we had the new standard aka freesync monitors. That alone made the module necessary for the time being. The only reason it works for that laptop (and most likely some others) is the fact that freesync has been adapted from laptops in the first place.
  10. Haven't read through the whole thread so I hope no one mentioned this: It'd be interesting if they made a version with a thunderbolt port. You would need a small dock from thunderbolt to USB and display port but then your mouse would be usable at least (1 cable).
  11. If it was 30 with shipping and their profit per unit would be 5-10 pounds (which would be very high) it most likely wouldn't be worth the effort to get it back to them. I'd just be open, tell them but also mention that you don't know when have the time to ship it back.
  12. Update: Was already looking for cheap CPUs on ebay and thought: "Hey, might as well give it another try and research other reasons for the red-led." (I have tendencies to get stuck on small things and set my mind and not look for other options). Then I read that Asus MoBos have the CPU-led go red if there's no 8-pin installed. My 8-Pin is really crowded against a radiator so I had to take it out when redoing my loop... Pressing down hard on it once made a somewhat loud "click" noise which made me want to shoot myself! Plugged everything back in and the light is no longer lighting up!!! While that made uber happy, the DRam-led is still red. Any ideas what I should do? I didn't actually touch the Ram when I redid the loop so these are some things I'll try: -check the backside of the MoBo and make sure nothing is shorting out behind the Ram -check all 8 possible positions (4 per stick) -I might have access so another computer. If that one has 8 gigs I should be easily able to borrow a stick. edit: Looks like I rejoiced too early, the Cpu-led is red again
  13. It was stuck the the bottom of the water block, didn't notice and then it dropped down from the block.
  14. Any idea though why the PC didn't boot before I dropped the CPU? I mean, if I cracked the CPU I probably would have gotten the same error I'm getting now. if the CPU was alright before I had the brilliant idea to destroy it, why was I having RAM issues? Ram faulty as well?
  15. Well, I redid my custom loop and then decided to power up my system. (When redoing the loop I didn't remove the CPU block from the MoBo and neither did I remove the MoBo from the case) Aaaaand it didn't start up. It went on, immediately restarted and was stuck - no display output and only the DRAM led on my Asus board lit up. So I went ahead and removed both of my Ram sticks, checked them one by one and in different slots. Nothing changed. I read that DRAM led issues could be related to the cpu. And mine is delid and "naked" (no IHS) so I thought I might have cracked it when reinstalling tubing on the CPU block. So I went ahead and removed the block.... And dropped the CPU that stuck to the bottom of the block. Poor tiny, little thing. Now when I try to start the PC, the CPU led lights up. Is there any other explanation except a broken CPU? Would appreciate any thoughts. Should I just buy a new CPU? CPU and RAM? PS: It's a 1155 board. Update: CPU led off; DRAM led red again!
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