Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

brandishwar

Member
  • Content Count

    948
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

1 Follower

About brandishwar

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas City
  • Occupation
    Software engineer

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7-5820K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Sabertooth X99
  • RAM
    16GB EVGA DDR4-3200
  • GPU
    PNY GTX 770 4GB OC (2 in SLI)
  • Case
    NZXT H440
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 PRO 512 GB
  • PSU
    EVGA Supernova 1050 GS
  • Display(s)
    Toshiba L2400U 32" 1080p television
  • Cooling
    Custom water cooling loop
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Stealth
  • Mouse
    Razer Naga Hex
  • Sound
    Turtle Beach XP500
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro x64

Recent Profile Visitors

1,784 profile views
  1. What photography have you done? If you've typically shot wildlife or landscapes, then you need to transition into shooting people before you even think about doing events. Family gatherings with your own family are a great place to start without a massive amount of pressure and plenty of room to experiment. Once you're comfortable in that arena, then follow @LyondellBasell's suggestion and work with another photographer to get an idea of what all goes into the paid gigs beyond the pressure, client demands, and time constraints. All of this will be for building a portfolio you can use to sell yourself to prospective clients.
  2. Still an amateur, but I've made several purchasing decisions based on my prior experiences, and this is what I've dialed into for now. For the body, I use a D7200. It's 24MP, which is enough for most everyone. Yeah it doesn't have the greatest sensor and isn't the greatest camera, but I was able to find a kit that included the 18-55 VR and 70-300 non-VR lenses for around $800 brand new. I had already previously purchased the 35mm f/1.8 DX and 50mm f/1.8 Nikon primes since I had a D3200 preceding this. I upgraded to the D7200 for better low-light performance and image quality without breaking the bank. Plus it has dual card slots. I'd always had an interest in portraiture, but through a series of photowalks I also developed a huge fascination with wildlife photography. Since I'd found myself at the long-end of the 70-300 most of the time, I found a refurbished VR 70-300 to reduce camera shake, allowing for slower shutter speeds on cloudy days. But that 300mm was still proving to be a problem, so I watched a lot of lens reviews to determine my next lens purchase. I settled on the Sigma 150-600mm "Contemporary". And I've been loving it ever since. It's lighter than the "Sport", both in weight and price, without much sacrifice in image quality. For portraits, though, recall how I said I already had the 35mm f/1.8 DX and 50mm f/1.8 Nikon primes. I'd found myself favoring the 50mm f/1.8 over the 35mm for its tighter view angle. Meaning if I had a full frame camera, I'd be favoring an 85mm prime over the 50mm. And while I wasn't dissatisfied with the image quality I was getting with the 50mm, I wanted better. So recently, as a birthday present to myself, I bought the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 "Art" after finding a great deal on a used lens.
  3. Given you replaced the IHS with an aftermarket one, I'm wondering if your original IHS was the issue. The aftermarket one is likely guaranteed to be flat, meaning guaranteed to get 99+% contact with your heatsink. I'm curious as to what the contact was like with your original IHS and whether lapping it (wet sanding till flat, for those who don't know the term) would've made a similar difference in temperatures. If the contact surface between the IHS and your cooler isn't all that great, your temperatures are going to suffer. I have an i7-5820k, and I've considered lapping it to see if I can get better temperatures (with my triple-360mm radiator setup) since you can't delid it. I'll be checking how flat it is during my next maintenance round.
  4. Then build one. You can find a 2U chassis that supports a full-size GPU via a riser or you can use a half-height card instead. If you insist on a full-size GPU, then find a 3U or 4U chassis. There are inexpensive chassis available. Then look around at various used hardware options. 4U chassis will support most any hardware and PSU on the shelf, while 2U and 3U chassis may limit your options - especially since most 2U chassis won't leave room for GPUs with a power connector. If you have spare hardware laying around, this is a good way to put that to use.
  5. I think even a 120mm cooler wouldn't work for most mid-tower chassis, as expansion slots are 20mm wide, and there are only 7 in a mid-tower chassis. So you'd need one that uses a 92mm fan, such as the CoolerMaster TX3.
  6. ISO is one part of the "exposure triangle". If you change the ISO, you need to change the shutter speed and/or aperture to compensate. So if you go from ISO 100 to 400, which makes the sensor 4x as sensitive to light, you need to either drop your shutter speed by 1/4th (going from 1/1000 to 1/250, for example) or drop your aperture by 4 stops, or some combination therein.
  7. FiberStore is where I've bought most of my fiber transceivers and cables for my home network. Fiber patch cables are less bulky than Cat5E cable for the indoor-rated ones, and you can combine multiple fiber lines into one trunk cable. A lot of the fiber patch cable available today can support some really tight bend radii as well. Fiber not only uses less power, but it's also ultra-low latency even across long distances - OM4 can support up to 400m without breaking a sweat.
  8. MikroTik's offerings are a great value for the money. I have the CRS317, which I bought to replace the Quanta LB6M for my 10GbE network.
  9. What is your CPU usage like on the server, especially when watching videos from Plex? That I think is the first question to ask before you take on the downtime that'll go with the upgrade. If all your Plex files are H.265, then the CPU encoding is useless since Plex shouldn't be re-encoding the files when serving them up on your home network unless it's serving the files to a device that doesn't support H.265, in which case it'll encode to a supported format, again making the hardware encoding useless. If you're watching them remotely, then it'll probably remaster the file to a smaller bitrate and resolution, but then the question is what CPU usage looks like. If the existing CPU can keep up without issue and CPU usage isn't looking insane when doing so, then the upgrade isn't all that necessary. Even then, your CPU usage is likely to not change much with the upgrade, and if your existing hardware can keep up without issue, why upgrade? Same with memory usage. If you had another 32GB at the ready to install into the new mainboard, then I'd say to do the upgrade to get the extra RAM. Neither processor supports quad-channel, or that'd sway me to say "upgrade" without hesitation. As others have mentioned, having ECC in a home environment isn't critical. But since you're going from 32GB DDR3 to 32GB DDR4, you're not seeing a significant gain here. My suggestion would be to set the 7700K aside and use it as a virtualization server or some other role instead. Replacing your existing server with the 7700k would net better performance, but is it performance you'd actually notice given your current server's roles? Not likely. Instead use the 7700k hardware as a virtualization server or an experimental system. You could even use it to offload Plex or the DVR onto a separate system. Then only if you get the extra RAM to max out what the board allows should you make it a primary server.
  10. That's definitely a good point. I don't shoot anything macro (right now), but I can see where the grip would get in the way when shooting in landscape alignment. I shoot wildlife and portraits, some landscapes, so having the grip makes shooting in portrait orientation much, much easier.
  11. Yeah I've got the same one, using it with the the D7200. Works like a charm. Zero issues. Seems pretty well built as well. Can't complain.
  12. True, but for $420 for everything that kit provides, that's a great value given everything it includes.
  13. In what games are you noticing frame-dips and/or input lag? And what settings are you using on those games? Is this something that also started recently with those games? Your GPU is going to be fine for probably quite a while still. A friend has a GTX 980 (not the Ti) and is still happily chugging along from what I've heard. Are you running at stock speed/turbo, or have you also tried overclocking your CPU? Consider that first (upgrading your cooling solution if necessary) to see how much you can squeeze out of your system before replacing your CPU. Since if your current mainboard doesn't support third-gen Ryzen with just a BIOS upgrade, you'll need to replace both. So before jumping down that road - and the cost that comes with it - see what more you can squeeze out of what you've got. Also you say you have 3000MHz RAM, but is it actually running at 3000MHz as well? If not, do that first as well and see if your performance improves enough.
  14. The MC1s don't support PoE directly. There are a few ways to do that, though. You can use PoE splitters at each MC1 with a PoE-capable switch providing the power. But the 802.3af standard (which governs power-over-Ethernet) only supports up to 15W per line. Add in the 48V to 5V voltage conversion, and you're losing a little power in that. 802.3at+, however, supports about 25W, but you're still going to lose some of that to voltage conversion using a splitter. So not really worth it, especially since the splitters are going to add about $20 per unit to the cost. An alternative is off-standard PoE device pairs: an injector on one end, and a splitter on the other. But if you're not going to be too far from the switch, that is overkill. Plus I don't think you're going to find any that will support the wattage you need. You're better off just using a good 5V power supply to power all of these. To allow for overhead, make sure it can supply 60A (5A per board) at 5V.
  15. Those looks like the pull-out shelf I have in my kitchen for the pots and pans. I found something similar looking at IKEA's site: KOMPLEMENT pull-out tray shelf. Googling "pull out tray shelf" (without quotes) finds similar options.
×