Ninety1Nine

So, Did it work?

I thought I had a stable graphics overclock, but when I turned that off, GTAV stopped crashing. Since then, I have had several multi-hour sessions without a crash. Before that I was having trouble playing for longer than 10 minutes.

To sum up: RAID is better when used with a smaller number of drives with lower capacity. Get into the higher numbers and you are risking data loss because of the time to rebuild an array. Same with doing RAID with an alongside backup. If it takes longer to do the backup, larger window for failure.

I have both. The 360 controller is a good choice unless you want the different feel of the One controller. The 360 has a 9ft. cable built in where the One doesn't even come with a cable. Instead you will have to purchase a cable, where you can choose how long you want the cable. Also, its a micro-USB connector. There isn't a wireless dongle to use the One controller wirelessly with a PC yet.

Ninety1Nine Favorite Videos: Insane Storage... 5k...

I have the same thing with my Corsair 1500v2. If my mic is activated (by a game or teamspeak) I hear it through the headset, otherwise its not present. Using the inline mute button makes it slightly louder as well. I would love to know how to fix this.

I picked up a used HP dual core for <$100US and put Windows Server 2012 R2 on it. I have it set up as an FTP, web, and occaisionally, a game server. The only thing the computer was missing was Hyper-V support on the motherboard, this shouldn't affect you. Unless you plan on doing something more, I don't think would need anything that powerful. Mine runs MC and other servers for my friends and I just fine.

I have 3 screens and my Post screen doesn't show up on my center #2 monitor. Before I moved, it showed up on screen #1 (left), after I moved my computer it started showing up on my #3 screen. Try booting with different combinations of screens plugged in. Other than that, the only solution I know of is to swap the positions of the displays themselves. Which I am guessing is not desirable.

Do you have OpenGL enabled iin MC?

Basically what everyone else said about interference, but this shouldn't be happening. You need a new microwave. That one has a leak, and could be messing up more than your WiFi signal.

Sometimes they include this in the config file. In most games this is a "user.ini" or "user.cfg" file. Start looking for that (should be able to open in notepad) and then do a search for sensitivity (this part might take a while). However, while looking for it myself, I found that there are multiple config files that you will have to edit. This is due to cloud saving and the such. This forum post here should help with that: http://steamcommunity.com/app/43110/discussions/0/846958223060476459/

The data is still there, but now the computer probably sees it as two identical drives. You cannot recreate the mirrored drive without it deleting all the data. The easiest way to fix: (this is considering you are using a hardware RAID) Plug in one of the mirrored drives and an empty spare drive that will not be used in the mirror. Copy all the data over. Remove your spare drive completely from the system (helps prevent accidental deletions). Put both of your original drives back in and recreate the mirrored RAID1. Put your spare drive back into the system and copy the data to the RAID1. If it is possible to recreate a mirror without deleting the drives, please enlighten us.

Definately like the design thought put into this phone compared to other devices on the android side.

The Tp-Link Archer C7 is a nice AC router, and it is $95USD vs. Asus's RT-68u that is $200USD. Not sure how much they are over in Australia though.

Really the only time you would notice a lower latency (125Mhz or 8ms) would be if you put everything on the highest latency setting. Just putting one thing on its slowest setting wouldn't be noticeable. There really isn't a benefit to change it except in a rare situtation. If the rest of your system has a higher latency and you want to try to cut down where you can.

What speeds are you paying for?

1. Depending on what speed of internet your Aunt is paying for, they probably gave her an overkill modem. Most of the modems from Motorola and others have a speed rating right on the box or in the description. For Example: The Motorola SURFboard SB5101U Is rated for 38 Mbps Down/30Mbps Up, perfect for the average connection. 2. Splitters can be quite touchy. I have one setup, and still have no idea how I got it to work. I would try to check to make sure there aren't any other splitters ahead of yours in the line. 3. Not sure how the do their modems, does it work without the splitter? Depending on what she is paying for and how much that router/modem is, I would just go with the modem mentioned above. Or even a step up from that if her internet is faster than 38/30.

Need more info. What Wi-Fi standard does your router use? Are you looking for a USB adapter? Or a PCI card? Preemptive suggestion: I have an Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 plus Bluetooth Adapter US Amazon Currently $50USD on Amazon Awesome piece of hardware and is PnP at least on Windows 8. One thing to note however, there is a problem in one of the batches that makes bluetooth not work. Problem and solution noted here: Intel Forums

I would go ahead and put the power limit and temperature limit to the max, otherwise you aren't taking advantage of that +12 mV. It will also help with some stability if you overclock further. I have an EVGA 770 with ACX cooling and it doesn't go above 80C unless something other than the card is not right (e.g. High ambient temps, or a fan not speeding up to compensate). Considering you have a better cooler than I do, it should be even less of a problem for you.

If VT-d has anything to do with Hyper-V like I think it does, you won't benefit from it unless you want to run virtual machines.

I have a MSI 660ti PE running right now and I used to use a 640 in the PCI-E 2.0 x4 slot. I also had a XFX AMD 5600 series card running in it at one point before I sold it. Keep in mind this was a x16 lane at x4 speed and not SLI'd.

Completely possible. I upgraded to a 770 from a 660ti. I have the 770 running my middle screen, and the 660ti in a PCI-E 2.0 x4 slot running my 2 side screens as well as doing PhysX. It's just a setting in the NVIDIA Control panel. A 670 is a bit overkill for just PhysX though. If you want to get some money back, I used to have a dedicated 640 for PhysX and the GPU utilization on it was pretty low while still keeping my FPS up above 60. Get one used though, got mine for half the price, and works just as great. I say, go for it. EDIT: How big is your PSU? I have mine running without any extra drivers.

If a RAID1 array gets seperate for some reason including a drive fail, they can function as individual drives as if nothing happened. The problem comes when you want to put them back together, you may have to format them. Source: Had this happen to me where a RAID1 wasn't recognized by the OS (becuase I installed in AHCI mode by accident), so It split the drives into two seperate drives with identical data on both even though the controller still had them as a single RAID1. They were still completely usable and I was able to reinstall windows on my SSD with the MoBo back in RAID mode and they were back as one drive.

I have been looking around for an AC PCIE wifi card myself and recently found this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKQN2KK/ref=gno_cart_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER It's only $50 In the US and would be upgradeable later by just swapping out the mSATA card. I have just never had a card like this and don't know how well it would work. Anyone have any experience with these?

It could work, what would help is if you made your case completely positive pressured. Another factor would be how far you overclock it, or you can be weird and underclock it.