iamdarkyoshi

Ehh I'd just run regular enterprise. It feels like what pro was supposed to be Stuff is broken in LTSC with the removal of basically all uwp applications

They likely found a bios dump from another machine online and flashed it using an SPI programmer. The BIOS chip holds all that info, and I suppose they found a dump of another machine which had those values stripped from it. I've had to do repairs like this at the store I work at (on the same model laptop too). Sadly all I was able to do was make the machine have the IDs from another machine, since that's what the dump of the BIOS chip contained. Best bet for activation would probably be to use the windows 7 key off a machine you no longer use anymore, since the key stored in your BIOS is gone.

Step down (buck) converters generally need a volt or two higher than their output, and 6V to 5V is barely enough for even the higher end buck converters. Not to mention, the batteries will drain below 6V and cause more issues. I'd go for a buck/boost converter, since it accepts above and below the desired output voltage, so as the batteries drain down to like 4V or lower, it'll still be kicking out 5V. One thing I'd look into though is to see if you can find one with a fixed 5V output instead of a variable one. I'd expect them to run a bit more stable.

In theory, I'd need a BIOS dump from the same series machine, and it'd work again. Never really bothered with it

Update: It turns out I have a ripoff HDD. Inside was a recertified WD black... Spent about 5 hours getting my stupid ass computer to write the backwards compatibility partition onto it. But it works now!

I've tried 10 different ones from the list, including halo. All games play fine on my OG unit, but it only has component video

Haven't been able to find a definitive answer to this yet. I've got a trinity xbox 360 slim. It was a virgin when I got it, tamper seal intact. I'm trying to use it to play original xbox games on the projector in my bedroom, but I'm just getting the following message: Everyone seems to be saying that I need an OEM HDD with that special partition on it. Is mine OEM? Removing the HDD gives this error: Not being a console gamer, I'm kinda at a loss. What's going on here? The main menu shows the title of the disc fine.

I suppose its possible, but I've never seen it happen, and I've been doing laptop repair for years now. Most DDR3L only systems will actually still work with DDR3, though some don't I've got the same NUC here and mine had a corrupt BIOS chip...

It should not be running that low, unless it only sometimes goes to 500mhz. If its stuck on 500mhz, try updating your BIOS. Download the bios update from their website, extract the contents to a freshly fat32 formatted USB drive, and then open the easyflash utiliy in the BIOS. Point it to the bios update file you downloaded and you should be good to go. If it still doesn't fix it, try downloading chipset and power management related drivers from the same page you got the BIOS update from.

Yeah, just source 12V off the disk drive header, it'll be able to power the fans you want to power I would suggest trying to get the original fans working though, and get the ductwork in place to move air through the heatsinks horizontally. I believe the middle pin is ground and the two outer pins are the fan positives, but don't quote me on that

Just noise The console would probably last longer since it'll be well cooled

Something must have gone up in smoke, look for small black components with a hole in the top. Which board revision? My two consoles are Jasper and Trinity. If you're unable to find any, you may need to wire the fans to a voltage rail inside but they'll run at a set speed.

Pretty much exactly what I would have done. The 50mA difference on the fan really shouldn't be an issue. Worst I could see happening is it runs a tad warmer and the fan controller increases the speed to compensate, assuming it has speed control. My guess is someone slid it into a rack and there was a cable behind it like a power cable and it dented the fan in. Dunno. Either way it sounds like it's back up and running, overnight test should give us an answer as to if it survived.

2U on the spec page. http://www.istarusa.com/en/istarusa/products.php?model=MAGE212U40-PCI-E It makes sense, 1U servers use 40mm fans, 2U uses 80mm fans, which is what is inside a standard ATX PSU. As for inspecting the PCB for damage, it sounds like a good idea. I have had a gateway PSU that took a fall and the transformer broke off the board.

Not 100% sure on the last one. If a 1U server is a little thicker than a 40mm fan, then a 2U should be a little thicker than an 80mm fan, which looks to be the case here. I'd definitely agree with the fan replacement route though, Looks to be an NMB 12v 300mA fan, which should be super easy to find a replacement for if OP is comfortable doing a fan swap.

Only way to get past activation lock is to go to the store with a proof of purchase. They'll reset the phone's icloud ownership in like 5 minutes. Its to keep people from stealing them.

I work in a PC repair shop and honestly every surface device ever released is complete and utter garbage. They are so anti-repair, it makes apple look good. Seriously, even the bottom cover for the keyboard on the 2 in 1 surface laptop thing is glued on. I'd personally pick up dell's ryzen 2 in 1. Best buy has it for 500$ right now and it's fast enough to do basic gaming

They've gotten much better over the years but they're still not perfect. I'd throw a screenaaver on it and use less contrasting UI elements on windows and chrome and it should be fine. Maybe see if there's any sort of extended warranty plan you can get with it

It might work, but the angle may be too steep for the case to close

Performance is identical. All the adapter is doing is adapting one physical standard to another, the electrical standard, sata, is still the same. As for height, this was the most common sized SSD, so I just rolled with it I already had the SSD on hand, anyway