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NickTheMajin

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  • Content Count

    1,438
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About NickTheMajin

  • Title
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 1992-10-24

Profile Information

  • Occupation
    System Designer Magnolia HIFI

System

  • CPU
    5930k
  • Motherboard
    Asux X99 Deluxe
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4
  • GPU
    Gigabyte 1080ti
  • Case
    Black/White H440
  • Storage
    1TB 960pro SSD
  • PSU
    Coolermaster v750
  • Display(s)
    LG 65in OLED
  • Cooling
    H100i
  • Keyboard
    Blackwidow Chroma
  • Mouse
    Razer Naga
  • Sound
    Martin Logan Theos Electrostatic Speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 and Mac

Recent Profile Visitors

1,941 profile views
  1. I have two systems plugged into my PC. One that goes out to my surround sound for my media room that includes rotel separates and Martin logan electrostats over HDMI. The other goes to another receiver dedicated to my PC speakers. A pair of Logan bookshelves and a sonance sub over optical. For whatever reason, only during gaming, I get a screeching sound out of my speakers and subwoofer. The screeching sound seems to increase and decrease due to the frame rate of the game I’m playing even with the volume all the way down. I can remove this screeching by either unplugging the subwoofer or by turning off the game. So I think I’ve at least narrowed down the sub. I have a subwoofer cable with grounding forks that I’m using to no avail. I’m on the same power strip as the PC and receiver. It seems like the coil whine from my PC is leaking into my speakers but only with the sub plugged in. Any ideas?
  2. I have three Martin Logan electrostat speakers in my system for my front stage. Roughly $25,000 worth of audio in my living room. https://imgur.com/gallery/XtvOzq6
  3. Not really. 1. The receiver will be in the basement most likely, because that is most likely where the speaker wires were run. How are you going to control what is playing? Do you have Android or iPhone. If Android you are out of luck because at that point bluetooth is your only option and that isn't going to reach the basement. If iPhone at least you can airplay, but even that will be spotty depending on where you are in the house. 2. With a surround receiver, the only way you will get sound to every room will be in multi channel stereo. This will only work if you want every room to play the same thing at the same volume. This might sound good, but in practice this sucks, especially if its not just you in the house. One way around this is to install volume knobs in each room, but these require more wires to be run and if the walls are already up that is not going to happen. And even then, say you go to start playing something and there is a speaker in someone's room who doesn't want to hear it. They then have to get up and manually lower the volume on the knob. You also probably want to play different things in different rooms. 3. Surround receivers require a screen for setup because receivers are primarily for surround sound. Not multi room audio.
  4. I'm a custom integrator so what TC wants to do is literally my bread and butter.
  5. Those are all AVRs that, at most, have two zones and almost all of them require a screen to set them up. TC isn't going to find what he wants here. TC, you need to find where the speaker wires go. They are definitely not wireless speakers. They should have been run to one central location. Buy a multi room amplifier not a receiver. You then need to choose a platform with which to control everything. The old school way was analog volum controls in every room. We don't use those anymore. Pick something like Sonos, Bose, Heos, etc as the platform with which to control each room. Example, if you want to use Sonos you buy one sonos connect per zone. (So if you have a speaker in your bedroom and in your bathroom and you want independent control over each room you buy two sonos connects). There really is no good way to do it cheaply.
  6. https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/apples-new-thing-ipod.500/ Some amazing gems to be found in there. Crazy to think how wrong many of these people were.
  7. It really depends on length. Anything over 15ft expect to pay a lot for the cable. If you need to go more than 25ft its realistic you'll be looking at hundreds if you want 4k HDR 4:4:4. Below 15ft, just get any high speed cable.
  8. I'm going to throw a few different options based on what kind of sound you're looking for in the $300-500 mark. V-Moda Crossfade 2 Codex Editions: Warm, good bass, good balance into the mids and highs but a relatively small soundstage. Fun headphones to listen to and extremely comfortable. Wireless or wired Bowers and Wilkins PX: Bright. Awesome clarity, excellent detail, weaker bass but makes up for it with a much larger sound stage. Wireless or wired. Best build quality. Most iconic brand of the bunch by far known for their speakers that go into the tens of thousands of dollars. Sennheiser HD 660: Best sound stage of the bunch. Open back so no using these outside or portably but you will not beat the soundstage or comfort of these guys (Or any of Sennheiser's open back headphones). These guys are only wired and in my opinion require separate amplification (IE not just a headphone jack). You'll get a lot of recommendations for Audiotecnica headphones but I'd stay away from Audiotecnica personally. They're widely recommended because they're usually babies first foray into audiophile teritory. Most of the people recommending Audiotecnica cans will not have heard of the better and more iconic brands out there like Bowers and Wilkins. A couple non audiophile hyper popular youtubers made reviews on them and made them internet famous but they're just one step above a headphone like beats in my opinion. Not bad but there is better out there.
  9. Full volume is definitely way too loud. If you care about your hearing get used to 60-65% volume if you listen for long periods of time. Be alert when going into noisy areas like Concerts or Clubs. I'm an audio dealer so I know the struggle. I carry ear plugs with me at all times so when I do two channel and theater demos I can put them in. Past few years movie theaters have gotten louder and louder so I tend to wear ear plugs at the movie theater as well (You would be amazed at how loud movie theaters can get. Way above the threshold of when damage can begin to occur). Concerts and clubs are another area where you should be wearing ear plugs. I know it sucks but its worth it in the end. My degree is in audiology and I I interned at a hearing clinic while I was in school. Its unbelievable how many people are damaging their hearing without realizing it and hearing aids are not the same as your natural born hearing.
  10. Its a topic that is way too subjective. Example many people consider "Hifi" to be a pair of $200 headphones and a headphone amp while someone else wouldn't consider any pair of headphones to be hifi. My dream two channel setup would be a pair of Martin Logan Renaissance speakers run off a McIntosh MC462 stereo amp with a thunder audioquest powercord. Alas I don't think the majority of Linustechtips viewers would get anything out of because that setup costs $50,000.
  11. Denon are known for their receivers but stay away from their Speakers. I wouldn't even look at their power amps to be honest. Denon and Marantz are receiver companies now. That's it. I'd also stay away from Klipsch at this price range. They make a few good speakers all north of $2000. Everything cheaper feels it. They're nothing like they used to be with the exception of their flagship horns. In that price range I'd look at these guys https://www.definitivetechnology.com/products/demand-d7 Stretching it a bit you can look at these https://www.amazon.com/MartinLogan-LX16-Piano-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B0061LG5H4 (Keep in mind these are sold as each so it's actually around $500 for two) To put things into perspective, my front three speakers cost almost $10,000 and I use four of those LX16 speakers as surrounds without issue. That's how good they are.
  12. Getting flickering red dots over any black image sent to my TV from my PC and PS4. My oppo bluray player is fine. All three are connected via HDMI to my receiver with one HDMI going from the receiver to the TV. The dots don’t always appear and sometimes go away if I unplug the cable and replug it in. But occasionally they don’t go away at all. Only seems to happen to my PC and PS4. The Oppo is unaffected. I initially thought it was the HDMI cables but I swapped them and am still having the issues. I’ve tried different ports on the receiver and even plugged the PC into a known working hdmi port (the one the bluray player was plugged into) and still got the dots. Not sure where I should began my troubleshooting. I don’t think it’s the AVR or the cables since both of those have been swapped.
  13. NickTheMajin

    Audio Setups

    Home Theater: Martin Logan Theos Electrostats pair Martin Logan Electromotion ESL Center Channel Martin Logan Motion 15, two pairs for surround and back surrounds Martin Logan Motion 2is, pair for atmos SVS SB 16 Ultra subwoofer Marantz 7011 Receiver and a Rotel RB 1552 power amp All speaker wire is Audioquest rocket series with Rocket 44 used for the Theos's Pics in my sig but I have to update it because I haven't taken pictures since I got my center channel speaker and rotel amp yet For headphones I have: V Moda Crossfade 2 Codecs Sennheiser HD558s Bowers and wilkins P7s.
  14. I would personally do Lutron Caseta over phillips hue. You do not want to replace bulbs if your goal is whole home. Bulbs are a pain in the ass. They always have to be fed power and the second the switch is flipped off, the light ceases to work. You may think thats fine, but you will have friends over and they will inevitably turn your lights off. You will also realize very early on that you miss actually being able to touch a light switch. Smart stuff is great, but often times you will want to walk in, press a button and have the lights turn on. Philips sells switches you can sticky onto your wall but they look stupid when you place them right next to a real light switch that can't be switched off because it would remove all your smart features. Don't do hue. Replace the switch and circumvent all these problems. Lighting aside, you really want to look at what platform you want to base your smart home on. There are tons. If you have the coin investing in something like Savant or Control 4 is awesome. You really want to integrate your TVs into your smart home if possible. A platform like Savant can not only control your lights but also your TV, cable box, bluray player, game console and everything else connected to your TV. You can quite literally press one button that will dim your lights, turn your receiver to 60%, turn the TV on, and tune your cable box to your favorite channel. This is awesome, but expensive. You need to figure out how much money you want to spend on this. Savant isn't cheap. It'll start at $1000 for the host and a remote and it requires professional install. Depending on coin, if you really want to get into it, distributed audio is absolutely amazing. If you own the home, in ceiling speakers throughout the house is one of the coolest things you can do. Four speakers in the kitchen, single stereo speakers in the hallways, steam proof speakers in the bathrooms all fed to a single amp at a rack somewhere in the house utilizing something like Sonos or Heos for sources is awesome. This can be integrated into a Savant or Control 4 system easily and works really really well. You can have a command set so pressing a button upon entering the house turns on some lights and automatically starts a radio station from sirius, spotify, apple music or whatever at 30% volume. Real gentlemen look at shades too. Motorized shades can be integrated into a smart home and integrated into scenes so not only does the control system control your TV and lights but can also bring your shades down if you're watching a movie during the day. Or can be set to slowly open as dawn breaks so you wake up naturally from the sun coming through the windows. Once you get started this can be as cheap or expensive as you want it to be.
  15. I'm an audio dealer so I'll only consider products I sell because of discounts and we don't carry Emotiva. My showroom just doesn't have any Class D amps on display aside from the riff raff from Pioneer and I'd never judge what a class D Rotel would sound like based on Pioneer. Brands I can access for power amps are Denon/Marantz, Rotel, Arcam and McIntosh. For speakers we carry Martin Logan, Bowers and Wilkins, Def Tech, Kef, SVS, ELAC, Sonance and the higher end Klipsch horns. Can probably guess where I work pretty easily now. You answered my question though, that would bug the hell out of me. One of the things I've noticed listening to tons of Electrostat setups is how transparent they are. Any little change in the system becomes audible through them for better or for worse. As sublime as they are most of the time, they highlight every imperfection in the system.
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